Forum Discussion

TUCQUALA's avatar
TUCQUALA
Explorer
Oct 27, 2013

Dual Cam Snap Up Comments

Having towed for 10 yrs with my old round bar DrawTite hitch, I have never had any of the "common" dual cam problems, ie: broken cams, cracked cast heads (trunnion of course!), or the famous bent snap up or chain brackets. Until yesterday!!

Cequent recently replaced my old round bar hitch with a complete new 1200# kit (see previous post on cracked round bar head). Sat morning, I installed new head on draw bar, hooked up without bars, went to a level parking lot that I have used in the past. Unhooked, measured both ball height on trailer and unhooked ball height on Excursion. Ex was approx 1/2" higher than level trailer ball height, just as should be. Installed bars, did preliminary adj to cams, readjust ball mount angle, and got the bars reasonably close to "perfection", as if there really is a perfect setting with a dual cam!!

Headed home around a longer route to get a feel for the new hitch. First turn out of parking lot, sounded like someone took a shot next to me!! I figured that was to be expected on new bars on worn cams. Needed to make aboot 6 turns, mostly left, to get home. Each turn, in either direction was the same, a grinding and then a huge bang that could be felt through the Ex like you hit a pothole at 60mph. OK, some embellishment (!!), but I know the dual cams can be noisy, but the old set up never was like this.

This new hitch is very pretty, shiny, looks like they are using an epoxy paint. I believe the new paint was being ground off and building up between the cam and the bar ramp. Home, I unhooked, and found the left snap up (old style) loose. It was bent slightly at the bottom and the bolt dented the inside of the frame about 1/16". The right side was ok, and tight. On the trip home, left turns were 4 to 2, and it seemed that the left turn was the noisiest.

Now, the new hitch came with the new heavy duty snap ups, and this may not have happened if I had put them on, but I was going to wait since I may have to move the bottles slightly since the new ones are wider and the old ones tucked right up side the bottle pan. Also, in checking them today, I found that the new ones don't mount squarely to the frame, they have a slight rocking motion when placed (not permanently) on the frame. Anybody noticed this before??

I am going to bolt the new ones on, but I thought about a different method other than just drilling one hole for a self tapping bolt. What would the gang here think about drilling a hole on the inside of the frame just larger than the pinch bolt and then running it all the way into the frame and tightening on the inside of the outer frame. Being just under the top of the frame, it would seem to me to have a stronger attachment and resistance to twisting forces.

There was a string on the Jayco forum discussing the attachment of the snap ups on Jaycos. In fact, in the latest installation pdf, Cequent states if you have a Jayco with a bottom mounted coupler you should bolt on with one bolt. They also stated to a site member that the snap ups only needed the one bolt near the top center since it is the strongest place to put it!

Love to hear any comments on my idea from the hitch and dual cam experts.


Gerry


PS: Jury is still out on the new style round bar system!! Old one was fast hook up, didn't have to drop chains, but now have to to swing the bars in towards the trailer. Oh well, that's progress!!

19 Replies

  • ktmrfs's avatar
    ktmrfs
    Explorer III
    mrekim wrote:
    TUCQUALA wrote:
    Yes, the snap up is bent slightly outward, and evenly across, just below the sides where it hinges.



    WOW.

    I'm thinking that you may be really lucky you were using the older snap ups. I suspect that if there was enough force at the face of the frame to bend the snap up there, that there's a good chance the frame would have bent if you were using the heavy duty ones, since they would most likely not bend there.

    Did you put a straight edge on the frame where the snap up mounts?


    IMHO the 1200lb and up bars need the HD bracket. Also, not sure that the HD ones would have done any frame damage. In fact might have prevented it. Looking at the brackets, what happens is that w/o the extra support gussett the HD bracket have, if you get much doutward force from the chain, it will cause the std bracket to bend on the outside surface. that then trys to pull the inside towards the frame as it moves in and up, causing the bolt to dig into the frame.

    On the HD brackets, the gussett supports the weak point that tries to bend outward from downward/outward cam forces. And also support the "U" section at the top from deflecting.

    BTW, if the OP has the new style cam setup, are you sure you positioned the chain bracket to cam arm correctly?? any chance the bend at the top faces outward rather than inward??? If so, that may be part of the cause of the failure. If the bracket bend faces outward, then the chain is not pulling straight down on the bracket, it is pulling at an angle outward putting lots of force on the snap up bracket in a manner it isn't designed to see.
    If it's the old style, any chance that the bar is hitting the cam?? again that can cause some bad forces on the cam arm and snap up bracket.

    OP if you can post a picture of the bent bracket it can tell a lot about what may have happened.
  • TUCQUALA wrote:
    Yes, the snap up is bent slightly outward, and evenly across, just below the sides where it hinges.



    WOW.

    I'm thinking that you may be really lucky you were using the older snap ups. I suspect that if there was enough force at the face of the frame to bend the snap up there, that there's a good chance the frame would have bent if you were using the heavy duty ones, since they would most likely not bend there.

