I thought I decided on a TT, Now studying Class C

Hmmm... as a used-car dealer who sells a lot of big work vans, the E-Super-Duties just keep running. We've sold vans with 150+k miles that have been great!

As a former Class C owner - they are awesome! Super-easy and fast to set up; nimble; and affordable. Ours was an entry-level 28' that served us flawlessly for 10 years - we traveled all over! Each night was a different place. Now, we are trying to learn to Snowbird and stay put for a week or more; so have gone to a 5th Wheel.

Biggest advantage of a Class C? Twice, we have been stuck in very slow-moving traffic jams for hours. In the C, we could snack, get beverages, switch off drivers during a stopped moment, so one of us could use the potty, etc. That's really hard to do with a trailer ;-)

What would *I* look for? The "baby" - the pampered RV that lived indoors (if possible) or at least got meticulous care and maintenance. I think that's more important than build quality?

KZ sportsmen 241rks is a nice little lay out and for beginners should be good. Around 6000* and about $18K so fits the budget even with the safety equipment that you will need/want. Do not over load it and keep the TT balanced. After you get it loaded take to a weight station/truck stop and see how you did. I am guessing it is going to be new so enjoy.... I be gone.

Well let me take you another way. We just purchased a 2012 Winnebago class B+ at 28ft on the e450 chassis. We ended up buying a towd vehicle and if you don't have one plan on buying one and then the costs for the tow setup. For us it was easy as the guy we bought from gave us everything but the base plate for whatever vehicle. He towed a Mini Cooper we bought a new Hyundai Elantra as the used vehicles were generally going to cost as much and had bazillion miles on them.

We also have (had before the MH) a ford F350 and a 24 ft TT that we towed behind our old F250 gasser. Generally I prefer the TT as the truck is more comfortable than the Rv, but the wife like the ability to get up and go to the potty etc. I like the truck because it is way more comfortable and it really does not take much longer to set up than it does the RV. Oh I know everyone says pull in drop the jacks and you are done! But in reality you face the same leveling requirements for the Rv as the TT. I used a 1/2 in drive drill to raise lower the levelers on the trailer and setting up the sewer, electricity and water is a wash for both.

We found with the shorter TT we could get into places where you could not with bigger. One night we got to a campground that was full but they let us stay in park lot due to our TT size and we got a place the next day. the next Rv place was 80 miles away from where we wanted to be, thus when we looked for an RV 28-29 ft was the limit I set to get.

The best thing to do is rent a cl a and then a c and see which meets your wants. I don't want an A due to the sizes involved. I drive a school bus so don't want something that is just the same size as they are a PIA to drive in traffic and the class B is actually a little more aerodynamic than the A or C. We do not need all the beds as its just the 2 of us and the dinette will make into a bed if grand kids were ever to be involved (doubtful). Also the smaller size will allow for street parking. We spent some time visiting and a neighbor who was moving away from the area we were in said to park in his driveway and with the size we could. Could have backed the TT into drive if we had had it so we prefer the smaller size as indicated.

So as you can see there are pros cons to all. Only you can determine what is right, so if able go rent and try its cheaper than buying and finding out you don't like what ya got!

JAXFL wrote:


ON EDIT: dealer you can trust a

Are there any of those out there? LOL

Thanks again for the comments. My Yukon is the 5.7 V-8 and the specs say 7300 pounds, but the door sticker shows 6900 so that is why I stayed with a 4500 DW trailer.

Yes a smaller one would be easier to pull, but the floorplans were not what we needed. I have a deposit on a KZ sportsmen 241rks now, but not sure when the factory will actually run those units.

I knew that the Yukon would not be what we used on our trip as a secondary vehicle. I was anticipating trading in the DW's Subaru for a tow behind vehicle.

Based on the comments here, I will probably stay with the TT unless a great deal pops up on a MH.

Thanks again.

I agree with jmtandem on going for a TT that's within your budget, get one that isn't too big for the pickup to pull. Then after RVing for a year or two with the TT, you may decide that if a MH fits your style better; then start shopping for one. I'd stay in the under 26ft length though and go for an older used top-line Class C such as Coach House or Chinook. You're probably looking at $30-40K or more for a 10-12 year old low mileage unit.

I have spent the last two months learning about TT's,


I recently started looking at class C MH's. If you have advise, advantages, suggestions I would love to hear them.

Limits and considerations.

Used 32-36', budget of $25,000 or so, probably looking at a 2000 or 2005 years.

You could find a very nice pre owned TT for about half your budget that fits the tow ratings of your tow vehicle. You are probably in the 20-22 foot TT range to stay within the tow ratings. That is minimal money to get into RVing and to get a feel for the lifestyle. Then, after the trip, decide if RVing is for you and your family and, if so, then what kind of RV you really want.

