Atwood water heater VS Suburban

WoodGlue wrote:
Unless and until you are able to contact Atwood and confirm with them that your specific 2104 NEWER MODELS is one of the new generations of "idiot proof" WH's.
WoodGlue

I believe the 2104 models use Dilithium crystals to heat the water.

WoodGlue wrote:
World of warning to everyone who has an 2013 or before Atwood or Suburban WH, please use the old fashioned way of making sure your water tank is full before you start to heat it. Unless and until you are able to contact Atwood and confirm with them that your specific 2104 NEWER MODELS is one of the new generations of "idiot proof" WH's.

The water heater information should be on the included warranty paperwork and then go outside and inspect your unit and write down the specific numbers before calling Atwood.

Thanks newman, I appreciate the backup.

WoodGlue

Talked to Atwood this morning.
1. The "new" 120 element has been installed as OEM since 2006/07
2. There is NO sensor or anything that can determine DRY FIRE on 120
3. The 120 element is designed to dry fire no more than 10 to 15 minutes. IT IS DESIGNED TO NOT BURN UP FOR THAT FIRST FEW SECONDS/MINUTES THAT THE RV'ER HAS MISTAKENLY DRY FIRED AND CATCHES HIS MISTAKE. If he does NOT catch his mistake, AFTER that time it will burn out. THAT explains why I have replaced numerous burnt out Atwood 120 elements even tho some of you think the new design will stop that. It will NOT according to Atwood tech services
4. The ONLY sensor on the Atwood is the standard ECO that IF the 120 element lasted longer than 15 minutes would heat the casing to the limit of the ECO and once the ECO opened the power to the W/H would be shut off, BUT, once the tank cooled down and the ECO closed again, then the 120 would reheat again and the odds are the element would then burn up in that 10 minutes.
5. As I stated, you cannot run a Atwood 120 with an empty tank. Atwood will NOT warranty a dry fired destroyed burnt up 120 element in the warranty period.
6. Atwood stated to NEVER run water into the tank if you have dry fired. Turn off the 120 and wait a few hours and then fill the tank. If you run cold water into the tank with the 120 element red hot, then the inner burner tube will collapse from the steam and heat.
7. I checked our stock of Atwood 120 elements. EVERY one has a pink tag on it that states to NEVER dry fire and that it will burn out in minutes if dry fired. WHY would they state this if Atwood believes that their 120 elements cannot be damaged by dry fire???? Believe what you want, but I work on scores of Atwood water heaters every year and the 120 elements DO burn out by dry firing.
8. The diffrence between a Suburban 120 element and a Atwood is, the Suburban element is silver and the Atwood has kind of a Army dark Green coating which according to Atwood is the dry fire inhibitor.
9. There is NO difference bewteen 2014 and older models on this issue going back to 2006/7. Doug

World of warning to everyone who has an 2013 or before Atwood or Suburban WH, please use the old fashioned way of making sure your water tank is full before you start to heat it. Unless and until you are able to contact Atwood and confirm with them that your specific 2104 NEWER MODELS is one of the new generations of "idiot proof" WH's.

The water heater information should be on the included warranty paperwork and then go outside and inspect your unit and write down the specific numbers before calling Atwood.

Thanks newman, I appreciate the backup.

WoodGlue

I'm glad to hear the different LPG consumption between the two brands. I've found we can't use the (Suburban) water heater on electric along with our 15000 Coleman Mach A/C in hot weather, so I put the LPG on in the middle of dinner and the water's hot by dishwashing time.
The DSI feature is wonderful. Click it on "on demand" then back off and the LPG use is completely acceptable. I used to think DSI was a frill and standing pilot was plenty, but NO, DSI is the best.

dougrainer
The new attwood hth have a new incelemant that will withstand accidental dry starts but it also has a fused curcuit board and a thermal fuse thatbwill act as the safety to save the elemant.so with that being said per attwoods website you and woodglue are both right

My 2014 Lance trailer has the newest Atwood WH in it. It has something to do with some kind of NEW sensor system.

Please call Atwood (talk to someone other than the receptionist on the phone) and stop calling me out in a newsgroup!

I think that most people are smart enough to stick with the old fashioned way of making sure their WH has water in it before turning the heat on, old skool style - so don't get your panties in a bunch!

WoodGlue

WoodGlue wrote:
Dougrainer, please call Atwood and have them explain it to you for your full edification.

800-546-8759 USA
800-825-4328 Canada & USA

You'll find that they will tell you that their latest model water heaters have protection against burning up when run without being filled with water!!!

WoodGlue

You are stating Atwood told you that their "NEW" model W/H will NOT burn up the 120 element if you have no water or the Element is exposed and not immersed in water? NO WAY. I have worked on Atwoods for 34 years and I can see NO device or control that would "know" if water is in the tank. Now, if you dry fire on LP the ECO will kick it out. The same is true for residential 120/240 volt Water heaters. Curious, what prompted you to call Atwood to ask that question??? Their on-line features sheet state such a capability for their MARINE line of Water Heaters, but they do not state HOW LONG they can last with not being immersed in water. But, I will call Monday when they are open. But the fact remains you need to clarify HOW NEW and what models. I have replaced 120 elements on 2013 RV's that were burnt up. Doug

Dougrainer, please call Atwood and have them explain it to you for your full edification.

800-546-8759 USA
800-825-4328 Canada & USA

You'll find that they will tell you that their latest model water heaters have protection against burning up when run without being filled with water!!!

WoodGlue

AnEv942 wrote:
? I thought OP was relateing faster recovery times between the 2 brands and lower use of propane... but then the 120v element was metioned.
are we comparing electric use verses gas?

He was, but then another poster injected a false claim that a Atwood had a 120 element protection device, which they don't. The original poster was extolling the better and more efficient operation on LP which is true. Atwoods use 8800 BTU's per hour while Suburbans use about 12,000 BTU's per hour. There is NO difference on 120 element heating times if you have a 120/LP combo Heater. Doug

? I thought OP was relateing faster recovery times between the 2 brands and lower use of propane... but then the 120v element was metioned.
are we comparing electric use verses gas?