I was an IDIOT for buying a Thor Palazzo!!!

wa8yxm wrote:
Looks like about 5-10 mintues of work to fix it, Believe it or not, Could be as high as an hour but let me give you my guess.

The tilting is normal.. I drive a Damon (Thor brand) Intruder. It uses a power gear Rack and Pinion on the main slide, I'm guessing yours does too.

I was doind some investigation on that recently and it is a fact it is designed to TIP some as it approaches either full in or full out, This is because they wish to make sure the TOP is sealed tightly and the drive is at the bottom.

Page next.

The drive has a bunch of shear pins, In my case they are quarer inch grade 8 bolts.. I used to snap 'em like toothpicks till someone, here in fact, tipped me to the solution (longer bolts)

There is a square tube that fits over a round shaft.. YOu want bolts long enough that the Smooth "Shank" of the bolt extends all the way through and no threads are within the square tube.. Then washer it up so you can properly tighten it down (Thick "Fender" washers work well) I use NYLOCK nuts.

You line it up so the two sides are same distance, Replace the bolt and pray.. IT may jump a notch or two when it's all the way in or out the first time.


NOTE: you may also have one or two other issues.. These are more serious and you may need professional help with them.. I discovered them just last week (This being Sunday).. NOTE: I do not have those problems, But I discoverd the part that could cause them.

This is a BRAND NEW MH. I should not have to fix anything. I am not so sure what you are referring to is applicable here. These Palazzo's use this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RgxlPFkIVo#t=83

Great video, huh? It sure failed on mine!!!

Looks like about 5-10 mintues of work to fix it, Believe it or not, Could be as high as an hour but let me give you my guess.

The tilting is normal.. I drive a Damon (Thor brand) Intruder. It uses a power gear Rack and Pinion on the main slide, I'm guessing yours does too.

I was doind some investigation on that recently and it is a fact it is designed to TIP some as it approaches either full in or full out, This is because they wish to make sure the TOP is sealed tightly and the drive is at the bottom.

Page next.

The drive has a bunch of shear pins, In my case they are quarer inch grade 8 bolts.. I used to snap 'em like toothpicks till someone, here in fact, tipped me to the solution (longer bolts)

There is a square tube that fits over a round shaft.. YOu want bolts long enough that the Smooth "Shank" of the bolt extends all the way through and no threads are within the square tube.. Then washer it up so you can properly tighten it down (Thick "Fender" washers work well) I use NYLOCK nuts.

You line it up so the two sides are same distance, Replace the bolt and pray.. IT may jump a notch or two when it's all the way in or out the first time.


NOTE: you may also have one or two other issues.. These are more serious and you may need professional help with them.. I discovered them just last week (This being Sunday).. NOTE: I do not have those problems, But I discoverd the part that could cause them.

I traded in a perfectly good Keystone Raptor for this POS.I had no problems what so ever with it other then the usual normal aging issues.

downtheroad wrote:
No...you were not an 'idiot' for buying it. The IDIOTS were the guys who built it.

Gosh, who needs that kind of grief. Good luck with it all.

There is definitely structural damage to the slide. It made some awful noises. I don't want this thing back. I don't know what we will do.

The RV industry does not care about the consumer or quality. They just keep pushing this junk out the door and we keep buying them with the hope that they'll do a good job.

Someday, a smart foreign manufacturer will figure out how to build them correctly and ship them to the U.S. for a profit. When that happens, the RV industry will either have to shape up or go out of business. I'm not saying all of them are junk, but I've yet to buy a TT of FW that didn't need extensive warranty work right out of the showroom.

No...you were not an 'idiot' for buying it. The IDIOTS were the guys who built it.

Gosh, who needs that kind of grief. Good luck with it all.

I looked at a 2013 here in Ct. and noticed the paper pulling off the wood in the same area. It is a nice looking unit though. Hope you get it fixed up in a hurry. Since you purchased from CW contact Marcus in the CW rv sales on this forum.

I feel your pain
Start raising heck at CW and demand another unit( different mfg!)

et2 wrote:
If that last pic is a slide its probably the wood wrapping to make the particle board look like real wood. The slide probably dragged and due to it not being wrapped correctly pulled off. I had our MH in for the same thing ( not wrapped correctly). Just plain lazy work and lack of quality control.

The slides ... I feel your pain !! Make sure you start documenting all your repairs. They might come in handy down the line.

Quick question, was the motor home level with jacks down when this happened.

Yes. level and on the jacks. The concern I have now is the when we saw it on the CW lot, it was in about the most unlevel place it could be and not on the jacks, The slides were out and I know they put them in without the unit being on the jacks. I already noted that some metal shavings were coming off of the top rear slide gear rail, but no one at camping world or Thor seemed to think it was a problem. Now they have a major disaster on their hands.

If that last pic is a slide its probably the wood wrapping to make the particle board look like real wood. The slide probably dragged and due to it not being wrapped correctly pulled off. I had our MH in for the same thing ( not wrapped correctly). Just plain lazy work and lack of quality control.

The slides ... I feel your pain !! Make sure you start documenting all your repairs. They might come in handy down the line.

Quick question, was the motor home level with jacks down when this happened.