Refridgerator won't run on AC

luvdoggiez wrote:
So it looks like our Refrigerator has two A/C heater elements. Both of the wire sets look identical and both are labeled as 120 VAC heater elements. Both tested out with the ohm meter at about 73 ohms. So, I'm thinking the control board may have failed. Does anyone know of testing instructions for a board with a part number of 621271?

Thanks for the help!

- Eric -

Did you check the AC fuse on control board?
If you have a 1200 model.....it's a 5A glass fuse
If you have a 1210 model.....it's a 8A glass fuse

Both AC heaters should have a resistance measurement of 58-64 Ohms at ambient temp (must be at ambient for correct reading)
Amp draw should be 1.8A for each heater

IF fuse is good (and fuse clips) you can unplug heaters, wire them directly to 110V AC power source.......run fridge overnight and check temps.
If it cools correctly with heaters wired directly.......control board

Just went through the same problem with my Norcold. Got the answer on this form. My trouble was a blown fuse (The glass fuse) on the control board. Don't check the fuse with out removing it from the board or it will check good but will be blown. Hope this helps. Robbie

1. You CANNOT reset a Norcold control module by disconnecting 120 and 12 volt power, regardless of how long you leave it disconnected.
2. The ONLY way to reset a non functioning Norcold Board (NO CO CODE) is to use a jumper wire to ground OR, doing a specific procedure for the newer module boards that can be reset without the jumper wire.
3. IF the refer works on LP, then there is NO problem that can be fixed by a reset as the board is functioning
4. If ON Auto and you have 120 volts and it runs on LP, then the 99% odds are the 120 fuse on the circuit board is BAD. BUT, for the fuse to go bad, there must be a reason. Usually, 1 of the 2- 120 elements has either a short (will blow the fuse immediately) or an intermittent short that happens when the defective element gets hot. IF the unit is over 10 years old and the 120 fuse blows, it is BEST to replace BOTH 120 elements as well as the fuse. Doug

Reset the GFI.

Terry

vegasfoodguy wrote:
Reset the GFI.

Terry

He stated he checked for 120 at the refer receptacle and had 120 volts. Doug

dougrainer wrote:

vegasfoodguy wrote:
Reset the GFI.

Terry

He stated he checked for 120 at the refer receptacle and had 120 volts. Doug

Sorry, I missed that.

Terry

Hi there everyone,

Ok, so after finding a diagnostic manual on the net, I checked the heater rods and both had 61 ohms of resistance. Since the fuses were good and there was power to the board, the diagnostics said to replace the control board.

I got a new board through Amazon. In looking at the old board, it looks like there was a failure at the main A/C resistor. The board is scorched under the big blue resistor. My question is, for anyone who might have replaced their board, did you have the same problem and did you have any problems after that?

Thanks for the help and the insight!

Eric and Carol Anderson

Well the battery is good or it would not be running on propane.

If this is a Dometic then in the outside compartment on the "Floor" is a terminal board with fuses, Check the fuses. To the left of that is a black box with more fuses, Check those, and all connections.

Also make sure power is getting to the terminal board.

And if all else fails, New black box is indicated (the main control board).

If the replacement circuit board does not cure the problem, check your converter charger. I had a failed Parallex 7455 converter/charger and it acted precisely the way yours is acting. It worked on propane without any problems but would not work in the AC only mode. Regular driving kept the batteries charged so I did not notice the problem until I got into more detailed trouble shooting.