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Geocritter's avatar
Geocritter
Explorer
Sep 22, 2013

Shock absorber replacement nightmare

I was humbled today by a normally simple maintenance job on my 1994 33’ Holiday Rambler. So far I haven’t even been able to remove nut #1 on the front passenger side shock absorber. I’ve done nearly all my own car repairs for the last 50 years and never thought I’d have a problem doing such a normally simple chore as replacing shock absorbers. I’m plagued by two issues:
(1) compared to cars and pickups everything is super-sized
(2) the RV spent many years in the rust belt and most of the nuts and bolts have a good deal of corrosion.
So far I’m still fighting with nut #1, which is the bottom, easily accessible nut that attaches the bottom of the shock to the axle. I’ve heated it with a butane torch, put penetrating oil on it, and then repeated several times. Next using my 1/2” drive breaker bar and 3’ long cheater I attempted to break the nut loose, to no avail. I also tried using a torque multiplier wrench, still no joy. Tomorrow I’m running up to my storage space in Austin and fetching back a small oxyacetylene torch I own (unfortunately not a cutting torch) to really heat it. I’m also going to purchase the first 3/4" drive breaker bar and sockets I’ve ever owned in 50 years. I’m not sure what I’ll do if this fails. I realize that a truck repair outfit would torch off the offending nut, that is if their Godzilla sized air impact wrench couldn’t break it lose. Unfortunately, I don’t have the luxury of such tools. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do next? My real fear is, how do I get the nuts and bolts off that aren’t as accessible. I can’t afford the Godzilla sized air impact wrench I appear to need, however I do have a 20 gallon 100psi air compressor.

Also, a while back someone asked about replacing shocks, I humbly stand corrected and apologize for saying it was a straightforward and easy task. I was half right anyhow, straightforwards yes, easy… without the right tools no. And just because you have the right tools for your car or pickup doesn't mean they're the right tools for your class A MH.

Steve
  • Can't speak to your Class A but when I saw how hard it was to change the shocks on my E350 I was extremely glad that I waited until they have a "free install" promotion. I could hear the mechanic cursing inside the waiting room.
  • Unless you are in a hurry, continue "worrying" it. Heat/cold with overnight soaking with penetrating oil. I use 50/50 acetone/ATF.

    If that doesn't work, since it is a lower nut and you have access, I would use a hacksaw to cut through the nut parallel to the threads. Basically the same as a nut splitter, but you probably already have a good hacksaw.
  • Applying heat will go a long way. If that does not do the trick, then I would consider taking it to a shop where they have the proper equipment.
  • dakdave wrote:
    nut splitters are a joke to try and use. if your shocks have a metal sleeve the bolts go threw many times the bolt will be rusted to the sleeve and you have cut both ends of bolt or cut shock eye apart.be sure and turn nut and not bolt if you can


    As someone that has taken apart and restored many OLD Classics, the nut splitters work great if you use the right one and you know what you are doing. Since the OP said he was having a problem with a NUT, the solution was obvious. If he is having a problem with a bolt, that is different.
  • nut splitters are a joke to try and use. if your shocks have a metal sleeve the bolts go threw many times the bolt will be rusted to the sleeve and you have cut both ends of bolt or cut shock eye apart.be sure and turn nut and not bolt if you can
  • light truck wrenching and heavy truck wrenching are two different worlds, as you are finding out! And in my opinion, best left to those who have the proper equipment and facilities.
  • considering what you are going to pay for tools and headaches,maybe you should let a truck shop do the job.
    just a thought dave
  • Use an inexpensive tool called a Nut Splitter. This will split the nut and allow it to basically just drop off without damaging the threads.