Toilet Removal

Called Dometic yesterday and explained that my bowl was a little loose and they sent me a new complete toilet. I received it this afternoon and looked at it and noticed how its put together. Looks just like yours. Now I thinking that I might take mine off and try to tighten and reinstall, if that doesn't work I'll install the new one. Thanks for taking the pictures.

Here you go. There are 4 bolts that you access with a looooonnng screwdriver or a 5/16 nut driver from underneath. I'd be careful how tight you go. As you can see clamps are plastic. I'd guess they're pretty easy to strip.

Do a twist to get it off the flange if you cannot get the nut off the screws. I didn't and broke my flange. Also, don't over tighten to the flange. I did and broke it. Good news is the local hardware store flanges worked fine. Good luck.

turbojimmy wrote:
If you have a similar model I can post pics of what the clamps, base and o-ring look like. Let me know...

I have a 310 series and the bowl is loose not to bad and I called dometic and they are sending me a new toilet and don't want the old one back. Would like to try and tighten the old one because there is nothing wrong with it but a loose bowl which is not that bad. I was surprised when they offered a new toilet, but I am not gonna say NO. If you would post a couple of pic's that would help me. Thanks in Advance...

I just pulled our toilet, a Thetford Style II in our 5th wheel, because of a defective water valve. Camping world in Orlando had the parts I needed, including the rubber seal. Turned out to be a much easier repair than I had planned on having to do. Took about an hour plus the time to run to the store for the parts. We were camping in Orlando at the time.

The ceramic bowl was held to the plastic base by two bolts, after the locking tabs were turned about 1/8 of a turn.

I just went through this wonderful experience with the dometic 511. The plastic floor flange broke due to rusting bolts that hold the toilet down. It's a rubber gasket between the toilet base and the floor flange.

Fred

A wax toilet seal should never be used in an RV. The vibration associated with moving from place to place eggs out the wax, leaving a gap where sewer gases can escape into the RV interior. Always use a rubber seal...

Found the manufacturer name and model number. Called the manufacturer and they said yes the bowl can be tightened to the base with the two bolts on the back side of the toilet. They told me if I don't have enough room between the wall and the toilet that it would have to be removed to tighten the bolts. The seal can be reused but they recommend a new one.. Thanks for everyones help.... Roy :)

It's not a wax seal like a house - it's a rubber seal. They're usually installed on the toilet, which rests on a flange to which the toilet is bolted. The toilet is easy to remove - like a house toilet - 2 nuts.

Your bowl being loose from the base could be an issue depending on what's happened. I've read - but never experience personally - that early Dometic China bowls can break loose from the plastic base. Hopefully you'll find that you can just tighten the clamps. I have a new Dometic China toilet and there are clamps that you can tighten from underneath. Again, I haven't had to mess with it and I'm not sure you should have to mess with it.

To make a long story longer, the first new Dometic 320 I bought was apparently dropped from a tall building by UPS. The China part was dust. I kept everything else, though, as the seller didn't want the broken toilet back. If you have a similar model I can post pics of what the clamps, base and o-ring look like. Let me know...

Rwake901 wrote:

downtheroad wrote:
I've pulled 2 of them...on different trailers. Both had a rubber seal/ring.

If it is a rubber seal/o-ring can it be reused?

I suppose it can be re-used. But a new fresh, clean one is very inexpensive and easy to get. That's what I did each time.