Forum Discussion
keymastr
Dec 09, 2017Explorer
I would add one thing here, the Equalizer manual and Ford both agree on the front fender height restoration being between 50% and 100%. Ignore the axle WEIGHTS other than not going over the gross axle weight ratings. The manual only talks about fender HEIGHT since most people don't have access to scales when doing initial setup.. All of JBarca's info is spot on otherwise and his ball height suggestion is spot on.
You may have to go through the whole procedure a couple times before you get the whole setup correct. When you are done the trailer will be level, the bars will be parallel to the trailer frame and your fender height will be within that 50% - 100% range. Then you can go for a drive and confirm your axle weights are not exceeded at the scales.
Mine took 5 washers to get the correct fender height and it is a pain in the butt to have to take the shank apart to add or subtract washers but that is what changes the ball angle and the ball angle changes how much weight is transferred. I think that your trailer being so nose down was affecting how the hitch was transferring weight so that should improve also. I will guess that your brackets will need to be raised once the trailer is level in order to keep the bars parallel to the trailer frame.
I also noticed when my hitch was new that the sway control worked much better after a couple hundred miles when the paint wore off of the bars and brackets. I guess the raw steel has more friction than the painted steel. Good luck, you are on the right path now and will have it dialed in in a couple hours. :)
You may have to go through the whole procedure a couple times before you get the whole setup correct. When you are done the trailer will be level, the bars will be parallel to the trailer frame and your fender height will be within that 50% - 100% range. Then you can go for a drive and confirm your axle weights are not exceeded at the scales.
Mine took 5 washers to get the correct fender height and it is a pain in the butt to have to take the shank apart to add or subtract washers but that is what changes the ball angle and the ball angle changes how much weight is transferred. I think that your trailer being so nose down was affecting how the hitch was transferring weight so that should improve also. I will guess that your brackets will need to be raised once the trailer is level in order to keep the bars parallel to the trailer frame.
I also noticed when my hitch was new that the sway control worked much better after a couple hundred miles when the paint wore off of the bars and brackets. I guess the raw steel has more friction than the painted steel. Good luck, you are on the right path now and will have it dialed in in a couple hours. :)
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