Notorious Yellow Wire

Hikerdogs wrote:
You need to understand the Winnebago wiring schematics. They're similar to an industrial wiring schematic. All the 12 volt wires are the same color. They have a wire number printed on every wire each foot or so for the entire length. The number on the wire identifies where it comes from and where it goes.

Here's a link to the wiring number identification table:
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/electrical_guide.pdf

It covers many years and is in alpha numeric order.

Here's a link to the online wiring information.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Help.pdf

It identifies different aspects, codes, notes, and detailed views used in the drawings. Keep in mind these are engineering drawings and as such require some knowledge of drafting standards to properly interpret.

Yes they are very similar . I have some bugs to work out on this one .Almost there .C7 (350) ,27K miles full body paint purchased from original owner with a no cold 4 door
Thank you !

Hikerdogs wrote:
You need to understand the Winnebago wiring schematics. They're similar to an industrial wiring schematic. All the 12 volt wires are the same color. They have a wire number printed on every wire each foot or so for the entire length. The number on the wire identifies where it comes from and where it goes.

Here's a link to the wiring number identification table:
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/electrical_guide.pdf

It covers many years and is in alpha numeric order.

Here's a link to the online wiring information.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Help.pdf

It identifies different aspects, codes, notes, and detailed views used in the drawings. Keep in mind these are engineering drawings and as such require some knowledge of drafting standards to properly interpret.

let me clear that up for you Switches to the right of steering wheel from top down
RADIO POWER is 2 way aux or main
second down is AUX BAT that is the one thats momentary
Holding it engaged will show current at the black solenoid with the 2 fuses on either side

I will check out those sources of info . I did well in drafting back in school and did get a job with a surveyor but never pursued the trade .And that was in another life time
Again thank you !

No I will not be cutting any wires ,ect , thats not how I roll Fix it and fix it right

You need to understand the Winnebago wiring schematics. They're similar to an industrial wiring schematic. All the 12 volt wires are the same color. They have a wire number printed on every wire each foot or so for the entire length. The number on the wire identifies where it comes from and where it goes.

Here's a link to the wiring number identification table:
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/electrical_guide.pdf

It covers many years and is in alpha numeric order.

Here's a link to the online wiring information.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Help.pdf

It identifies different aspects, codes, notes, and detailed views used in the drawings. Keep in mind these are engineering drawings and as such require some knowledge of drafting standards to properly interpret.

But not when its at rest in the middle .

I'm a bit confused here. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 that's almost identical to your coach. And, with our dash switch that switches the power to the radio from coach to chassis batteries, there is no MIDDLE position. It's either flipped one way, or the other with no stopping position in the middle, like some toggles.

As for "Cutting" any wires, I'd pull back on the reins on that. Winne put all the wires in that operation that are necessary for that radio to operate, in two different modes. You DO have a problem somewhere but, cutting wires simply 'cause you haven't located the source of that issue, is not the way to solve problems.

I do agree that sometimes Winne's wiring diagrams can be a like following a Los Angelus CA road map, a pain in the a$$. There are some pretty good folks on IRV2, in the Winne section that are good at reading those. If I were you, I'd cruise on over to that place and see if you can find help there. Good luck.
Scott

dougrainer wrote:
Are you positive that there is NOT a Radio Dash switch? Some Winne's used a Dash switch that switched between CHASSIS power for the radio and COACH power for the radio. That switch means that you could use the Radio when camped without draining the chassis battery. Now, since you had blown fuses at the time of changing the batteries, that means at some point you connected the WRONG positive wire. Fuses do not blow when changing batteries unless you short something. You state that there are NO fuses behind the radio. Well after working on Motorhomes for 37 years (still do) I have never seen the OEM remove the inline fuse holders on the back of radios. That means there may be that inline fuse UNLESS you are positive that it is the yellow Winne wires direct to that RED and Yellow from the radio. Now, some OEM's fuse the Radio and some other components AT the battery area or at the battery disconnect area. Double check within a foot or so of the battery area and the Battery disconnect area. If you call Winne, they are usually pretty sharp at where these type fuses may be located as it is a very common complaint. Doug

Yes there is a switch that toggles the radio from coach to starting batterys
I have that switch out from the dash .doing that I will put a rubber band around it and check voltage at the solenoid. I will get voltage while switch is depressed in either direction . But not when its at rest in the middle . As i believe it should .
I was doing this to check both solenoids inside the panel. As the Aux start switch from coach to chassis was not working . I had seen the solenoid was opened by PO for cleaning . I also opened it and un gummed it . A new silver contact one is on its way in a day or two , I just , one by one also swapped every relay in the front to eliminate that possibility
I am going to call tech support after the weekend as you suggested.
In not a novice with these type problems . The coach was purchased from an 84yo who didn't use it for the last few years , He also had all constant draw items disconnected prior to my purchase . I now have battery up to par and charging properly .
Oh let me ask ,, under dash in the cluster of wires . I see s couple connectors . Grey in color about an inch and half to two inch . Rather odd to me . Could they be a fusible link ?

Are you positive that there is NOT a Radio Dash switch? Some Winne's used a Dash switch that switched between CHASSIS power for the radio and COACH power for the radio. That switch means that you could use the Radio when camped without draining the chassis battery. Now, since you had blown fuses at the time of changing the batteries, that means at some point you connected the WRONG positive wire. Fuses do not blow when changing batteries unless you short something. You state that there are NO fuses behind the radio. Well after working on Motorhomes for 37 years (still do) I have never seen the OEM remove the inline fuse holders on the back of radios. That means there may be that inline fuse UNLESS you are positive that it is the yellow Winne wires direct to that RED and Yellow from the radio. Now, some OEM's fuse the Radio and some other components AT the battery area or at the battery disconnect area. Double check within a foot or so of the battery area and the Battery disconnect area. If you call Winne, they are usually pretty sharp at where these type fuses may be located as it is a very common complaint. Doug

Anna C wrote:

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
If it's a constant feed when key is off for maintaining memory, it probly only needs a half-amp fuse at most.

Thats all well and good .
Although as I had said it needs to be constant . on a bench test it proves that .
The trickle up in voltage only will get up to 12V . Being on shore power all other terminals and battery will be at 13 or so .
This makes me think it getting feedback or something
I have been up & under everywhere looking for an in line cause .
I have even taken the base speaker and amp out , near the driver left foot looking
I can not --- accept this dilemma There has to be a cure

I understand .
Although everything worked until I freshened up that battery compartment .
Something had to ark to blow several items .this is the only item I can't correct
Frustrating at the least !

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
If it's a constant feed when key is off for maintaining memory, it probly only needs a half-amp fuse at most.

Thats all well and good .
Although as I had said it needs to be constant . on a bench test it proves that .
The trickle up in voltage only will get up to 12V . Being on shore power all other terminals and battery will be at 13 or so .
This makes me think it getting feedback or something
I have been up & under everywhere looking for an in line cause .
I have even taken the base speaker and amp out , near the driver left foot looking
I can not --- accept this dilemma There has to be a cure

Under the hood, there is often a fuse block with a spare fuse holder or two. Adding your own wire to a constant voltage source there would fix your problem as it sounds as though you have a poor connection somewhere in the existing yellow wire connections.

If it's a constant feed when key is off for maintaining memory, it probly only needs a half-amp fuse at most.