What should the PSI be in the trailer?

fj12ryder wrote:

time2roll wrote:
The oem tires call for 110... I would be running 110 minimum.

Why?

Because the engineers that put the sticker on the trailer decided to put "110" in the box for inflation pressure.

Do you weigh your vehicle to use less pressure than the door sticker on all your vehicles?

You can do as you please. I simply stated what I would do.

fj12ryder wrote:

time2roll wrote:
The oem tires call for 110... I would be running 110 minimum.

Why? If you're getting good wear patterns and no issues with running lower pressures why would you blindly follow recommendations that are based on "E" rated ST tires? "G" rated LT/ST tires don't show the "B-Ball" effect, their sidewalls are too stiff for that to happen. There's quite a bit of data that suggests there's no reason to blindly follow the "Use Maximum Pressure" suggestions. Good wear patterns, long life, not beating your trailer to death, all good reasons to run lower pressures on "G" rated tires.

JMO of course, and I will continue to recommend that people with "G" rated tires experiment with air pressure until they find what works best for them.

Hey there is the BLIND way to go thru life using the CYA method or one can actually use their BRAIN and do what is BEST for their situation. I prefer the latter. ;)

B.O. Plenty wrote:

MarkTwain wrote:

rbp111 wrote:
I have a trailer which has Sailun G rated tires. The maximum PSI of air is listed as 110 PSI. I was carrying 90 PSI but recently was told that the maximum PSI, that is 110 PSI is the amount of air I need to carry.
Which is the amount I should have in the tires?

Look on the side of the tire. The max PSI number is on the side. I run the max psi when I am towing and then run 65 non towing.

Why do you let the pressure down when parked? They still have to support the weight. I don't understand what there is to gain.
B.O.

He obviously mis read the post and thought the OP was referring to TV tires.

Lantley wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Give GY Tech a call and ask them what to do when going from a "E" to "G" tire. They will tell you to use the chart and add 5psi.

Why do you think they make the chart? MOST RV's axle rating is determined buy the tires capacity at MAX psi.

E rated tires are rated 80 PSI max. Adding 5#'s will give you 85PSI.
I don't think 85 PSI gives me the maximum cargo capacity,ability, performance of a 110 PSI tire.
I prefer to skip the charts and go straight to the max. I do think it's a good idea to monitor the wear for the B-ball effect as mentioned in JIMNLIN's post above.

WHERE did I say anything about adding 5psi to an "E" tire???

I DID add 5psi to the chart for the "G" tires that made 85psi the correct pressure. Many thousands of miles with perfect tread wear and cool running even in temps North of 100.

time2roll wrote:
The oem tires call for 110... I would be running 110 minimum.

Why? If you're getting good wear patterns and no issues with running lower pressures why would you blindly follow recommendations that are based on "E" rated ST tires? "G" rated LT/ST tires don't show the "B-Ball" effect, their sidewalls are too stiff for that to happen. There's quite a bit of data that suggests there's no reason to blindly follow the "Use Maximum Pressure" suggestions. Good wear patterns, long life, not beating your trailer to death, all good reasons to run lower pressures on "G" rated tires.

JMO of course, and I will continue to recommend that people with "G" rated tires experiment with air pressure until they find what works best for them.

The oem tires call for 110... I would be running 110 minimum.

MarkTwain wrote:

rbp111 wrote:
I have a trailer which has Sailun G rated tires. The maximum PSI of air is listed as 110 PSI. I was carrying 90 PSI but recently was told that the maximum PSI, that is 110 PSI is the amount of air I need to carry.
Which is the amount I should have in the tires?

Look on the side of the tire. The max PSI number is on the side. I run the max psi when I am towing and then run 65 non towing.

Why do you let the pressure down when parked? They still have to support the weight. I don't understand what there is to gain.
B.O.

Honestly the B-ball effect often referenced is only going to be visible on the soft sidewall ST tires. A good LT tire isn't going to demonstrate any B-ball effect. Perhaps that's why you can run an LT tire at pressures other than maximum with no deleterious effects.

When I replaced my "E" rated ST tires with "G" rated LT/ST tires, I compared the sidewall stiffness. The Carlisle "E" rated ST tires had sidewalls like tissue paper compared to the Sailun "G" rated LT/ST tires.

I simply see no reason to run my tires at maximum inflation pressures. It's working very well, over 20,000 miles and about 5 years and those tires are still in excellent condition. They look like they could go another 20,000 miles and 5 years more.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Give GY Tech a call and ask them what to do when going from a "E" to "G" tire. They will tell you to use the chart and add 5psi.

Why do you think they make the chart? MOST RV's axle rating is determined buy the tires capacity at MAX psi.

E rated tires are rated 80 PSI max. Adding 5#'s will give you 85PSI.
I don't think 85 PSI gives me the maximum cargo capacity,ability, performance of a 110 PSI tire.
I prefer to skip the charts and go straight to the max. I do think it's a good idea to monitor the wear for the B-ball effect as mentioned in JIMNLIN's post above.

Give GY Tech a call and ask them what to do when going from a "E" to "G" tire. They will tell you to use the chart and add 5psi.

Why do you think they make the chart? MOST RV's axle rating is determined buy the tires capacity at MAX psi.