Forum Discussion

2500_Grunt's avatar
2500_Grunt
Explorer
Mar 12, 2014

Receiver tube/hitch shank slack or play?

Has anyone ever tried to shim their TV's 2" receiver tube to eliminate some of the play when the shank is installed? I'm talking about when you slide in your hitch shank into the receiver tube and install the pin. This new hitch that I installed recently seems to have a little more room for the shank to move around in than the last one that I had? I realize that there needs to be some extra clearance for it to be installed easy but this one seems to be much more than I would like. Having a TH with a tongue weight of about 2200# I'm not sure if it would even move much once loaded? Just curious. Did not find anything on here using my search phrases?

8 Replies

  • Drill 2 1/2 inch holes into the receiver tube one on the top and one in the side, next get two 1 inch long 1/2inch coarse threaded nuts and bolts, put some anti seize compound on the threads and thread the nut all the way on. Next insert into the two holes and weld the nut to the receiver tube, after it cools back off the jamb bolt and insert the hitch put the pin in and tighten the bolts down, the hitch won't move again until you back off the jamb bolts.
  • jdog wrote:
    If you pull a car with that play and more so when you need to raise or lower with an adapter meaning 2 connections, the play adds up enough to cause the tail wagging the dog effect. It will throw your rear end around. Drill a 1/2 " hole on the side and on top. Weld a 7/16" nut on the out side of each hole. Use a 7/16" bolt to tighten up against the tube eliminating the play. Be sure to use a jam nut so the bolt won't loosen up. The silent hitch from CW only is good for one direction. The play is up/down and side/side. Moves 2 directions. Blue OX makes one that locks both directions.


    That sounds interesting but I think I might try to shim one side with some flat metal and bend and tack it to the outside of the receiver tube?
  • ChooChooMan74 wrote:
    2" receiver and 2200lbs of tongue? Even the best torklift reciever is good for 2000, and the 2 1/2" are 1700.

    Source: eTrailer.com

    We had a thread on another forum about receiver slop with some ideas. Most of this was about Motorhomes towing a toad.

    Receiver slop on another forum.


    That 2200# is actually over my rear axle plus or minus some. Scaled it last trip with 6k loaded over rear axle which included a 400# quad and about another 150# of stuff in bed of truck plus one adult, 2 kids and a 70# dog. Truck rear axle weight empty is just under 3K. Towed fine with about 30psi in rear air bags but might make an adjustment to put more # over front axle. My Curt hitch is rated for 17k GTW and a WD hitch tongue weight of 2550# and tire rating of 3750# so I'm good.

    Curt 15409: http://www.curtmfg.com/Search?term=15409
  • If you pull a car with that play and more so when you need to raise or lower with an adapter meaning 2 connections, the play adds up enough to cause the tail wagging the dog effect. It will throw your rear end around. Drill a 1/2 " hole on the side and on top. Weld a 7/16" nut on the out side of each hole. Use a 7/16" bolt to tighten up against the tube eliminating the play. Be sure to use a jam nut so the bolt won't loosen up. The silent hitch from CW only is good for one direction. The play is up/down and side/side. Moves 2 directions. Blue OX makes one that locks both directions.
  • Beverley&Ken wrote:
    We use this, Quiet Hitch. When torqued to spec, it makes the draw bar rock solid.

    Beverley and Ken


    I did something similar to that concept using a hardware U-bracket. Mine stops my lightweight kayak trailer from rattling the ball mount and it works great! Not sure it would hold up with a TT, though.
  • Weld a few spots on the shaft and grind down till a snug fit.
    Frank

About RV Tips & Tricks

Looking for advice before your next adventure? Look no further.25,142 PostsLatest Activity: Jun 20, 2025