HWH 200 Series (Joystick on floor) One Jack Leaking

Well, a couple of good points from this:
HWH responded real fast. Faster than I have been reading about here. I used email form instead of a phone call. The rebuild was around 300, 400 for new. I needed to be 100% fast but by going with new, I also now have working wounded spare, something I wouldn't have with rebuild. Not everyone has that luxury but for me it was a no brainer.

they dont ask for cores back on older coaches, nor could they reduce the price.they would have no idea what was wrong with the core, and could not give a fixed price. if it was total junk, they would be out whatever they allowed. they only require cores for new warranty repairs. one reason for this is to verify that the valve really needed to be replaced, and what was wrong with it. like all mfg, old parts must be returned for warranty.
all you had to do is request they rebuild yours. yes this requires time. a quantity some people dont have a lot of.
in your case. it was expedient to buy a new one, because of your trip.

Interesting HWH did not ask me to return core for reduced price for new. Maybe that is an option they should offer. In my case, I did not want to be without that valve since I have a trip soon. Not sure it can be rebuilt locally at all, at least not economically. Since mine only leaks down real slow, I may just hang on to it for emergency spare. New one showed up today.

no, that price is for a new basic joystick valve. RAP0367. order a reman one,(depends on whether they have in stock) or send yours in to have it repaired. this way is much cheaper and carries a one year warranty. local shops dont do one year warranties as a rule.
the valve plunger and guide can be replaced, its available in kit form,RAP1635( 4 pieces to a kit.) but you dont get it tested for valve seat failure. the plungers can be moved from one position to another to check out if the problem moves with it. if it does, you can just replace the plunger and guide.
note** replacement of these parts DOES NOT guarantee a fix. only a leak down test will verify if this works.
the only way hwh has a remanufactured part is if one has been replaced under warranty, and the core is returned to hwh. hwh then rebuilds that part and sells it as a reman part. thats why its hard to get reman parts from hwh. if they dont have one in stock, then only new is available. we quote new price when no reman pieces are in stock.

Are you talking about the 4 individual brass valves inside the joy stick box? Are each one $400 or does that include the whole metal valve body and all the valves?.

Yes, the driver front. Slowly creeps up. New valve is almost 400 bucks. I ordered one but will still try to get the old one rebuilt for a spare.

Be sure to update this thread after you get it looked at. I'm having the same issue, and curious what you end up doing to fix it.

Is it the same jack that always has the issue?

HWH responded right away. I need a new valve. I think I will take the old one to the hydraulic shop and see if they can fix it for cheaper than HWH could do.

Looking in my manual ML23934/M191.0022 the only valve is the one under the joy stick. I am loking at part 2 para g.
Did you read the Note ounder this para about raising the rig min of 3/4?
You maybe able to flush out the valve assembly. It could be a small peice of debris stuck in the valve.

Since you didn't see any leakage around the jack, one has to assume the valve on top of the pump is not holding. You should have one valve for each jack. The T handle on the end of the valve should be backed off.

The T handle can be turned in to release pressure to that jack to raise a jack that won't raise due to some electrical or other problem.