Just adding my 2 cents. I drove an 18 wheeler for 42 years and watching all the folks rv'ing mostly in the summer months, and I thought how I would love to do that when I retire. Unfortunately my late wife wanted nothing to do with the lifestyle so we retired to central Fl. like most senior citizens do and did the cruise thing and saw b'dwy road shows and such. Four and a half years after my lose, my LF {who is game} and myself partner'd up and bought a 24' Forester with one slide and the Chevy chassis,that we should have by the end of the month. I liked the more legroom besides the doghouse that the Chevy offered. We're not going to tow at this time sticking mostly to metro area's where we can use public trans, shuttles and at times rent a car. Will be doing mostly weekends,because she has 2 dogs that will need to be boarded. you might say I'm working on my bucket list.

Like I-d says... I have the 2008 V10 Ford 32'.....Very nice, almost certainly out of your price range.

You could not touch mine with only 12K miles on it for less that $50K, it looks like it just came off the assembly line. Also just put tires all the way around for $1500 so check them also on anything that has 7+ year old tires.

ON EDIT: before you pay for it (motorhome or trailer)...take it to a dealer you can trust and have them go over every part, that can save you thousands right from the start. It is not really any different than buying a used car, just more parts can go wrong.

If you haven't done much RVing, then the minimal investment suggestion is a very good one. Almost everybody can enjoy a long weekend in a beautiful park with excellent weather. Find out if you can stand a week of rain, puddles and mud. It'll eventually happen.

If the only vehicle you own now is a subcompact sedan, then a Class C is the least expensive way to get into RVing, and if that subcompact is towable, even better.

But if you already own a suitable truck, need a massive truck for business, etc. then a TT or Fiver starts to make sense. My cousin had a Yukon. I think it was a 4WD with 5.7L engine. He bought a single slide 26-ft TT and made a number of trips with that rig, staying within Florida. After one trip to the Smoky Mountains, he traded for an F250 diesel. So... my quick look shows 4.8L V8 for your truck. If so, that 24-ft limit you mention is what I'd see as maximum even though that page I looked at said 7700-lb towing. They're usually overly optimistic, and that towing rating figures a truck that's essentially empty. Put 1500 inside the truck and towing is now 5200, etc.

They started having the 6.0L V8 in those trucks along with a six-speed automatic. A friend from Oregon has that one, and has pulled a 28-ft TT all over the country. He's happy and doesn't have a diesel which he feels is an expensive trouble prone setup.

V10? An outstanding power plant.

But first let me say: NO Class C (E350 or E450 chassis) EVER had the Three-Valve engine used in later model F-Series and the Class A chassis. 3V has 50-hp more, but the TORQUE difference isn't anywhere near as much.

V10 came out in 1997. 1997-8-9 were the same engine, and it's the one that became famous for sparkplug thread problems. Not just in Class C's - every "Modular" Ford engine was that way, V6's, V8's, F-Series, Class A, every one.

In the 2000 CHASSIS MODEL YEAR, Ford changed the heads, calling them "Performance Improved" since rated HP went from 275 up to 305. They also put a proper number of sparkplug threads in the "PI" heads. So, my suggestion would be to avoid a "2000" RV that's actually on a 1999 Ford chassis. The Ford label in the door jamb will tell you that.

Unfortunately, some of those PI heads had plug holes machined just a pinch off and there were a few isolated plug issues. Nothing, by the way, like Ford had with early Three-Valve heads...

Then Ford discontinued the 4R100 transmission and phased in the 5R110 better known as TorqShift. It's along the lines of GM's legendary Allison (some say better) and has Tow/Haul mode. This lets you have Overdrive under conditions that 4R100 can't handle without downshifting. That happened sometime around 2005 Chassis Model Year.

Finally, in 2008 Ford changed the front end "look" to the "dump truck" style. But they also increased the capacity of the Front Axle and Brakes, plus a few other tweaks.

So, those who say "Ford hasn't changed E-Series since 1992" are misinformed.

1997-99 - I personally would avoid those, but many here have them and the plugs have not been a problem. I've driven F-Series from 1999 and 2010 and couldn't feel much difference between the 275-hp and the 362-hp engines. TorqShift was nicer than 4R100, though.

2000-2004 - safe bet. This is what we have and it's been very good. Smooth, quiet, powerful, decent ride, doesn't wear tires.

2005-2007 - If it has "Tow/Haul" on the end of the Shift Lever it's TorqShift, and past those years of isolated plug problems. If you can score one in your price range, it'd be worthwhile to stretch a little.

2008 - up - With Ford shutting down the E-Series VAN line, this may be about as good as E is going to get. Very nice, almost certainly out of your price range.