Is killing batteries three times too much?

BFL13 wrote:
Mex, what do you do with a strong sister in the bunch?

My T-1275s' cells are all over the map, can't get them equalized with my equipment. Been like that for a year now and the batts work great despite the funny SGs.

Banking them with the four 6s over a long period on solar doesn't work though. The 6s get charged before the T-1275s do and then the 6s just sit there losing water. Another lesson learned. Anyway, two T-1275s from pos to neg posts best readings:

Batt 1- 12.75, 75, 95, 75, 75, 75

Batt 2- 12.80, 75, 70, 90, 85, 90

Doing attempted equalizings now and then, the same cells are always the ones stronger or weaker so it is consistent in that way.

I just keep using mine the way they are, and don't worry too much about it. I do like to do a 40% state of charge left in them, run kind of hard, leave the TV on and the lights so I lose at about 7 -9 amps an hour for a few hours before I top off charge them then equalize them. But like your T-1275's mine are all over the map, a 10 to 20 point spread on the weak sister and the Top Gun. They work fine, for camping, maybe not so much good for a golf cart.

Mex, what do you do with a strong sister in the bunch?

My T-1275s' cells are all over the map, can't get them equalized with my equipment. Been like that for a year now and the batts work great despite the funny SGs.

Banking them with the four 6s over a long period on solar doesn't work though. The 6s get charged before the T-1275s do and then the 6s just sit there losing water. Another lesson learned. Anyway, two T-1275s from pos to neg posts best readings:

Batt 1- 12.75, 75, 95, 75, 75, 75

Batt 2- 12.80, 75, 70, 90, 85, 90

Doing attempted equalizings now and then, the same cells are always the ones stronger or weaker so it is consistent in that way.

Measure ALL THE CELLS FIRST with the hydrometer. Find the lowest reading cell. I nicknamed this the WEAK SISTER CELL. You will continue to pick it for hydrometer tests. Forget the other cells unless you are doing an annual or bi-annual full hydrometer test of the battery. The WEAK SISTER will continue to be the first to fall and the last to rise gravity wise. This saves a lot of time.

Don't let the voltage rise too far above 16.0 Use a DING kitchen timer or power cord timer to ensure safety.

One or the other is going to happen...

1. The weak sister is going to revert to original density electrolyte

2. " "not going to" "

Before the voltage maximum of 16.0 is reached. If it doesn't reach original density like the other cells. Wait a day and repeat. There is a 4 hour lag where equalization is halted and the gravity will still keep climbing a little. Be patient. Compensate for temperature.

Now comes the fun part. You equalize and one or more cells did not reach original gravity. How many points are they below original density and how many cells are weak?

You equalize twice a 6 cell battery and find the following

1.260 - 1.280 - 1.275 - 1.270 - 1.250 - 1.270

Only one cell regained original density. The 1.250 cell is a problem. That and in conjunction with the 1.260 cell it spells significant trouble on the way. This battery needs to be replaced or it needs to be understood it falls well within the ranks of walking wounded. This battery WILL HARM any "good" battery permanently connected to it.

But rely on the WEAK SISTER cell when equalizing. Do not just automatically set and forget 5% of ampere hour constant amperage and 16.0 volts, until the battery reaches 16.0 volts. Unneeded overcharging eats positive plates. Shortens battery life enough to pay attention to and react to WEAK SISTER gravity readings.

A normal equalization requires one dip to qualify equalization, another dip (of the weak sister cell) when voltage reaches 15.5. If the cell has not reverted. Dip that cell hourly and cease equalization when the cell reaches 1.275 it will rise further on it's own. 16.0 of course is the voltage limit.

Not a single word, not a single letter or comma of the above applies if trying to equalize with a "smart charger". It only applies to the non-fraudulent BCI equalization protocol.

Hope This Helps

NinerBikes wrote:

Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
Now, then... the OP needs a super duper 16.0V or barely higher charger that can grunt out and hold a C/20 battery capacity AMPERAGE charge rate, to top charge and equalize charge his battery. Any more suggestions?

I have a charger that will do that, but I didn't realize that I could do it manually. If I put the charger on the high setting, how do I know when equalization has been accomplished?

You put a Digital multi meter on it and also a Specific Gravity meter on each cell. One of two things will happen first. The voltage will hit 16.0V then start dropping back to 15.7V. When it's dropping, it's not good for your batteries. OR... You go in there, while things are bubbling, and you measure the specific gravity on the lowest SG cell, THE WEAK SISTER, or the slacker and you get the SG up on it as close as possible to all it's siblings. Generally anything at or above 1.275 SG is considered Equalized... the goal is for all of them to be the same reading, or as close as possible.

This process requires Baby sitting, to get the approximate time down to accomplish it, the first few times are learning experiences, after that, it's pretty consistent, the amount of time it takes. Can take 30 minutes to 3 hours, just depends on how badly your plates are sulphated, the 2nd time may take less effort.

