Norcold refrig lights all flash

ALL LEDs flashing in AC mode.......AC heater element faulted.

I was afraid of that. I have watched that done once not much room to work on it in place. But I know it can be done. Thanks for the info

Bummer took ohm reading on heater coil and it says it is close to what it is supposed to be. Should be 40.3 ohms and reads 39.8 ohms. Not sure if it makes a difference if it is hot or cold. Running on gas so the tube is hot. Might go to take a reading on new one prior to buying.

What board did you replace it with? The all flashing should have been fixed, but Norcold does not offer that board any more- Dinosaur does, but you have to reference the original part number to get the correct board.

All flashing on the original board meant the heater was drawing current when it should not have been- i.e., a stuck relay, but it would give that on LP as well as AC operation.

chucknmare wrote:
Bummer took ohm reading on heater coil and it says it is close to what it is supposed to be. Should be 40.3 ohms and reads 39.8 ohms. Not sure if it makes a difference if it is hot or cold. Running on gas so the tube is hot. Might go to take a reading on new one prior to buying.

To get correct resistance reading on heater element is should be at ambient temp......so fridge needs to be off and stack cold or pull heater out of tube and let it cool down before testing.

Thanks Old-Biscuit I will yank it and test.

You don't need to pull it to test it- the specs call for +-10%, and 39 ohms is well within that. Hot or cold makes no difference.
You really need to tell what board number you installed- non of the 9100 series has cooling unit sensing, which is the only reset there is on those, and each board needs to match the controls.

Thanks for the replys as soon as the rig comes back from a short trip I will work opn it again.

chucknmare wrote:
Bummer took ohm reading on heater coil and it says it is close to what it is supposed to be. Should be 40.3 ohms and reads 39.8 ohms. Not sure if it makes a difference if it is hot or cold. Running on gas so the tube is hot. Might go to take a reading on new one prior to buying.

Mine tested good also but was causing my GFI to trip. I replaced it based on advice from others on this forum and it fixed the problem. It was hard to remove because it was rusted in place. I had to use a long set of needle nose pliers and move it back and forth an 1/8 inch at a time while pulling up on it. It came out after awhile. After cleaning the rust out of the slot the new one slipped right in while wiggling it back and forth. If you plug the heating element directly into 120 volts and it does not get hot you know it is the heating element.

When you tried to reset, did you disconnect both AC and DC power? You need to shut off and disconnect from both.