Forum Discussion

Katman1100's avatar
Katman1100
Explorer
Dec 08, 2015

Handling on 1997 e450

I am the proud new owner of a 98 24'rsb born free that has been very well taking care of. I have read several posts on here about handling issues and fixes of the ford chassis. This one is the E-superduty known today as a E450. It has a gvwr of 14050 and according to the factory the unit ways right at 10,500 empty. I have yet to get it weighed.

It drives pretty good, but I would like to make it the best that it can be. Semis passing aren't much of a problem but crosswinds can be a little more of a challenge. If I slow down to 60 or so the handling gets better. When it isn't windy you can easily creep up past 70 without realizing it. So as I said the handling isn't awful, and I am used to driving vehicles much bigger and heavier, but want it to be as comfortable to drive as possible, especially when my wife is driving it.

The vehicle currently has a rear 1 1/4" sway bar and a front 1 1/8" sway bar, at least that is the closest measurement I could get. I do not know if these are aftermarket or factory, they both have rubber bushings rather than the harder plastic that I see the aftermarket come with. Also it appears to have the original shocks with 72,000 miles on them.

My thinking at this point is to first replace the shocks. I was thinking Bilistiens, but after much reading here I am leaning towards the new Koni's.

The steering damper is leaking and needs replaced to and I will probably go with a bilistien here unless I hear otherwise. I also considered the Safe T-Plus, but not sure I really need it, but I hate to buy a new steering damper and later decide to upgrade so any thoughts on this are appreciated.

After I replace the shocks I am going to get the alignment checked and be sure I get the 5+ degrees of camber. Also get it weighed and run tire pressure appropriately. Currently front are at 65psi and rear were at 75psi and unit was pretty empty for my 1000 mile trip home when purchased.

I really hate to throw away money I don't need to. I am hoping the sway bars it has currently are adequate, but do you think changing them would make a noticeable difference? Also do you think a trac bar would really help or is it overkill.

Please let me know what your thoughts are and the approach I am currently thinking of taking.

Thanks,
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Again, Henderson's Line-Up - They're located close to Roadmaster and they sell lots of Roadmaster components. Yet, they endorse Safe-T-Steer not Roadmaster Reflex. Just looking at the two products, Safe-T-Steer uses two protected opposing springs to push the steering back to center. Reflex uses one spring in a Push-Pull manner for centering. I'm no engineer but it seems the two-spring arrangement would be more precise.

    Your Safe-T-Plus would be the silver-gray "140" series. That means 140-pounds of centering pressure. Just remember:

    1. You will also need S-T-P's appropriate bracket kit

    2. You must adjust the S-T-P to make it center and not push the steering off to one side

    Don't forget to weigh it and adjust those tire pressures.
  • Ok looks like I probably have the OEM sway bars then. I may try and find a bushing kit for them, it is hard to believe upgrading on this small of coach would be worth the cost. Also will get the unit weighed and alignment checked to be sure the caster is at the 5+degree setting, I will also check the whole front suspension as well for worn items, and may add either a safe T Plus or the Roadmaster steering stabilizer. I think both products do about the same thing but the Roadmaster seems to be cheaper.

    I think I will be very satisfied with handling if I make these minor adjustments. I will report back with what I find. Any thought on if the Safe T Plus is that much better than the Roadmaster?
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    OEM front sway bar is 1" and OEM rear is 1-1/8". Just measured the two leaning against my house. (free for shipping if anybody wants them). You can probably find poly bushing kits that would improve performance of stock bars. Hellwig upgrades are 1-3/8" front and 1-1/2" rear. Easy DIY no-drill installation.

    IF you're basically satisfied with its handling and just want to sharpen it up, the Safe-T-Plus is quick and easy. Nobody's more of an RV alignment/handling/upgrade guru than John at Henderson's Line Up in Grants Pass Oregon. I've visited with John and he told me adding a S-T-P is equivalent to setting caster to 5-degrees. The 5-degree setting is what he set the Fords to in Henderson's shop.

    BUT first, Weigh it and then look up Michelin's RV Tire Pressure Chart. Based simply on the size of your coach I'm sure the tires are over-inflated. Going over on the REAR only harshens the ride. On FRONT, it contributes to wandering.

    Component wear was mentioned above. If this coach has a ton of miles and the ball joints are worn out, you can buy take-off axles and brakes from a 4x4 conversion shop. Less expensive than hiring out a ball joint or major brake job, and you get both.
  • The Safe-T-Plus is a steering stabilizer AND a damper. The OE is just a damper.
  • It is +5 Degrees of "CASTER", not camber. Camber is typically 0.0 Degrees.
  • Thanks for the responses so far. I was under the RV today and the bushings are all still there for the sway bars and actually appear to be in good shape. None are missing and there is no signs of cracking or other deterioration. It looks like for the most part you all agree to replace the shocks and get an alignment and go from there.

    As I said in the long opening post the handling is by no means awful, I just want to make it as good as possible.

    Any thoughts on replacing the steering damper/stabilizer with a Safe T-Plus? Questioning if it would be beneficial or a waste of money? As I said my steering stabilizer needs replaced so I would probably go with a Bilstein for $100 or so, but I can get the Safe T-Plus for $400. So is the difference of $300 worth it?
  • I think I remember correctly that a friend, truck mechanic warned me that E-series campers were prone to tie rod and ball joint issues which affected handling. Just another option to think about.
  • Hi,

    When my 97 F-53 chassis Fleetwood Bounder was only about 2 months old, and I had it loaded like I liked when I go camping, I took it to a big truck alignment shop. They had worked on straight beam trucks since the 50's and Ford's twin I-beams for many years too. They know how to align a twin I beam front end. They do it by bending the front axle to make the tire stand upright like it should.

    Anyway the guy at the alignment shop asked "Why get it aligned when it is so new?" I said that Fleetwood recommends it, just because the springs will settle a bit as the RV sits with weight on it. And the alignment at the factory is a 'light' chassis, with all the options, but no water or your camping gear, so they say after the springs settle out in 2 months to have it aligned. Anyway the results where it is pretty straight, but only needed a minor tweak. I had the original tires with a lot of tread on them at 7 years when they where replaced. Still have the replacements - 2004 tires that are now over 11 years old, but I am not driving the RV until I replace them. They have most of the original tread, because the alignment is still great!

    So new shocks (I replaced mine with Bilstiens at about 4,000 miles and the year old factory ones I could move in and out like an accordion).

    I don't think a change in the anti-sway bars will help. I know that I need to replace my bushings on my RV, as the old ones fell off, so the bar is not really doing much now.

    Good luck,

    Fred.
  • From what you describe about your handling, you would be fixing a non-existent problem if you start messing with the sway bars. New shocks might be in order, and alignment, but it sure doesn't sound like you need anything else.