New RV. I've been using it for a couple of months and all has been well even when ambient temps were into the 100's. It is installed in a slide.I woke up this AM and opened the fridge door to get something and noticed it wasn't as cold as it should be. I checked the freezer and things were thawing. I was running it on electric and it has been freezing outside at night and 50's F in the day. I put a digital temp gauge in the freezer and after an hour it read 38F. Ice cubes were mushy and there was 1/4 to 1/2" ice on the back wall.I defrosted it and dried it out. I switched it to gas. In 8 hours it is only down to 37.3 and holding.I read that absorption (sp) refers were less efficient at freezing ambient temperatures so I blocked off the lower vents and mounted a 60 watt bulb in the back compartment. After a couple of hours running this was it is still at 37.3 in the freezer.I am running it on 9 which is the coldest setting. Any ideas?

Lower the thermistor down some or move over to the right one fin.Good luckRon

Moving thermistor location on a fridge that has adjustable temp setting will NOT correct a cooling issue. It can affect food section temps by 4-6*F on a fridge that has NO adjustable temp settings.Insufficient cooling on AC & LP on your 1210 Norcold is typically due to improper/lack of air flow (Draft)Also can be due to one of the electric heaters has failed on ACAnd low propane pressure on LPBut common to both is air flow. Check via upper vent cover for any obstructionBlocked cooling unit!!!Been running fridge with rig off-level :S

Old-Biscuit,Agreed, thermistor position is irrelevant on adjustable temperature model.There is no blockage in top or bottom vents.I could hear fans running in the summer when it was hot but no fans running now. I assumed this because the ambient temps are hovering around freezing. Running on propane flame looked and sounded normal. I will plug on the kill-a-watt and see what the heater is drawing.As to air flow, I thought that was important only when ambient temps are warmer? Some here block off their lower vents in the winter.

It is drawing 415 watts on electric. I am now tossing what was in the freezer, wasn't much and am going to get ice bags for the refer.RV is always level. Has automatic 6 point leveling system. Ran fine for 2 weeks at current location.

Fans are thermostatic controlled. Thermostat is on condenser --turns on fans when fin temp is 135*F and turns them back off when fin temp is 115*F fin.NO fans should not be running in low ambient air temps (usually not needed below 85*F air temps)The 2 heaters are 225W/EA (450W) so a bit low at 415WAir flow is needed (Draft) to remove heat from cooling unit.Blocking off a couple of vents and using a 60W bulb helps when temps are below freezing....but not completely blocked off.A quick visual for gas pressure......turn on all stove top burners on high. Watch each as you turn on another one. Flames steady/remain at same height or do the diminish height?Now with them all running turn on furnace or water heater.Do they recover? If not........LP pressure needs adjusted.

Norcold 1210 doubledoor not cooling. | Good Sam Community

dougrainer
Nomad
Dec 06, 2015
CJW8 wrote:
according to THIS I reset the control board. Will see what happens. Results are so slow when working on these things.

This is the problem with these type forums(bad info). A RESET is ONLY for complete lock out of the refer, NO functions at all. So, your reset is useless. DO NOT block off the air flow. ANOTHER problem with these type forums. NEVER block off the air flow. You can install that light bulb. BUT, this procedure is for temps consistently BELOW 25 degrees. So, I would verify the rear cooling fans are running. Also, the temp of the freezer should be BELOW 10 degrees. If NOT, you have a major refer problem. The fact it is in a slide points to rear air flow(rear cooling fans inop). Doug
CJW8
Explorer
Dec 06, 2015
according to THIS I reset the control board. Will see what happens. Results are so slow when working on these things.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 06, 2015
You have 2 'moisture reduction heaters'
One is molded in the center divider section and the other is that flapper seal
Powered on anytime fridge is on. Flapper is turned on when left door is closed.
Not your lack of cooling issue

Ice crystals forming on freezer??
When you push the SET TEMP button does the number flash or remain steady?
Flashing...operating on 'BOS' backup operating system due to temp sensing failure. Duty cycle of heat source then has to be controlled via temp set point.

But it is sounding more and more like cooling unit blockage.
Check out this service manual.....LINK
Go to page 65 and then do cooling unit test following page 66 & 67
CJW8
Explorer
Dec 06, 2015
Old-Biscuit wrote:

Air flow is needed (Draft) to remove heat from cooling unit.
Blocking off a couple of vents and using a 60W bulb helps when temps are below freezing....but not completely blocked off.

I did this this afternoon. Blocked 2 of 3 slots in lower vent cover and I installed a 60 watt bulb.

Observation- I can see ice crystals starting on back wall of left freezer compartment.

The center sealing strip between the double refer doors seems warm to the touch. I don't know why there would be a heater strip in this area. OK, I see 3 contact points on the door that make when the door is closed. I put tape over them to disable them for now.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 06, 2015
Fans are thermostatic controlled. Thermostat is on condenser --turns on fans when fin temp is 135*F and turns them back off when fin temp is 115*F fin.

NO fans should not be running in low ambient air temps (usually not needed below 85*F air temps)

The 2 heaters are 225W/EA (450W) so a bit low at 415W

Air flow is needed (Draft) to remove heat from cooling unit.
Blocking off a couple of vents and using a 60W bulb helps when temps are below freezing....but not completely blocked off.

A quick visual for gas pressure......turn on all stove top burners on high. Watch each as you turn on another one. Flames steady/remain at same height or do the diminish height?
Now with them all running turn on furnace or water heater.
Do they recover? If not........LP pressure needs adjusted.
CJW8
Explorer
Dec 06, 2015
It is drawing 415 watts on electric. I am now tossing what was in the freezer, wasn't much and am going to get ice bags for the refer.

RV is always level. Has automatic 6 point leveling system. Ran fine for 2 weeks at current location.
CJW8
Explorer
Dec 06, 2015
Old-Biscuit,
Agreed, thermistor position is irrelevant on adjustable temperature model.
There is no blockage in top or bottom vents.
I could hear fans running in the summer when it was hot but no fans running now. I assumed this because the ambient temps are hovering around freezing. Running on propane flame looked and sounded normal. I will plug on the kill-a-watt and see what the heater is drawing.

As to air flow, I thought that was important only when ambient temps are warmer? Some here block off their lower vents in the winter.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 06, 2015
Moving thermistor location on a fridge that has adjustable temp setting will NOT correct a cooling issue. It can affect food section temps by 4-6*F on a fridge that has NO adjustable temp settings.

Insufficient cooling on AC & LP on your 1210 Norcold is typically due to improper/lack of air flow (Draft)
Also can be due to one of the electric heaters has failed on AC
And low propane pressure on LP
But common to both is air flow. Check via upper vent cover for any obstruction

Blocked cooling unit!!!
Been running fridge with rig off-level :S
lanerd
Explorer II
Dec 06, 2015
Lower the thermistor down some or move over to the right one fin.

Good luck

Ron

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