leveling a class a motorhome

Bumpyroad wrote:

Lobstah wrote:

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

yep, HWH biaxial leveling.
bumpy

This is true with HWH leveling systems. I had them on my gasoline coach and I can honestly say they are the worst jacks you can get.
What I have on this DP are Quadra by Big Foot and you can operate them one at a time or all at the same time. Best is one at a time. As soon as it touches the ground stop and go to the other until you have all four touching the ground. Then look at the bubble on your levels and like they say just center the bubble. Very simple and they are superior to the HWH. HWH are a joke with their spring return. I used to hate mine on my gasoline coach.