how do i tell if 50 amps is coming through plug.

naturist wrote:
50 amp RV service is really two separate 120 volt, 25 amp circuits, as I understand it. This would suggest you only need a tester capable of drawing 25 amps. 25 amps at 120 volts is 3,000 watts. So get two 1500 watt heaters (probably run you $15-$20 at Wallys -- or heck, you probably have a couple laying around already, as that is the "standard" small space heater wattage). Plug 'em in together on one branch of the circuit, then the other, and if the circuits both support the heaters going full blast for, oh, say, one minute, you got 50 amp service.

Totally INCORRECT. An RV 50 amp outlet has TWO, repeat TWO, 50 amp breakers. So 50 amps on L1 and 50 amps on L2.

Check with voltmeter:

Two outer straights are hots, center straight is neutral and center round is ground.

SO:

From either outer straight to center straight or center round is 120 VAC.

Outer straight to outer straight is 240 VAC.

Center straight to center round is 0 VAC.

THEN, and an important THEN, monitor voltage while he turns on loads-- he will NOT exceed the 50 amp RV capacity with a "regular" RV (excluding some bus conversions).

peaches, I don't think you read what I said. Do you expect the landlord to fix the RV for free?
Because I suspect there was an issue with the RV all along...

Hi,

Get a clamp on multimeter. Have the electrician wire a 50 amp plug that has two 20 amp outlets or 30 amp outlets. Plug in two 1500 watt heaters--one on each plug. Measure the voltage. Then use the clamp on to check the amperage. The amperage should be approximately the same on each "leg", and there should be little voltage drop.



50 amp to twin 30 amp adapter

karaokegal wrote:
i own an RV storage facility and have 50 amp plugs onsite for my customers. The plugs and wiring was done by a licenced electrician. I have one customer who complained that even though the plug is working he is not getting 50 amps because he can not run his AC nor his refrig. I moved the customer and he had same issue at another plug then the 3rd plug worked. I called the electrician out and he said everything was fine. How do I prove to this customer that the plug is putting out 50 amps? Also what could be the cause in the rv that would cause it to work sometimes and not all the time.

smkettner wrote:
Next time call out an electrician before you move the RV.

Explain to the customer if the outlet is found defective it will be fixed, if the RV has an issue it will be $150 for the service call plus any repairs.

And if I was the customer I would tell you "don't waste your time". I'd be gone in a heartbeat and would post on RV.NET. If I'm paying rent it's your obligation to provide the correct service, not mine.

naturist wrote:
50 amp RV service is really two separate 120 volt, 25 amp circuits, as I understand it. This would suggest you only need a tester capable of drawing 25 amps. 25 amps at 120 volts is 3,000 watts. So get two 1500 watt heaters (probably run you $15-$20 at Wallys -- or heck, you probably have a couple laying around already, as that is the "standard" small space heater wattage). Plug 'em in together on one branch of the circuit, then the other, and if the circuits both support the heaters going full blast for, oh, say, one minute, you got 50 amp service.

No it is 50 amp 240/120 volt service.
50 amps at 240 volts, 12,000 watts.
Since RVs only use 120 volts it is the RV equivalent of 100 amps.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

If both hot legs are on the same phase some RV systems will think it's only a 30 amp service (mine does this). Check the voltage between the two hot legs and if it's not 240 that could be the problem. The electrician should know that but don't count on it.

50 amp RV service is really two separate 120 volt, 25 amp circuits, as I understand it. This would suggest you only need a tester capable of drawing 25 amps. 25 amps at 120 volts is 3,000 watts. So get two 1500 watt heaters (probably run you $15-$20 at Wallys -- or heck, you probably have a couple laying around already, as that is the "standard" small space heater wattage). Plug 'em in together on one branch of the circuit, then the other, and if the circuits both support the heaters going full blast for, oh, say, one minute, you got 50 amp service.

Next time call out an electrician before you move the RV.

Explain to the customer if the outlet is found defective it will be fixed(no cost to RV owner), if the RV has an issue it will be $150 for the service call plus any repairs to the RV.

If the customer balks let him hire an electrician and agree to pay the fee if he fixes or finds the issue to be with the outlet.

(edited for clarity)

The only way to prove to the customer would be to have him move back to the original space and test the plug, but what would be the point if he's happy leave him there versus moving them back...

Load test the plug to ensure that all of the connections are tight. The biggest reason of things to not work is a loose connection, and that could be on your end or on the customer's end. So load testing the plug would prove (at least to you) that your service is good. Voltage testing is not the same as load testing... You could read 120V on each leg but as soon as you introduce a load (fridge or A/C) the voltage could drop.

You can use a voltmeter to see if the voltage is present at the correct terminals but that WILL NOT tell you the amperage capacity at the outlet.
I would contact another electrician and have him inspect the wiring to insure that the correct gauge wire was used, for the distances run, and that the source is capable of supplying the necessary amperage for ALL outlets.