Rubber Roofs

I've bought 7 RVs since 1989, none of which, other than the 31C Itasca I bought last June, and will never use myself, had fiberglass roofs. All but a 1997 Coachmen Class C, which I bought in 2008,and the 31C were bought new.
I've never had a problem with a rubber or EPDM roof or whatever roof my 1989 Coleman pop up came with. The only roof related problem I had was with a 1995 Four Winds Class C which came with an aluminum roof. Within the first year, electrolysis started in the cabover roof. My selling dealer pulled off the aluminum roof and replaced it with a rubber or EPDM roof (I forget which), which Four Winds covered.
I did replace the rubber roof on my 1997 Coachmen in 2012, because it was looking a little worn, and my son does that kind of work for a living, so it was cheap enough. That roof was 15 years old, and could have lasted a few years longer, but I decided to replace it.
I would prefer a fiberglass roof, but would (obviously) never consider a non fiberglass roof a deal breaker.

I think that fear of rubber roofs is somewhat overblown, probably because many have bought an old, poorly maintained, leaky rig as their first RV or have seen or read horror stories about costly repair of water damage. Our 2004 Tioga has a rubber/plastic roof that does not leak and had been minimally maintained. All roofs have vents and air conditioning that units that make large holes in the roof that must be kept sealed throughout the life of the rig. Damage from objects that rip the material must be repaired. Leaks in the clearance lights and front window on the overhead must be inspected for and fixed when needed.
Weep holes in the side window frames must be kept clear for drainage or water may come inside. When buying a used rig, check overall roof, vent, and overhead for inside and out for evidence of leaks including smells and stains etc., inside.

mlts22 wrote:
This gets me wondering:

I've seen Eternabond in 48" by 50 foot lengths. I wonder what would happen if one used three overlapping layers of the stuff on the entire roof.

Seems to me you'd just be creating a glued-down rubber roof, more or less, but using rather more difficult to work with products and with a couple of (well-sealed) seams down the middle. (At least, I think I would find it more difficult to work with; getting a 30' long strip of tape straight and even while pulling the backing paper off doesn't sound like much fun, even if it's not windy.)

The trouble spots with rubber (and most other) roofs are where the roof has to seal to something else--be it the side wall or something that projects through the roof. Making the roof membrane out of Eternabond tape isn't going to alter that too much. You could use a normal rubber membrane and seal the edges and perforations with Eternabond instead of (or preferably in addition to) more traditional sealants like Dicor.

I had a really old Class C with a one-piece sheet aluminum roof and two MHs with rubber roofs, both over 12 years old when sold. Never had problems with any of them. Rubber, I think, has proved itself over the years.

This gets me wondering:

I've seen Eternabond in 48" by 50 foot lengths. I wonder what would happen if one used three overlapping layers of the stuff on the entire roof.

My rubber roof is also 15 years old and fine. Big problem with roofs (All kinds) is the seams. Any cracks or bad looking areas should be looked after. I use Dicor lap sealant. Others like other products but the dicor stays some what soft and can be removed with a plastic putty knife if a small area needs replacing. And a small area will blend in with the old seam. Remember the roof is a large flat area that is working and twisting all the time so keep an eye on all the seams.. In all truth I think and rubber roofs are the best after spending a couple weeks helping a friend replace much of his fiber glass roof. There is no real fix it once and forget it product no matter what others say. I am not saying Dicor is the best just the easiest to work with over the years..

If I had my choice of roof, it would be a one piece aluminum roof that is "cupped" so it extends a few inches down the sides. After that, a fiberglass roof. Both of those tend to have fewer seams, and are more resistant to punctures. Of course, aluminum is more vulnerable to hail damage, but in general, the rigs I see that use aluminum roofs tend to last quite a long time, and if they leak, it is due to a hole due to some vent or skylight.

I wouldn't factor out rubber roofed rigs out completely, if the price is right... but they do take more time to inspect and reseal. EPDM roofs are naturally black, so they will "weep" and leave streaks in the rain, while TPO roofs are white.

Of course, my absolute favorite roof would be an aluminum or fiberglass roof, then have that covered by an elastomer spray, so there are no seams whatsoever on the top, even around vents and fittings. A twig might puncture the elastomer, but most likely wouldn't get through the harder layer underneath.

there are different kinds of rubber roofs. the new ones dont leave
black streaks, warranty 10 years , easy to repair. our dealer does
a free roof check. just be careful of branches

Mine is rubber and it's just fine even after 15 years. Biggest issue is that falling limbs or running under a branch might tear a hole in it. All roof types have their needs for maintenance. Some people swear by fiberglass roofs, others swear at them. Look around all the vents, fans, skylights for places where the rubber may have been pulled away or damaged when someone was recaulking, inspect for places where the rubber may be torn, feel with your feet for spongy spots.

A well maintained rubber roof will last a very long time.

I like mine too. My first roof type looked like they used the extra siding. Huge difference now.