Marker Lights Out

look for one marked tail lights ,or start pulling fuses. take a test light and check for power at the pig tail, .

instead of pulling fuses I like to use a continuity tester across the fuse. Saves pulling them out. Faster also.

Sounds like a chassis issue, I would look under the dash first. Also there may be a master fuse box under the engine compartment.

look on the back of the fuse panel cover there should be a map of the fuse panel.says what fuse does what.

Had a similar incident with my 2008 Winnebago Outlook. Under the hood was a fuse box and one fuse had blown and it was for the lights. Good luck in your search and hope it works out for you. Merry Christmas and happy travels.

klutchdust wrote:
instead of pulling fuses I like to use a continuity tester across the fuse. Saves pulling them out.

The circuit resistance itself can fool the continuity tester into saying a fuse is good. This is not a recommended or 100% method!

sch911 wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
instead of pulling fuses I like to use a continuity tester across the fuse. Saves pulling them out.

The circuit resistance itself can fool the continuity tester into saying a fuse is good. This is not a recommended or 100% method!

Yes it is. A fuse blows and there is no longer a connection thereby breaking the circuit. Simplest circuit protector there is.

klutchdust wrote:

sch911 wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
instead of pulling fuses I like to use a continuity tester across the fuse. Saves pulling them out.

The circuit resistance itself can fool the continuity tester into saying a fuse is good. This is not a recommended or 100% method!

Yes it is. A fuse blows and there is no longer a connection thereby breaking the circuit. Simplest circuit protector there is.

Look at the bigger picture. With the fuse blown the connection is now on the circuit side, and if it has enough resistance in the circuit it will trip the tester!

sch911 wrote:

klutchdust wrote:

sch911 wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
instead of pulling fuses I like to use a continuity tester across the fuse. Saves pulling them out.

The circuit resistance itself can fool the continuity tester into saying a fuse is good. This is not a recommended or 100% method!

Yes it is. A fuse blows and there is no longer a connection thereby breaking the circuit. Simplest circuit protector there is.

Look at the bigger picture. With the fuse blown the connection is now on the circuit side, and if it has enough resistance in the circuit it will trip the tester!

Huh?

A blown fuse has no continuity between one side and the other, thus, an open circuit and no lights.

Looking at this fuse, in-between the two main posts is a fine wire. When this fine wire gets overheated it will melt. If you put a probe on one post and a probe on the other your continuity tester will not beep.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Continuity has been broken. With the fuse still being in the fuse holder there is enough sticking out of the

back that you can touch with the probes. You DO NOT have to remove the fuses to test them. Started wrenching in 1972 and this method has not failed

me yet. Used it with the glass fuses as well. Do you understand the word continuity? We are testing to see if power is going from one side of the fuse

to the other, not how much power is in the circuit.

Huh?

A blown fuse has no continuity between one side and the other, thus, an open circuit and no lights.

If left in the fuse box attached to the vehicle circuitry (as the earlier poster suggested) yes it can. To all of you who disagree re read the responses. Of course if you remove the fuse from the fuse box ans test it it will for sure be open, but that's not what we're talking about here. We're talking about testing it in place, in the fuse box! You most definitely can get a false positive depending on what circuit it's attached to and what the resistance is. This is why only a voltmeter or test light should be used when testing without removing the fuse.