Having trouble repairing shwintec slide

Would the problem be the slide motors are out of sync?

chevman

If you are positive the wire harness is GOOD, then the problem is the slide motor. The code tells you which slide motor. Doug

Bad motor?

When my slide stopped working it had the same symptoms as yours - move a bit then stop. Both motors worked. I eventually found how to do a manual override on the controller so I could get the slide out and in.

I eventually discovered that two of the wires had come unsoldered from the PCB on the top of the motor. Why two at the same time? I dunno. Anyway, like yours, the cable was good, but that wasn't where the problem was.

I replaced the motor and it works fine again. I also repaired the old motor so now I have a spare.

Mine is a first year schwintek model so there are NO SLOTS TO REMOVE A FAULTY MOTOR!! They said I had to remove the entire slide to replace the motor. Not going to do that. It was a long and sad saga of the effort to cut a slot because access was almost impossible but I made it - sometimes 'old and stubborn' pays off.

larry barnhart wrote:
Would the problem be the slide motors are out of sync?

chevman

No, they were synced. The day before this problem I had run the slide in and out. It would only go halfway due to a piece of heavy plastic that was laid in the slide out opening before installation. It was all twisted up and interfering with the slide rails and roller. I cut the offending piece out and now there is a short according to the blinking light. I did a resistance test and all the wires in the harness are ok and the pigtail from the motor I checked continuity by popping off the plastic end cap, The guy at Lippert said the wires to the motor were broke but this isn't the case.

joebedford wrote:
When my slide stopped working it had the same symptoms as yours - move a bit then stop. Both motors worked. I eventually found how to do a manual override on the controller so I could get the slide out and in.

I eventually discovered that two of the wires had come unsoldered from the PCB on the top of the motor. Why two at the same time? I dunno. Anyway, like yours, the cable was good, but that wasn't where the problem was.

I replaced the motor and it works fine again. I also repaired the old motor so now I have a spare.

Mine is a first year schwintek model so there are NO SLOTS TO REMOVE A FAULTY MOTOR!! They said I had to remove the entire slide to replace the motor. Not going to do that. It was a long and sad saga of the effort to cut a slot because access was almost impossible but I made it - sometimes 'old and stubborn' pays off.

I popped of the plastic end cap on the motor and the frail wire were all soldered on and the resistance was all the same. I also did the system reset. It only goes and inch and then stops each time. This is really puzzling.

I have a 35 foot test harness. I connect the harness to the control board and then to the suspected motor. IF the system operates, it is the harness. IF the system malfunctions still, it is the motor. Some Schwintek harness are actually 2 harness's. A short 7 foot harness from the motor down the slide fascia and then it connects to the harness from the control board. Both have the potential to be pinched and shorted. Doug

tvfrfireman wrote:
I also did the system reset. It only goes and inch and then stops each time.

Did you try manual override? Press the mode button 6 times then hold for 5 seconds 7th time to enter manual override. Use regular switch to move in/out. NOTE: over current and short protection are disabled, so be careful.

BTW, while I was refreshing my memory how to enter manual override, I noticed that 8 flashes is NOT wire short, it's missing hall effect signal (i.e. motors not sync'd so the controller stops them). Gotta be wiring or the controller.

joebedford wrote:

tvfrfireman wrote:
I also did the system reset. It only goes and inch and then stops each time.

Did you try manual override? Press the mode button 6 times then hold for 5 seconds 7th time to enter manual override. Use regular switch to move in/out. NOTE: over current and short protection are disabled, so be careful.

I have since talked to Lippert. This tech was very sharp and told me to reverse the wires to the motors and see what code blinks. He told me if it blinks 2 green and 8 red it is the motor. I put it all back together and sure enough, it is the motor. I now have to figure out the gear ratio of the motor. It is either 300:1 or 500:1. The told me the information would be on the column. It is no where to be found. Nothing is easy with RV's.

Thank you everyone for your help. If the new motor doesn't work, l will reply back after I get it together. David