Refrigerator not cooling

You might also look for white stain on the large round part of the cooling rods. It's about the size of a liter bottle if it's really hot to touch it's toast. There is not a great deal of mechanical stuff with these units. They tend to work or not. Consider residential fridge or new unit if that's the case. You might find that repair and replace are close in price. This can be dyi project, it's time consuming be doable with few tools.

May or may not be a "diy" fix. It strictly depends on the refrigerators needs, once it can be properly troubleshot by an expert. It may also need a new heating element. A new refer can run up to $1,500.00, so, there's likely a fix that can be done for far less than $1,000.00 in all likelihood. All refrigerators take two men to lift them out of their cavity and then tackle dismantling the cooling tower from the refrigerator, then either taking it in to the shop for the repair patching, or, sending it off FedEx to the refrigerator repair shop that can handle a proper fix. Look to spend about $300.00 doing this if you have to send it via FedEx roundtrip. You've also got to be trained and knowledgeable in re-caulking the cooling tower to the backside of the refrigerator - then having two men lift the refrigerator back into it's cavity onboard the RV. It's likely impossible for one man, especially if he's a beginner at this type of work.

TNGW1500SE wrote:
I don't smell anything and there's no sign of a leak anywhere. Took the roof cover off and it if clear.
It's been running on gas for hours and the burner stays lit the whole time without any cooling.

Your cooling tower sprung a leak. See last post above. ^^^

TNGW1500SE wrote:
It's been level for 24 hours and turned on
The green light is on
It's a model # N611
It's not cooling at all.
The interior light comes on when you open the door.
The Gas lights when I switch it over to gas
Has 110 volts at the plug
the bottom pipe where it goes into the burner is "warm" (could be called "hot")
The flue is "good and hot" so it's heating
When I switch to gas the yellow gas light comes on and does not flash

BUT it will not cool down inside at all.

Anything I could try?
I have a multimeter here.

Your cooling tower has either sprung a leak, or, your heating element is bad on 110AC. One or the other. Take it to an RV Dometic/Norcold refrigerator repair shop to troubleshoot the exact problem(s) and fix. They'll be able to give you a cost estimate too.

Measure your opening and google fridges with those dimensions. I replaced my Norcold 1200 with a Samsung. It was only 6" taller so no biggie on making it fit. Picked up 8 cu ft of fridge space, cold beer and frozen ice cream....Dennis

prstlk wrote:
You might also look for white stain on the large round part of the cooling rods. It's about the size of a liter bottle if it's really hot to touch it's toast. There is not a great deal of mechanical stuff with these units. They tend to work or not. Consider residential fridge or new unit if that's the case. You might find that repair and replace are close in price. This can be dyi project, it's time consuming be doable with few tools.
pm if you need details.
jw

Well... I think it's "toast". The one liter bottle looking doohicky is what I'd call "hot" and I've tested about everything I can think of.

I don't really need one that runs on gas so I don't see any reason to spend big bucks on this one.

Looks like somebody would make a direct replacement that was just a residential style unit. Any ideas on one that might fit through the door?

You might also look for white stain on the large round part of the cooling rods. It's about the size of a liter bottle if it's really hot to touch it's toast. There is not a great deal of mechanical stuff with these units. They tend to work or not. Consider residential fridge or new unit if that's the case. You might find that repair and replace are close in price. This can be dyi project, it's time consuming be doable with few tools.
pm if you need details.
jw

Flanz wrote:
I'll bet your cooling unit is shot....Same thing happened to my fridge. Get to the back of the fridge and put your head inside the back and take a BIG sniff. See if you smell ammonia. If you do, dead. When mine died I only smelled a little bit, but when I got that sucker out boy did I smell it...

-paul

I don't smell anything and there's no sign of a leak anywhere. Took the roof cover off and it if clear.
It's been running on gas for hours and the burner stays lit the whole time without any cooling.

I'll bet your cooling unit is shot....Same thing happened to my fridge. Get to the back of the fridge and put your head inside the back and take a BIG sniff. See if you smell ammonia. If you do, dead. When mine died I only smelled a little bit, but when I got that sucker out boy did I smell it...

-paul

Since I could only leave the MH at our condo for a limited time I would get 2 # of dry ice to give a boost. If off level by a lot you can do permanent damage to your frig. Mine always worked much better when driving. The motion helps wit the ammonia circulation

You could try unplugging the thermistor. This will cause the cooling unit to go to max cooling. However,when the thermistor goes bad it usually causes over cooling,but I guess it cold be shorted out and cause no cooling. Anyway it is easy to try.
Good Luck Don