Good info. Thanks. I will try this. I'm pretty swamped for the next two weeks so I might not get to it soon.

Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
Now, then... the OP needs a super duper 16.0V or barely higher charger that can grunt out and hold a C/20 battery capacity AMPERAGE charge rate, to top charge and equalize charge his battery. Any more suggestions?

I have a charger that will do that, but I didn't realize that I could do it manually. If I put the charger on the high setting, how do I know when equalization has been accomplished?

You put a Digital multi meter on it and also a Specific Gravity meter on each cell. One of two things will happen first. The voltage will hit 16.0V then start dropping back to 15.7V. When it's dropping, it's not good for your batteries. OR... You go in there, while things are bubbling, and you measure the specific gravity on the lowest SG cell, THE WEAK SISTER, or the slacker and you get the SG up on it as close as possible to all it's siblings. Generally anything at or above 1.275 SG is considered Equalized... the goal is for all of them to be the same reading, or as close as possible.

This process requires Baby sitting, to get the approximate time down to accomplish it, the first few times are learning experiences, after that, it's pretty consistent, the amount of time it takes. Can take 30 minutes to 3 hours, just depends on how badly your plates are sulphated, the 2nd time may take less effort.

mchero wrote:

Also, one last question for the OP...
Do your batteries get charged while driving down the road?

The truck does have an active charger line, but my experience has been that it does not provide much recovery. Additionally, I tend to go to a place, park the truck, then leave it there for several days.

NinerBikes wrote:
Now, then... the OP needs a super duper 16.0V or barely higher charger that can grunt out and hold a C/20 battery capacity AMPERAGE charge rate, to top charge and equalize charge his battery. Any more suggestions?

I have a charger that will do that, but I didn't realize that I could do it manually. If I put the charger on the high setting, how do I know when equalization has been accomplished?

NinerBikes wrote:

JiminDenver wrote:
Those Honda generators are sure finicky. I pulled the snow blower out yesterday to get it ready for winter and saw a half a tank of gas from last year. Fearing the worse I pulled the rope and it fired right up.

A 9 or 10 HP Honda motor and the size of it's brass jets does not get affected as severely as a 49cc or 99cc Honda generator with it's tiny carbs and jets. Just a fact of life and the nature of the beasts. Lets not compare apples and watermelons, OK? ;-) It's about scaleability not applying in this case.

Now, then... the OP needs a super duper 16.0V or barely higher charger that can grunt out and hold a C/20 battery capacity AMPERAGE charge rate, to top charge and equalize charge his battery. Any more suggestions?

I use an early 1980's Sears Automotive 12V 6 amp/2 amp Manual Charger to perform this function on my battery. It does make 16.0V in 6 amp mode. It makes 13.6V in 2 amp mode.

Thats why I choose to run non-ethenol in all my engines, snowblower, log splitter, saws, genny etc.

I purchased an 03 Pace Arrow Diesel Pusher back in 2005. Had 4 6-volt golf cart batteries. I went out & replaced all 4 with Sam's Club batteries. I ALSO replaced the converter with a Progressive Dynamics 60wat with the charge wizard. As of today still going strong! First 4/5 years I did NOT have the coach plugged in during winter months. I would FULLY CHARGE & then hit the disconnect switches.

Sam's Club wet cells are the best bang for the buck in my book.

Also, one last question for the OP...
Do your batteries get charged while driving down the road?

My new to us Discovery had an issue with the isolator relay. The batteries would get "juiced up" before leaving for a camping trip. When I'd get to my destination I noticed the house batteries where low! Did some testing & found that although the isolator relay was energizing when it should BUT the contacts where toast! I was able to purchase a new 200watt continuous duty for about $65.00

My isolator relay will also energize while the Xantrex converter is charging! Nice not to have to worry about the chassis batteries while connected to shore power.

JiminDenver wrote:
Those Honda generators are sure finicky. I pulled the snow blower out yesterday to get it ready for winter and saw a half a tank of gas from last year. Fearing the worse I pulled the rope and it fired right up.

A 9 or 10 HP Honda motor and the size of it's brass jets does not get affected as severely as a 49cc or 99cc Honda generator with it's tiny carbs and jets. Just a fact of life and the nature of the beasts. Lets not compare apples and watermelons, OK? ;-) It's about scaleability not applying in this case.

Now, then... the OP needs a super duper 16.0V or barely higher charger that can grunt out and hold a C/20 battery capacity AMPERAGE charge rate, to top charge and equalize charge his battery. Any more suggestions?

I use an early 1980's Sears Automotive 12V 6 amp/2 amp Manual Charger to perform this function on my battery. It does make 16.0V in 6 amp mode. It makes 13.6V in 2 amp mode.