Hi All, I have a new problem I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with.The fuse box under the lift up dash/instrument panel was smoking.Upon shutting off the power and opening the fuse box I discovered the brake/blinker/hazard flasher had overheated and melted the plastic around it. The rest of the fuse box is fine, but the place where the flasher plugs in is no good due to the melting plastic. Now I have no brake lights, no turn signal lights, and no hazard lights.I removed the two screws holding the fuse box in place so I could get a look at the two wires going into the fuse box for the flasher. One is hot all the time. Doesn't matter if the key is on or off, it is hot. Is that normal? I bought a new flasher and went ahead and did a temporary install using jumper wires, and it flashes the brakes lights and turn signal lights constantly. I guess that makes sense since there is a constant hot wire. Any idea what the problem might be or how that circuit is supposed to work?I'm not sure what is normal, what isn't, or how that circuit works with the brake, turn signal and hazard lights.Thanks, Mike

Mike, I have a 95 Bounder but I lost all my wiring prints when I changed computers. Go to IRV2.com and post your question in the Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum. There is a fellow on there called subford. He is VERY knowledgeable and helpful. He should have the Ford wiring print you need.Richard

Thanks Richard,I have actually called you on the phone for help before with my Bounder. I'm guessing my regular mechanic might be able to figure this out. I'm calling him tomorrow. I will also try your advice on the other forum.

Is this a F53 chassis? We had some type of recall for an electrical switch this summer. We got a letter from Ford. Maybe you should see if there is any recall for this. I think they listed ours in the letter as the cruise control sensor switch, but the melting and a fire was what could happen.

Yes F53.Can't understand why the wire is constantly hot. I'm guessing that's why the flasher failed and melted the socket.

Fuse box problem 1995 Bounder HELP! | Good Sam Community

RLS7201
Explorer II
Dec 29, 2014
Mike, I have a 95 Bounder but I lost all my wiring prints when I changed computers. Go to IRV2.com and post your question in the Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum. There is a fellow on there called subford. He is VERY knowledgeable and helpful. He should have the Ford wiring print you need.

Richard
whit
Explorer
Dec 29, 2014
Thanks Richard,

I have actually called you on the phone for help before with my Bounder. I'm guessing my regular mechanic might be able to figure this out. I'm calling him tomorrow. I will also try your advice on the other forum.
whit
Explorer
Dec 29, 2014
doxiemom11
Explorer II
Dec 29, 2014
Is this a F53 chassis? We had some type of recall for an electrical switch this summer. We got a letter from Ford. Maybe you should see if there is any recall for this. I think they listed ours in the letter as the cruise control sensor switch, but the melting and a fire was what could happen.
whit
Explorer
Dec 29, 2014
Yes F53.
Can't understand why the wire is constantly hot. I'm guessing that's why the flasher failed and melted the socket.
whit
Explorer
Dec 29, 2014
I also don't understand how brakes, turn signals, and hazards go through that flasher. 1 wire going in and 1 wire going out. Wouldn't the brakes flash? How does it separate right and left turn signals? I'm missing something. Lol
Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Dec 29, 2014
The F53 cruise recall involved adding a fused wiring harness at the master cylinder. The turn signals, etc., all pass through the the multi-function switch on the steering column that also controls the wipers and hazard warning light functions. I suspect your problem may originate there. Replacement switches are readily available from Amazon and others, and are not particularly difficult to change.
allbrandauto
Explorer
Dec 29, 2014
with just 1 flasher for turnsignals and flasher 1 wire will be hot all of the time you have to wire flasher like you already have your problem with your lights will be turn signal switch
ScottG
Nomad
Dec 29, 2014
1 wire will be hot all the time but it won't be carrying any current unless a turn signal is flashing.
I would cut the wires where they enter the bottom of the fuse block and crimp or solder new terminals on and connect them directly to a new Heavy Duty flasher.
MrWizard
Moderator
Dec 29, 2014
The problem is not the hot wire
Which is needed for the 4 way emg flasher to work with out the key

The problem is WHY did it melt, what over loaded the circuit
Is there a short circuit some where down the line from the flasher

Or did the flasher fail internally and short out