F-53 chassis

Edward 75 wrote:
Do you have to jack the motor home up or can you change the sway bar holes without jacking it up. Would like to change front and see if it helps any at all and then maybe do the rear. Thanks Joe

No jacking required. Open link on my post on the first page of this thread. I have pictures of completed job and some instructions.

Do you have to jack the motor home up or can you change the sway bar holes without jacking it up. Would like to change front and see if it helps any at all and then maybe do the rear. Thanks Joe

chuckftboy wrote:
I feel lucky. I have a F-53 and the ride is really good. No sway, not even when a semi passes me. I did the cheap handling fix on the front only but didn't notice a whole lot of difference. I personally don't think it could be any better.

Did exactly the same thing. But saw a large improvement!

I feel lucky. I have a F-53 and the ride is really good. No sway, not even when a semi passes me. I did the cheap handling fix on the front only but didn't notice a whole lot of difference. I personally don't think it could be any better.

The first thing I did to my 2012 fleetwood terra was the cheap handling fix. It made a world of difference in handling but the coach felt like it was going to explode over expansion joints. So I changed the bill steins to konis, and things got better. Then I added a safety steer, and things got a little better. Then I added sumosprings to the front and back. Almost all of the sway is gone now. I actually changed the chf back on the front axle to let the sumosprings handle the sway. After about 500 dollars of insulation in the dog box and under the dash I actually have a nice riding relatively quite coach. Nothing like the day I drove it home, which was the scariest ride of my life!

I made my own rear trac bar for $80.00. Took some bolts out of the rear end and made a template. Took it to a metal shop and they cut it out and drilled the holes. I used 1/4 steel. I found a bracket that worked at the big truck shop when I had a alignment done. For the bar, I went to tractor supply.

blknomad wrote:
Traded my 30ft winney Workhorse so I can probably load it to my liking. Will probably lower the air 10lbs in all the tires and DW and I have always traveled light. Never have put more than a 1\4 tank of water and keep tanks dumped regularly. Believe me I will not throw money at it. Just wanted some insight on the F-53

blknomad,
Roger on the tire pressure Sir. I forgot to mention in my previous post that, I had tires installed at a Big-O and they, being not all that bright, immediately zapped them all to 110 Psi, just because it said it on the sidewalls. It not only handled like it was on marbles but, even rode harder than it did before. So, I went to the tire chart of the maker of the tires and, based on my weights, front and back, their chart didn't even go low enough to accommodate my weights. I ended up running 70 in the front and 75 each in the back. Waaaaaaaaay better ride and handling. Not the best but, way better.
Good luck.
Scott

Traded my 30ft winney Workhorse so I can probably load it to my liking. Will probably lower the air 10lbs in all the tires and DW and I have always traveled light. Never have put more than a 1\4 tank of water and keep tanks dumped regularly. Believe me I will not throw money at it. Just wanted some insight on the F-53

You will probably want to load it forward not back to get the best handling. In my 30 it was clear there was not enough weight to compress the springs. I went the whole way and added a Kelderman air ride.

We just completed this fix on our chassis, DH did both front and rear. Has driven it once and said it made a world of difference and he wished he would have know about it 3 years ago when we purchased our coach. He said the reduction in the sway was amazing with this done. So -- maybe you want to do the front and rear and then see if you need anything else.