Pulling a jeep

if your handy with basic hand tools. you can remove a steering wheel locking ring and or the locking device from the steering colume.
just make sure your T case is flat towable as some are not. you would burn up the rear bearing.

Post to original question about key in ignition. I believe, but not positive, that 2009 was the last year that the steering wheel lock was involved. I may be wrong, but best bet is to check owners manual, or, take key out of the ignition and turn steering wheel lock to lock to see if it locks up. If so, need to leave key in ignition and may also have to disconnect battery as part of flat towing the rig. Our is a 2008 JK and we use a "dumb" key to keep wheel unlocked with a built in battery disconnect switch installed. Hope this helps you on the original question.

Tom/Barb wrote:

smj wrote:
Blue Ox makes / made a surge type brake system, also. It fits in between you receiver and tow bar. It works very similar to the Ready Brake. I have both but have never used the blue ox. ( I bought it when I needed a replacement quickly for my ready brake . The ready brake was repaired very quickly, so I didn't need to rework my setup to use the blue ox. It's still in the box).
I use the ready brake to flat tow my 4 door jeep rubicon on 35" tires, about 5000 lbs. It works really well. I have towed over and within the Sierras and the Rockies many times. The jeep brakes aren't applied when using only engine braking down a long grade. They don't activate unless you apply moderate or strong braking of the tow vehicle. I think its a great solution and doesn't require extra parts to be installed in the driver's floor area every time you tow. In fact its a very simple mechanical device with very few parts to fail, no electronics at all. Only special consideration is the tow bar must be within 2" of being level when the rigs are on level ground. This prevents binding of the brake mechanism.

As far as OP, I have a 3.5" lift and 35x12 tires with no wear problems from towing over 10k and 30k+ on this set of tires- KO 2 .
good luck,
Stuart

We use one of THESE

I like this idea ,it requires air brakes and the average "C" lacks that.

smj wrote:
Blue Ox makes / made a surge type brake system, also. It fits in between you receiver and tow bar. It works very similar to the Ready Brake. I have both but have never used the blue ox. ( I bought it when I needed a replacement quickly for my ready brake . The ready brake was repaired very quickly, so I didn't need to rework my setup to use the blue ox. It's still in the box).
I use the ready brake to flat tow my 4 door jeep rubicon on 35" tires, about 5000 lbs. It works really well. I have towed over and within the Sierras and the Rockies many times. The jeep brakes aren't applied when using only engine braking down a long grade. They don't activate unless you apply moderate or strong braking of the tow vehicle. I think its a great solution and doesn't require extra parts to be installed in the driver's floor area every time you tow. In fact its a very simple mechanical device with very few parts to fail, no electronics at all. Only special consideration is the tow bar must be within 2" of being level when the rigs are on level ground. This prevents binding of the brake mechanism.

As far as OP, I have a 3.5" lift and 35x12 tires with no wear problems from towing over 10k and 30k+ on this set of tires- KO 2 .
good luck,
Stuart

We use one of THESE

Blue Ox makes / made a surge type brake system, also. It fits in between you receiver and tow bar. It works very similar to the Ready Brake. I have both but have never used the blue ox. ( I bought it when I needed a replacement quickly for my ready brake . The ready brake was repaired very quickly, so I didn't need to rework my setup to use the blue ox. It's still in the box).
I use the ready brake to flat tow my 4 door jeep rubicon on 35" tires, about 5000 lbs. It works really well. I have towed over and within the Sierras and the Rockies many times. The jeep brakes aren't applied when using only engine braking down a long grade. They don't activate unless you apply moderate or strong braking of the tow vehicle. I think its a great solution and doesn't require extra parts to be installed in the driver's floor area every time you tow. In fact its a very simple mechanical device with very few parts to fail, no electronics at all. Only special consideration is the tow bar must be within 2" of being level when the rigs are on level ground. This prevents binding of the brake mechanism.

As far as OP, I have a 3.5" lift and 35x12 tires with no wear problems from towing over 10k and 30k+ on this set of tires- KO 2 .
good luck,
Stuart

Thanks kd. I'll have a look.

Interesting methodology as described. I'll see if I can find a demo video. Website says it works on anything except old VW Beetles with the "mash it to the floor" brake pedal. Thanks.

Install video was very enlightening, too.

I'm using all Blue Ox hardware, and so far, so good.

MDKMDK wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
Ron asked: "Are you maintaining the stock wheels & tires for towing? "

To the original poster here is my 2 cents when outfitting your rig to tow. Do it right the first time, avoid stick on magnetic lights, get the proper wiring, the hitch, the braking system. I use a hydraulic brake actuator in my hitch. Going cheap means doing it again. RV'ing isn't inexpensive however it is more fun when you just hook up and go.
You will really enjoy having your jeep with you.......

Are you towing on a dolly? I've never heard of using a hydraulic brake actuator built into a hitch, except the forward momentum actuated surge brakes in a tow dolly's hitch/yoke.
How does your hydraulic brake actuator in your hitch work when towing 4 down? Sorry for asking, but I'm relatively new at the towing game myself.

I couldn't think of the brand name so I wrote that but it is called a "ready brake" It slides into the receiver of the RV then the tow bar slides into the ready brake. Check it out.

klutchdust wrote:
Ron asked: "Are you maintaining the stock wheels & tires for towing? "

To the original poster here is my 2 cents when outfitting your rig to tow. Do it right the first time, avoid stick on magnetic lights, get the proper wiring, the hitch, the braking system. I use a hydraulic brake actuator in my hitch. Going cheap means doing it again. RV'ing isn't inexpensive however it is more fun when you just hook up and go.
You will really enjoy having your jeep with you.......

Are you towing on a dolly? I've never heard of using a hydraulic brake actuator built into a hitch, except the forward momentum actuated surge brakes in a tow dolly's hitch/yoke.
How does your hydraulic brake actuator in your hitch work when towing 4 down? Sorry for asking, but I'm relatively new at the towing game myself.

Always make your turns wide as you can, every little bit helps, start wide, turn wide, and end up wide.

never start pulling ahead with the steering wheel cramped over.

When turning left, I start the turn from as far right in my lane as I can cut the turn as short as I can and end up far right in my lane as I can.

every little bit helps.

When I know I'll be in many city type corners I'll put my Jeep up on the trailer, I often do anyway. I can back it up, and it saves wear on the jeep.

and as an after thought, the wear on your jeep is totally dependent upon the over hang of the coach, the longer that is the more your jeep will suffer.

Off Pavement wrote:
Our '97 Wrangler had 4" of lift and 35" tires and towed without any issues or abnormal tire wear at all.

We also tow a lifted (4") jeep with large tires (35.5"). and see no abnormal tire wear. we do rotate every 5 k miles. but see no accelerated wear.

we have about 40k miles on this set, and we have no wear at all. we have towed this set about 15k miles.

TOYO Open Country, 35.5 X 12.5 LT