    Did you put a straight edge on the frame where the snap up mounts?
  • Yes, the snap up is bent slightly outward, and evenly across, just below the sides where it hinges. The upper piece that goes over the frame, and the pinch bolt is in, is not bent. at all. My older s-ups do not have any holes. I believe the holes are fairly recent construction. I'll add a pic of the bent one tomorrow.
  • TUCQUALA wrote:
    bending it at the bottom and pulling the bolt hard against the inside frame, thus the dent.


    Are you saying that the snap up bent where it touches the face of the frame - near the two square holes?
  • John, my DC is the late model HP, have had it on since '04, with 750# & 1000# round bars with no problems with either. I'll try to get some pics if the weather holds up tomorrow.

    I find it hard to believe that the new 1200# bars would require frame reinforcement if not for the indentation. My opinion is the paint jamming the bar and putting excessive down force on the cam or jamming for a slight moment and then releasing explosively, pulling at the snap up sharply and bending it at the bottom and pulling the bolt hard against the inside frame, thus the dent.

    This new paint is very thick, and comes off in pretty thick (for a paint film) pieces. One time, just for yucks (!!), I used some light grease on the 1K bars to see if there was any difference in feel. Halfway through a 200+ mile trip, dirt and metal dust from the bars and cams built up on the bars and the noise level and snapping in turns increased a great deal. Cleaning off both stopped the roughness and the noise level was almost zero. Thus my case for the paint on old cams being a major culprit in this. I never thought that I should remove or reduce the amount of paint on the bars where they ride on the cams before using. I would ass-ume that a new smooth cam and new bar would work together smoothly and wear in together.

    I also understand your reasoning for not using the bolt to pinch against the outside frame, although in a perfect situation (like I'm sure Cequent thinks with the tapping screw!!) there would never be a problem with the idea!! I'll have to decide before Spring what method to mount the snap ups, the damage is minor, no other bending or denting on the left side, and the right has only a mark from the bolt being tightened.

    I have been following mrekim's thread, and any thread with DC problems. As I wrote, I have never had any problems with the snap ups, even with the 1000# bars for the last 3+ yrs. His much more severe damage with the associated necessary repairs made me think about other fixes after discovering the problem.

    Not meaning to be argumentive, just rambling and thinking out loud!!
  • TUCQUALA wrote:
    Each turn, in either direction was the same, a grinding and then a huge bang that could be felt through the Ex like you hit a pothole at 60mph.


    I experienced grinding and pops, but nothing like what you describe above. Especially when going around "normal" turns.
  • JBarca wrote:

    Through bolts with a 1/4" backer plate the entire height of the frame to help spread the load out can be a better option.


    Can this be done in the top hole location? I did a quick look last week and it seemed like it might interfere with the pinch bolt on the other side.
  • TUCQUALA wrote:

    I found that the new ones don't mount squarely to the frame, they have a slight rocking motion when placed (not permanently) on the frame. Anybody noticed this before??

    Mine don't mount squarely either.


    TUCQUALA wrote:

    I am going to bolt the new ones on, but I thought about a different method other than just drilling one hole for a self tapping bolt. What would the gang here think about drilling a hole on the inside of the frame just larger than the pinch bolt and then running it all the way into the frame and tightening on the inside of the outer frame. Being just under the top of the frame, it would seem to me to have a stronger attachment and resistance to twisting forces.


    I would be concerned about the bolt wanting to push up from under the frame causing the top of the frame to buckle or rip.

    I think some kind of re-enforcement plate might be better. Maybe on both sides. Inside handles the force of the pinch bolt and outside handles the forces applies to the center of the A frame face from the snap up and the DC when they try to twist.

    Also, it's not clear that the self tapping screws are the best approach for a thin tube frame. Rivnuts or a through bolting with proper support to prevent the bolt from crushing the tube may be better.


    I'm no expert, but hopefully this helps and gives something to think about until the experts chime in.




    [edit] ok JBarca is one of those experts, we must have been typing at the same time...

    Also, since you seem to have experience some issues already, try to implement whatever beefing up strategy you have before even an around the block tow.

    [/edit]
  • Hi Gary,

    Any chance of a side pic of your new hitch setup?

    Do you have the old style DC with the U bolts holding them to the frame or the newer HP DC that bolts to the frame?

    To the snap up's, please if possible take a pic of the 1/16" dent from the snap up set screw that just happend. This has shown up in another thread about tublar frame crush.

    I would "not" drill a hole through the frame to allow the set screw to pinch the far side inside. This will not prevent the snap up from starting to slide down which can be a problem on some 1000# and up hitches. The top of the snap up can still start to spring open and you get the bent bracket. And yes I have seen both the older and new snap ups that are not bent 90 degrees to sit flat on the frame.

    I would bolt the snap up brackets to the frame and favor the top of the hole with the bolt so the bracket canot slide down. I myself would not use self tapping screws. If your frame already dented 1/16" from just the set screw pressure, that tube frame seems to point to being easy to get tube crush so to speak. Through bolts with a 1/4" backer plate the entire height of the frame to help spread the load out can be a better option.

    Once I can see your setup I can make some more comments about what may be going on.

    See this thread on member mrekim, it will help where I am coming from on tubular frame crush. DC setup

    Do you know your loaded tougue weight?

    Hope this helps

    John

About RV Tips & Tricks

Looking for advice before your next adventure? Look no further.25,157 PostsLatest Activity: Aug 25, 2025