Ford Spark Plug Problems?

A couple of new things to pass along.

The old spark plug is marked AGSF22WM. The new plugs from the dealer are marked the same. The box is marked SP-479 AGSF22WM. On the side of the box is says "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT". The plugs fit a 5/8" socket. To get the old plug out, I used a 5/8" spark plug socket with a 3" extension and a 3/8" to 3/8" swivel to increase the height so I could get the ratchet on. I used the handyman's friend (duct tape) to tie the spark plug socket to the extension so I wouldn't lose it if it got stuck on the plug. This is the new spark plug socket I ordered. Fingers crossed that it isn't too long and the socket wall is thin enough. This is the gap tool I ordered. Never had one like this before, but it got good reviews.

I only bought one ignition coil from the dealer as their price was much higher at $75.75 than what I had seen online. The old coil is marked 1L2U-12A366-AA. The Motorcraft plastic bag the new coil came in is marked DG-508 3W7Z-12029-AA and the UPC on is 031508450622. I found a listing for this set of numbers, including the UPC, on Summit Racing for $44.97. Summit Racing claims that these are OEM items and fingers crossed that these arrive in the same Motorcraft packaging that I got from the dealer.

The spark plugs are 5/8", not 13/16". I didn't have any trouble just using the regular 5/8 spark plug socket and extension that I already had. The real trouble is just getting access to the middle plugs on the passenger side. Blow out the spark plug recess before you loosen it, loosen it a little and then blow it out again before you finish removing it.

Here's the pic for that tool and the dimensional sketch
A = 3/8" Drive Size (and I think that's for clarification, surely it's 3/8" internal/female, not as pictured. Then B is not called out in the dimensions, so I can't tell if it's the outside diameter of the socket "shell" or the hex size of the plug, which they show as 13/16". The C = 5-7/8" and I take it the knurled surface lets us start and remove the plug by gripping it with our fingers.

Am I right about all this? Is the outside diameter ("B"?) meant to fit so closely that the plug is forced to be in alignment with its threaded hole?

I have yet to see a V10 plug. I would have thought they'd be 5/8" hex, but the Snap-On link indicates 13/16". Hmmm

I'm at 5" with my 13/16" (Penncraft! Anybody got one of those?) plug socket and a 3" 3/8 extension. At $70 for the Snap-On socket, I'll epoxy my two together and if I can't separate them later, Oh-Well.

j-d, the Snap-On part number for the socket S9719KA. It doesn't look like the one in your photo but I might be wrong. Yes it's expensive, but it solves two problems. The first is cross threading, because you use the socket to start the plug and you can feel it. The second problem is if you get unlucky, and the shorty socket gets jammed in the head, that 70 bucks is nothing compared to the nightmare of trying to get that socket out. The Snap-On guy said it was developed with the V10 in mind, but can be used for others also. Good luck with whatever you do but if you get that socket your gonna love it. Makes the job just a bit more safe and easy, but the whole thing is not an easy job.

CloudDriver,

You can get OEM coils for around $40 online. If I recall correctly that's about half the price from the stealer.

In case someone is interested - - I have a 2001 E450, and elected to install the Timesert steel spark plug thread inserts. It took me a couple of days, with the help of one of my sons. There is a considerable difference between the different thread kits available for this job - - so do your research carefully.

The van chassis is a sort of booger for this operation. You do about half the cylinders from the front, and about half from the doghouse side.

Absolutely critical is having both intake and exhaust valves CLOSED when you do the insert placement in one of the cylinders. If you hit a valve with the tooling, you get to remove THAT cylinder head to make repairs. I bought a little optical/TV type viewer snake to make sure I could see the valves.

I rigged up a small piece of plastic tubing to clean up any shavings or junk from the cylinder after doing the insert.

Threads were almost non-existent in the head - - don't know how they could have built it like that. Not surprised they would blow out or easily strip.

Paid around four hundred bucks for the Timesert installation kit (well designed and built) and sold it after the job for three hundred.

