I have a friend who is selling a 1993 Gulfstream Ultra Class C Ford E350 with 81k miles.He says:Needs considerable work on interior and some on the roof, but is mechanically sound with new tires and rebuilt transmission. All appliances (a/c, fridge, microwave , stove etc) are functional. Currently accepting ridiculous low-ball offersI ask if it could make it across the country and to be more specific:Honestly, it does need a substantial amount of work in order for it to be habitable. There is a leak in the roof and a degree of water damage to the interior dining area. A good portion of the roof has been replaced already. The sleeping compartment over the driving area and the floor in the kitchen area are in need of repair. We built bunk beds in the rear bedroom, so depending on how you feel about that, it could also require some attention. Mechanically speaking, I have no reason to believe that it wouldn't be able to drive across the country (although it has been sitting for the better part of a year). It does also have a new battery. I would recommend just coming to check it out if you're seriously considering it. Perhaps you could make an offer based upon what you see. So what do you Pros think? Is it worth a low-ball offer? What would you pay for this? Is it even worth it given the reconditioning that would be necessary? What else should I find out about it? How much, based on what he says, would you estimate in potential repairs?I appreciate all time given to this, and really look forward to owning an RV someday.Thanks!

NADA gives current retail value as between $3500 and $4500. (link)Given the amount of work described as necessary to get it habitable, a couple of thousand dollars would seem reasonable to me.Note:If you have no experience with this kind of project, be warned that costs for even so-called "cosmetic repairs" add up really fast.

I have owned a water-damaged coach before, and it was almost non-habitable due to the mold. Water damage can be serious stuff.

If you have the skills, time and a place to work, the DIY repairs, will cost you probably $1-2k or more in materials, and several full-time 40+ hour weeks of labor. If you can't DIY it, it's really worth nothing; skilled labor is pricey and adds up real quick.Jim, "Half the people you know are below average."

I would guess if they were unable to maintain the roof to keep the leaks from doing damage, it is doubtful they performed proper maintenance on the drivetrain.You should be able to find Class Cs in better shape than this for the same money it would cost to buy and then repair this one.

Well I am not going to call myself a pro, but I am just about done with a cabover rebuild of my 1983 and have learned a thing or two and have stuff to say! Here comes a long winded answer.The vehicle part of that MH is standard stuff. Any repair shop familiar with Ford vans can work on it and so can a competent home mechanic. Have a PPI done on the automotive end.Water damage is potentially a HUGE issue. The body on that girl is bonded as a single structural panel. If there is any buckling on the sides, it compromises structural rigidity. I have read that the only way to fix that type of construction is replacing complete sections. If the body sides are buckled, just walk away.If the body sides are in good shape and there is leakage in the roof, it is very repairable. It most certainly can take a fair amount of work, but you CAN DIY that kind of repair given enough space time and your effort. If you would have to pay a shop to do that kind of work, then just walk away.If the floor is stained, it’s an easy fix. If the floor is buckled and rotting, it could lead to a major rebuild of floor sections. Materials are fairly cheap for the repair, but labor would again be a killer. The ad. reads like the cabover floor needs repair. To give you an idea, my 1983 Jamboree was completely rotted out in the passenger front corner. Mine is the older style body of corrugated filon and has a metal sub-frame. The wood all attaches to the metal. That made it "easier" to repair, but I needed to tear everything off the sub-frames, replace a lot of steel and replace ALL wood up there, back to the first set of cabinets. I am 70 man hours into the job and had to do both carpentry and metal work. Materials have been about $600 so far. By time I factor in cost of the cabover rebuild, the original purchase price, fixing the engine and passing smog, repairing a couple appliances along the way, new tires and materials, I'm guessing I'll end up with my total investment somewhere between $8000 - $9000. What I will have to show for it is an older, but very reliable RV that should last me quite a while. When we bought the old girl, we expected to get 4-5 years out of her. Now, I expect to have this gal for 10-15 years. :-) The bottom line is that if you are competent at and have the tools for doing construction, metal and wood working, you can rebuild her. It just takes lots of time and planning, or lots of money to pay a shop. Ok, with all that being said. If the date code on the tires says they really are new, that is $1200 right there. If you are really interested in a project/fixer that could turn out to be a nice RV you own for 10+ years, I would recommend you … 1.) Confirm that it actually drives great and prove the transmission work was done right. Ask for receipts.2.) Confirm the appliances really are all in great shape and operating3.) Confirm that the sides are not buckling 4.) Confirm that from the dinette back, it is in good shape and won’t need structural repairIf all those conditions were met, I would pay no more than -edit- $2500, with the expectation that it will take at least another $2000 and lots of labor.Jose

Potential camper for reconditioning, advice needed

squires5
Explorer
Aug 01, 2013
If you only need one bed- a class A might be less expensive.
If you are not in a rush, I would suggest to take your time, constantly check craigslist and keep your eyes open. As mentioned earlier- right now is peak season commanding top pricing- after labor day you will see prices drop significantly- especially in colder climates.
We did just as I said, spent all of August of 2011 looking and a great deal presented itself around labor day. We purchased from a local reputable dealer who took the unit in on trade and did not want to store it until following spring!
DaHose
Explorer
Jul 31, 2013
You definitely sound like you would use the heck out of an RV that could pull your car.

Class C is the only way to go for me, but why not a class A for you? They are more plentiful and cost less. I would recommend 28 ft. max. Any bigger and finding parking space in town becomes an issue.

Jose
paulgendek
Explorer
Jul 31, 2013
I would also need a truck then. I have a car that is paid off. I could probably get $3000 for it. I was thinking of just getting a 5x8 trailer for the car and hauling my stuff, but I really would like to stay in a camper for a while. I have a "work from home" job that only requires wifi. I can tether with my phone or get a hotspot device, or work at coffee shops, etc. so why not be a nomad for a while?
popeyemth
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
How about a truck with a slide in camper? You can bring all your possessions on/in a trailer...
paulgendek
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
Do you have a link to a good used camper buying guide handy? I can check Craigslist and RV Trader, etc. but won't know what to ask/look for in a used one. This is my first. Thank you for all your time so far.

My budget could be up to $5k, maybe more if it's absolutely worth it.

I am planning on moving in December.
Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
What's the budget, Paul, and when are you thinking of heading up here?
popeyemth
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
In most of the country now is the worst time to shop for a camper cause its the season and there are a lot of folks like you that frankly wanna go camping!
Try Craigslist and bargain papers and estate sales/auction and you might get lucky and find a deal
Otherwise be prepared to pay top dollar for a good used unit.
Good Luck, Mike
paulgendek
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
Wow! Thanks everyone! This is fantastic information, and all during the same business day as my post! What an amazing community! I think you are right in that I shouldn't bother with it, it will probably be more headaches than fun in DIY repairing, when I should just be out camping.

That said, can you point me in the right direction in choosing a reliable used camper that will get me from Florida to Oregon without breaking the bank? I only need 1 bed. Thanks!
popeyemth
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
Spend your time camping, not rebuilding .
If finances are that tight consider a temp part time job like fast food and quickly save up the extra couple of thousand to get a ready to use camper- then use it!
Snowman9000
Explorer
Jul 30, 2013
I've also been through a water damage repair, albeit on a trailer. My advice would be to run away from it. To a buyer who knows how much work and money it's going to take, I would think the max value of it is basically salvage value for the drivetrain. In other words, a couple hundred bucks or so.

So in summary, it's worth 0-500 dollars, and it's going to take A LOT of work and a fair amount of money to fix it. It's a big project, make no mistake.