Forum Discussion
- doughereExplorerI think the solarblvd is a reasonable deal, the windy city kit is probably a slightly better deal (I'd prefer the #10 wire in Solarblvd over the #12 in windy city's, I'd prefer the 30A controller in windy city over the 20 in solarblvd). In either case you'll probably need more wire, and you'll probably have to make your own brackets.
I have 2-60 watt and 1-100 watt panel from solarblvd(same brand as in kit), e-bay controller, e-bay connectors, homemade brackets; after one season am very satisfied with all items.
Either of the kits gives you a pretty decent deal, but I'd suggest you consider buying the parts individually. You can probably get them cheaper, and you can get exactly what you want.
Doug - BFL13Explorer IIMine is an rv.net version so can't send while it is on the blink--comes and goes.
- tenbearExplorerAlmot, the link to the list of completed projects didn't work. Could you resend it?
Thanks. - AlmotExplorer IIIThose Z-brackets are for residential installs that employ rails. If you use them as is, you have to attach them to the panel frame bottom first, then to the RV roof, and then you can't lift, tilt or remove the panel without ripping the screws out of the roof.
I am using 1/4" thick aluminum angle for brackets. With 1/4" screw into the "rivnut" that is riveted into the side of the panel frame: Here. The roof is crowned from sides to center, so with bracket parallel to the back of the trailer the vertical side of the bracket is more-less plumb. Same approach as Mr Wiz, Bigfootford and many others here used. Check their photos in the List of completed projects here. In my case it had to be 1/4" thick because I needed 4" high brackets to clear the roof vents and 4x4 don't come in thickness less than 1/4". If you can use brackets as low as 2" or 3", then 1/8" or 3/16" is adequate.
My roof is EPDM over 3/8" plywood, and the bracket foot is attached with #10 tapping screws and sealant. With your C-class the roof is - I think - different, so the method of anchoring the bracket foot will be different. Like VHB tape and/or well nuts maybe. - BFL13Explorer II
tenbear wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
You can get 100w panels here for $125 plus tax if you pick them up yourself and that controller is $20, which makes JiminDenver's kit example look decent for price.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/30A-Solar-Regulator-Panel-Battery-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-Auto-Autoswitch-PKE-/400490453900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3f175b8c
BFL, your link takes me to a charge controller. I was expecting to see 100w panels. Wrong link???
No, I didn't think you would want to pay shipping from here to there. I just wanted to show what that kit's controller was worth bought separately. Anyway here it is:
http://www.islandlifewholesale.com/100w-Mono-Crystaline-Solar-Panel-PWM-100.htm
Edit--BTW, A lesson learned by me is that you are better off with two or three 12v panels than one big panel for max flex. You can put the 12s in series for 24 and MPPT or parallel with PWM. No choice but MPPT with the one big panel.
Then if you want to expand you can get another 12v panel or so and just get another $20 controller or two and put all the controllers in parallel on your bank. You can't add a 12v panel to a 24v panel so to expand your one big panel now you have to go way bigger than you might want to, and your controller costs sky-rocket.
The big limitation on 12v in series and MPPT is the Vocs adding up to more than the MPPT controller's Voc limit, so eg, the Tracer at 100v limit is way better than the EcoW at 42v limit (which isn't enough for even two 12v panels in series)
I have a 130w panel and a 230w panel so I am stuck, where before when I had two 100s instead of the 230, I had more choices. I could have still gone MPPT but with the Tracer instead of the EcoW to get the Voc limit. As it is I am good with the EcoW and the 230 and no plan to expand. If I did expand now it would be to add to the 130 with more 12v. - tenbearExplorerA few more thoughts. The roof of my class C is "busy" and the 150W panels fit quite nicely. Some time ago SolarBLVD had a good deal on 200+w panels and they would fit but not as nicely as the 150w panels do. I have space for about 6.
Also, wondering what you use if the Z-brackets are c-ap.
Anyway I can't do the installation until spring so there is no rush. - AlmotExplorer IIIMost panels are on the West, but there should be local suppliers. Heck, even in obscure Canada people find local suppliers.
Sort you needs and priorities out. I wouldn't be able to relax knowing that my batteries are being charged or floating at voltages ~0.5V off the optimal, for example, because this is how some particular controller is made. Or that they are not 99% full in the evening because 10-15% of power is lost in a thin wire @20 amps. With multiple small panels, unless you always camp in the open, you have to wire them parallel to avoid shading losses, which in turn requires a better cable than #10, at these amps. - tenbearExplorerThanks all for the input. Right now my take is to do some more looking and learn some more. Apparently this is not a great offer, but I know the shipping of solar panels from the west coast to the north east is expensive.
- AlmotExplorer III
JiminDenver wrote:
I could better the price by a bit with this kit from windy nation with free shipping.
click
Yes. Same solar wattage and better amps limit of the controller.
But... With any kit, there is always the same "but" - does it have the components that you want? If you prefer fewer panels, i.e. better 2 than 3, and better 1 than 2 - then this is a wrong kit. If you prefer being able to see what you controller is doing, and to tune everything up like setpoints, voltage drop and temp comp - then this is a wrong kit again.
OTH, if the goal is just to get some solar charging at the lowest cost possible - then this might be the ticket, but like SMK said you should count only the components that you will sure use. MC4 wire will be cut in half which makes it 20ft double lead, and in any but very small trailers you total run from the roof to controller will exceed 25ft. Brackets and screws included you will likely put in a scrap bucket. Controller - don't know, seems to be one of zillion no-name PWMs.
20A MPPT is adequate for 300W for most users. 20A PWM is not.
About the cost again. SMK is right that the cost of separate components will likely be higher than the kit. It might be worth it though. A good fully adjustable 20A MPPT with remote temp sensor and 300W array will cost ~700, plus $60-80 for wires (which you will likely have to buy separately anyway). - tenbearExplorer
BFL13 wrote:
You can get 100w panels here for $125 plus tax if you pick them up yourself and that controller is $20, which makes JiminDenver's kit example look decent for price.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/30A-Solar-Regulator-Panel-Battery-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-Auto-Autoswitch-PKE-/400490453900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3f175b8c
BFL, your link takes me to a charge controller. I was expecting to see 100w panels. Wrong link???
About Technical Issues
Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,193 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 26, 2025