It helps to have some machine tool type of experience before trying this kind of job. Not everyone will find it a breeze.

oldusedbear

@T18: I didn't see a specific "Ford Two Valve Modular Spark Plug Socket" in Snap-On's online catalog. They did show this jewel (at a jewel price of $73! Your tip to HAND START the new plugs is totally telling. That seems to be where the real trouble can start.
@CloudDriver: I'd like to see the Socket you ordered. That and the Gap Gauge. Thought till now that a good 5/8" six point thin wall plug socket with its foam insert in good shape, will do this job. Any search I've done for "Ford Spark Plug Socket" etc. has led to "F150" and the 9/16" socket for plugs in Three Valve engines.
Tip a friend gave me was to use two drive size adapters, as a very short extension. Ratchet and Socket are 3/8" so Ratchet to 3/8==>1/2 then 1/2==>3/8 to Socket. Provides a little over an inch of extension and they don't sell 'em that short.
I use those little Harbor Fright 3-gallon "Pancake" compressors. That's plural because two have failed so far. GREAT for bike tires and my HF 18-gauge nailer/stapler. GOOD for blowing parts out and for Car Tires. Only FAIR for RV tires. That 100-PSI rating is marginal for getting a tire up to 80. A new compressor's supposed to be run 30-mics at no load as break-in. If you get a new one, so that, and if nothing else, run it up till it shuts off at 100 and park it. Check gauges periodically. A good, new one, will hold all 100 for weeks. If it doesn't, get them to give you another one. I go back because $40 on sale for about three years of use gives me something I can carry that fits in my storage compartment.

j-d wrote:

timmac wrote:
...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part...

True, but no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford. Pickups, Class A chassis, probably a bunch of cars, but not vans, cutaway E-Series chassis, etc.

This whole spark plug thing didn't play well at Ford:

1. Two Valve without enough threads, three model years

2. Two Valve with enough but machined wrong, three model years

3. Three Valve with a new spark plug problem, three more model years

But only 1. and 2. relate to Ford Class C Chassis (E-Series).

And my friends wonder why I stopped buying Fords.

I just did the job last week on an 03 E350 box van I have. The engine was acting up a bit at 48,000 miles so I dove in. It's a tough job, especially hard on the passenger side. Access much more difficult on that side. The two hardest plugs are the second and third on the passenger side as you look under the hood. Your gonna want a beer after doing those. I would advise anyone doing the job to review some of the really good youtube video's.They have some real good tips. Snap-on makes a spark plug socket for just this engine. It's about 6 inches long and it holds the plug in with a nice snap when it's seated right. A few important points. Get some extra long zip ties. Use them to support and pull the wiring harness gently out of the way on each side. It's especially helpful on the passenger side. Do use compressed air to clean around the plugs before removal, and then again after you remove one. Use Motorcraft plugs(platinum) only no Autolite. If your coils are good replace the boots-get them from Napa. Put silicone grease on the end of each boot. The boot has an arrow on it that you match up to an arrow on the coil. Don't fail to do this or it won't go in right. I used a very small amount of anti-seize and torqued them to 23 foot pounds. There is no way those plugs are good for 100.000 miles. Mine at 48K had the gap way over spec. Hand start the plugs in the head only to avoid cross threading. You can feel when it's going right. Since I had the front all apart, I was going to do the idle pulley, belt, and tensioner, but held off and will do all that when the water pump goes. I would say that unless you have good tools and good mechanic skills, it may be worth it to give Ford the $500. Mine turned out good and is running like a champ.

j-d wrote:

CloudDriver wrote:
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.

@Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process!

NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better.

Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though.

@CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours?

The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun.

I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose.

Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.

Ours is on the 2003 chassis.

I bought a 3 gallon air compressor to the blow loose dirt off the top of the heads before removing the one coil I took off. I also blew out the spark plug hole with a 4" or so adapter before trying to loosen the plug. The space is so tight between the top of the engine and the cab that anything longer isn't going to fit. I did use some PB Blaster, but agree that there is no way for it to get past the seated plug. I didn't use any more PB Blaster after breaking the plug loose, as it unscrewed easily after the first 1/2 turn or so. The engine was cold and I wouldn't want to be reaching into in that confined space with a hot engine anyway. The Ford maintenance interval for changing the spark plugs is 100,000 miles, which I now believe to be too long, as I have a gap of almost 80 thousandths on the one plug removed so far vs. the spec of 54. I bought 10 new plugs at the local for dealer today and the gap is obviously much less on the new. These are the one piece plugs - no worry about breaking off the bottom part.

I Have a number of tools for this job on order from Amazon including a 20-200 pound inch torque wrench, a 5/8 magnetic swivel spark plug socket and a new gap gauge. These are supposed to arrive next Wednesday, so things are on hold for now. In the interim I'm looking for a less expensive source for the coils than the dealer price.

Take your doghouse off and take a look. Lots of impressive looking engine in there.