winterizing issue

DE88ROX wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:

DE88ROX wrote:
I went out and looked. The bottom valve directional arrow is pointing towards the water heater and the top is pointing away. From the diagrams i have seen that is correct.

The top valve is the problem then, since the water pressure is coming from the bypass line TOWARDS the heater, and the valve is letting it by. The valve will seal in one direction only when turned off.

You might be on to something. Think im going to have to take it in.

The way that top valve is installed, it would work fine as a hot water shut off, since the pressure would be coming from the tank. For the bypass to work though, it needs to be installed the other way around. Or better yet, have them use Sharkbite, Watts, SeaTech, or some other brand valve that's not directional.

Typically a single flow valve turns off in clockwise handle turn. But with the Chinese making almost everything today then all bets are off.

As for the antifreeze! I would not chance not using it.

If there is any antifreeze taste after you flush and sanitize the system in the spring then it is obvious the flush and sanitize was not complete.

If there was any antifreeze left there could also be some bacteria laden water left in the system.

Dutch_12078 wrote:

DE88ROX wrote:
I went out and looked. The bottom valve directional arrow is pointing towards the water heater and the top is pointing away. From the diagrams i have seen that is correct.

The top valve is the problem then, since the water pressure is coming from the bypass line TOWARDS the heater, and the valve is letting it by. The valve will seal in one direction only when turned off.

You might be on to something. Think im going to have to take it in. Im really tired of dealing with it and getting frustrated with this whole travel trailer thing.. Thought it was suppose to make camping a little easier. It hasnt. It seems there is always an issue with this thing. I have a stack of service orders an inch thick and its only 3 years old. Had a PUP for 17 years and it only went in for service twice, Once due to a recall on the fridge and the other for a new awning.

Seriously thinking about just selling it and be done with this whole camping game. Save a lot of money that way.

Lesson lerned here? NEVER BUY A STARCRAFT.

old guy wrote:
I always cringe when some says just blow out the lines and forget the anti freeze. that might work in lawn sprinklers systems but when I did that on my first TT, I had leaks I had to fix before I could go camping the first time after that. Now I blow out the lines and use anti freeze. I only had to get burned once to learn my lesson. never lost a fitting again.

X2
The pex plumbing is a little more forgiving and will stretch a little but if you ever had to replace a copper system you would never rely on blowing it out again.

wa8yxm wrote:


1: I have never heard of a quarter turn valve that is directional, but.. Possible it is

Flair-It uses a soft pliable material as the valve seal that only covers the outlet port of the valve, using the water pressure behind it to make the seal. When the valve is installed backwards to the flow, the water pressure just pushes the seal out of the way. Two minutes with a pair of Channel Lock pliers to unscrew the bonnet and disassemble the valve would show you how it works. Or you could just believe the arrow they nicely provided.

DE88ROX wrote:
I went out and looked. The bottom valve directional arrow is pointing towards the water heater and the top is pointing away. From the diagrams i have seen that is correct.

The top valve is the problem then, since the water pressure is coming from the bypass line TOWARDS the heater, and the valve is letting it by. The valve will seal in one direction only when turned off.

I always cringe when some says just blow out the lines and forget the anti freeze. that might work in lawn sprinklers systems but when I did that on my first TT, I had leaks I had to fix before I could go camping the first time after that. Now I blow out the lines and use anti freeze. I only had to get burned once to learn my lesson. never lost a fitting again.

had the same sort of problem on my old Class A, even though the water heater bypass valve was in the correct position to winterize---what worked on that rig was to leave the water heater "full" of water then flip the bypass & put antifreeze through the system-worked like a charm...afterwards open the drain plug on the water heater & drain the water out...best guess I had was that the pump would sense no back pressure from the water heater & would try to fill it (with antifreeze)--do my fiver the same way (in fact will be winterizing this weekend)

Harvard wrote:
Your hot water lines/taps will flow antifreeze via the bypass line/valve. It is not coming from the tank, is it?

No, its not. Turned valves at the pump. Turned valves on water heater as shown in the pic. Stuck hose in antifreeze jug and it pumped it out just like it should. Only problem is, most of the antifreeze went into the water heater anyway.

The white PEX valves are directional 1/4 turn and flowing the right way.

The only thing it cam be is that both valves are bad.

Im hoping that I can find what I need to replace them locally without having to order parts on line.

darsben wrote:
Turn the cold one the other way or will it turn further? The handle may have been installed wrong by the dealer. IT IS A VERY LONG SHOT as I presume the water worked fine all summer

Yes, worked all summer just fine, and the directional arrows on both valves are pointing in the right direction.