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buzzard616's avatar
buzzard616
Explorer
May 15, 2013

Killed my solar panels.......

Just finished what seemed to be a week-long rewire of my TT; installing solar panels and tidying up a few issues that have bugged me since we bought it.
I used black and white wire to run from the panels to the controller and on to the batteries. In the connections at the panels and behind the controller I used red felt pen or red tape to mark the white wire as positive. When I got into the battery compartment I forgot and lapsed into household 'black is hot / white is neutral' mode. ZAP!! :E
A tear down of the controller found no evidence of anything burnt and the fuses (2) were OK. Voltage from the panels, however is microscopic.
I'm going to have to go back up on that hot, white roof and pull the panels.

Can anybody tell me if there are fuses in the junction boxes on the back of the panels or am I $230 (plus shipping) smarter now? :S

29 Replies

  • On the back of the panel. there should be a panel or box that houses the diodes,
    Access the diodes, check them with a ohm meter,(a diode will let power travel in one direction not the other).
    Using the meter leads, place a lead on each end of the diode, and observe what happens, reverse the leads, observe what happens,

    You should have continuity on one connection and not the other, if you have no continuity in either test the diode is blown.



    Putz
  • How are you measuring that voltage from the panels? Something doesn't add up, if the diodes on the panel were burnt open, there would be zero output.

    I thought that RV wiring convention as to color was always: black--hot, white---ground? Good on 'ya for marking the wires, anyway. I would bet that the spark you encountered was the result of the reversed polarity at the battery. that may have affected the controller but doubtful any power greater than the panel's nominal voltage was exceeded or overcame a diode.


  • Controller is a basic cheapo but as stated earlier there appears to be no evidence of anything burning out (visual or smell) and the fuses are intact. The controller still appears to work using a battery charger as input. Voltage at the panels with the controller removed is > 1 volt.


    Stu
  • something is 'out of kilter'

    panels produce more voltage than the battery
    the controller was connected

    power should not have been in reverse flow thru the controller to pass thru the panels

    batteries produce more amps, but it takes voltage to push the amps

    i would look for blown out diodes and hope that is all it is

    what is the make & model of the controller
  • Voltage measured hot off the panels with the controller removed is less than 1 volt.

    Stu
  • Panels often have a diode in series to prevent panels draining battery at night. If it really is the panels, not the controller, I'd look for the diodes first. Manufacturer might be able to say where diodes are.

    Good luck!
  • Based on the panels, they may have blocking diodes. But they are inside near the connections. Call the manufacture or find the specs. However, I would start looking elsewhere first. Disconnect the panels completely and see if they are producing power.
  • I'm no solar expert but it seems to me that if the panels hook to the controller and the output of the controller goes to the batteries, then the reversal would only affect the controller and not work its way back to the panels.

    Is there a way to measure the panels with the controlled disconnected?

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