Now power to engine/lights/horn battery is good

Well heck...then it's elsewhere...I have power thru both those solenoids, when I open the door the door light comes on but if I turn on the key...it shuts off
I'm determined to find it...will keep taking any advice .
Thanks

need to start at the battery the positive cable should go to the starter SOLENOID then a thick wire should go to a 12v fuse panel that controls the dash and ignition,headlights etc. is it under the dash? start checking for power there or where it comes from. still could be a bad or loose connection you cannot tell by looking at them.

so looked it up saw the one on ebay that is just a 6 amp circuit breaker should be to retract the step when the ignition is turned on i would think not likely your starting issue though. the reason you would not have power on that is because the ignition is off.

shastgary

I feel its the one marked Elec step/ ignition. Its the only one that does not have voltage across it ans does not light up with the tester.
Now to find one.
It a 6 amp push to reset 17406-12

Anybody got a clue... ive googled and found only one on ebay and trying to buy it but the seller is On vacation... lucky man he is

relay could be stuck in the connected mode but not able to pass enough current anymore because of bad contacts especially if it is a solenoid type

positive battery cable should go to starting solenoid then there should be a fairly thick wire from that point that goes to the front to power the dash

It depends on the relay. If it has a NC (normally closed) connection then you will get continuity across those contacts.
Typically a relay that has a NC circuit also has a NO (normally Open) circuit as well.

There's usually a diagram on automotive relays. It will show you how it works.

Shasta Gary x2

I had a radiator fan motor quit on me waiting in line to cross the border. Took 22 engine restarts to clear the US Customs booth. I know better than to try and stare down an electrical problem. I went on a three mile spurt to a Harbor Fright Store and purchased a $4.95 volt meter. Ten minutes later, diagnostics complete. A bad fan motor not a fuse not a bad ground connection or a relay or a sensor. Since fan motors are non existent down here I hired what turned out to be an idiot to install new brushes last February. Yeehah one hand and a bad disc. Anyway, it's fruitless to try and outguess a simple test light or meter.

My abilities on my work bench are hardly hindered thanks to a THIRD HAND plus another flex clamp I made plus an assortment of hemostats.

ok
got out the test light as suggesstedat the batteyrt mode solenoid and disconnect panel.... all of the relays lit up except the one labeled :Elec Step/Ignition... sooo i pulled it off and when i test continuity I get a buzz....
seems to me i wold get nothing

what ever you were doing here is where to start checking for voltage and where it stops

Opened that box up and when I would hit try and reset the
"Coach Breaker Panel" fuse... I could at times get the lights , horn , and even ignition to turn on