Water Heater, How long do they last?

Ramair wrote:
One other think that you could look at is the t-stat that controls the element, I have had to replace mine once, there should be 2, one for the electric side and the other is for the propane side, should be under the black cover. Hope this helps..

Atwood uses one set of t-stats for BOTH electric & gas operation.
Suburban uses two sets-----one 120V AC set for electric and one 12V DC set for gas.

JimM68 wrote:
I'm thinking you may be incorret about access to the electric elements and control.
In my experience, all of this is accessable through the outside access door.

In most, the electric element is more or less an addon, and easily accessable through the outside panel.

Atwood t-stats are in outside compartment but electric element is accessed from the backside of tank (inside rig)
Suburban t-stats and electric element are accessed in outside compartment.

Provided they are dual heat water heaters.

Aftermarket heating rods are installed via drain holes....a whole different set-up with different ideas/opinions on their use.




OP........
Electric heating quit.
Check AC circuit breaker....turn it fully off and then back on to reset if it has tripped.
Your year/model also uses a 12V DC power (to ON/Off switch and then to a relay to allow 120V AC power to element)
Access to relay and element are on backside of WH tank under a protective cover.
Element is cheap and easy to replace once you gain access.
No need to replace WH. (You'd have to access the backside to disconnect plumbing, wiring etc in order to replace a perfectly good WH----$$$$$/PITA)
Just replace the element---1400W (Atwood #92249) $18

Are you sure you're getting power to the HWH? Could be the switch.

I'm thinking you may be incorre t about access to the electric elements and control.
In my experience, all of this is accessable through the outside access door.

In most, the electric element is more or less an addon, and easily accessable through the outside panel.

19 years and never used the propane just the electric and it is going strong.

Our electric element went out and quit heating - we replaced it cheap and now works very well. Keeps water hot enough we don't even need to turn on the propane even in 30 temps. 13 years old and going strong.

Of course it's your call on what you want to do? My water heater is 10 years old and still working.

One other think that you could look at is the t-stat that controls the element, I have had to replace mine once, there should be 2, one for the electric side and the other is for the propane side, should be under the black cover. Hope this helps..

You don't need to replace the water heater. Sounds like only the electric heating element is dead. This is caused by 2 things. The same is true in your home electric water heater.

1. The heater was turned on when there was no water in it, and it only took about 10 seconds (or less) to burn out the element.

2. Calcium build up on the bottom of the tank is now touching the heating element, causing it to short out, which means, it's dead and needs to be replaced, but the calcium build up needs to be clean out too. This is true in your home, the bottom heating element is usually the first go because lime builds up on the bottom of home water heaters and over several years, it gets deeper and deeper, until it touches the element. The top element will keep heating, so this could go for a long time before you realize the bottom element is not working, if you don't have high volume hot water usage in your home.

But, RV water heaters only have 1 element. So when they go! There's no second back-up!

Keep the heater, change the element.

20 years and still going.

No, it will last many years more. Generally the only reason the electric heating part fails is because it was turned on dry.