Need to replace my water pump

Yeah I tried to google to find a picture and could not. I'll take a picture of the ones under the bed tonight. They are easy peasy to get at.

Steve

Still l--O^O--king for a pic of one of those valves. Memory hints that the pull ring holds the valve together, and after it's removed the plunger comes out the bottom/drain side. Then I guess the O-Rings are on the inside of the valve body. And a spring in there someplace too...

Yes. I think the valve comes apart from the -bottom-- side - out the drain. I see no way to unscrew the packing out the pull ring side, which is a shame. I hoped you could unscrew the packing nut and out all would come.

I have this nagging thought that AFTER I cut the leaking valve out, it came to me how I could have fixed it. The leak is nothing but an O-Ring. Just can't remember how it came apart

Is the low point drains the only thing those pipes that disappear into the floor go to? If so, you could leave the existing valves open and install new inline valves in the accessible tubing above the valves. That would prevent the leaking/weeping when the existing valves are shut, at least.

Nope, they are inline on the cold and hot water lines that run through/under the flooring from the bathroom on one side of the RV to the shower on the other side of the RV.

There is a small hole in the carpet/floor to reveal where these valves are but that's it. The inlet and outlet sides disappear under the carpet/floor.

Steve

GH! Our first coach had low point drains that pulled up with a little steel ring as the handle. Crimped to the tubing, under a cabinet, hard to get at. Water leaked up past the stem when the pressure was on with the valve closed. Soaked the carpet. Been so long, I forget how I fixed it. I remember I first tried a rubber furniture tip over the stem, pull ring removed, held with hose clamp. It held shore tie water pressure with regulator, but NOT pump pressure. Been too long to remember what I did next.
This was before I heard about SharkBite fittings. If the PEX tubing is cut off clean and square, all you have to do is push the SB fitting in place. The actual SB stuff seems to be brass, but there are now other fittings using the SB design. I added a supply shutoff for the RV toilet and it was super easy, plastic fitting from Lowe's.

Yup, our low-point drains pull up with a little steel ring as the handle. They screw in place though, not crimp.

The problem is there is not enough service loop in the plumbing to remove them. The two under the sink run under/through the flooring with only a small hole cut in the flooring to reveal the drain valves. I see no way to get at them short of ripping out the bathroom sink.

Steve

Is the low point drains the only thing those pipes that disappear into the floor go to? If so, you could leave the existing valves open and install new inline valves in the accessible tubing above the valves. That would prevent the leaking/weeping when the existing valves are shut, at least.

UGH! Our first coach had low point drains that pulled up with a little steel ring as the handle. Crimped to the tubing, under a cabinet, hard to get at. Water leaked up past the stem when the pressure was on with the valve closed. Soaked the carpet. Been so long, I forget how I fixed it. I remember I first tried a rubber furniture tip over the stem, pull ring removed, held with hose clamp. It held shore tie water pressure with regulator, but NOT pump pressure. Been too long to remember what I did next.
This was before I heard about SharkBite fittings. If the PEX tubing is cut off clean and square, all you have to do is push the SB fitting in place. The actual SB stuff seems to be brass, but there are now other fittings using the SB design. I added a supply shutoff for the RV toilet and it was super easy, plastic fitting from Lowe's.

I already ordered the new pump.

I think Chris is saying that if the low point drains stick down on the outside, you could add secondary caps. That won't work if the valves are leaking onto the floor, but will if they leak out the drain and onto the ground.

Yes, the valves themselves leak. They seem to do OK if you make sure they are fully closed, but still dribble a small amount.

Steve

When my pump leaked I replaced it with the 4088 pump. While waiting for it to come in I took it apart and cleaned the diaphragm and put silicone adhesive at the parting line that stopped the leak. I tried just cleaning it and retorqueing the bolts but that did not not stop the leak. I would try the silicone adhesive first before ordering a new pump.