Refrigerator not cooling fully

I don't know about everyone else's refrigerator, but my Dometic has to be LEVEL.
Makes a huge difference. I use a fan inside the roof vent, a small frig fan inside the refrigerator, and both do help. Also putting commonly used items like cokes, beer, etc in a small ice chest to minimize opening/closing. But the biggest item for mine to cool properly is whether or not the coach is LEVEL. Side to side and front/back -> LEVEL.

jetcare wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:
Is there a tab you can side up and down on the fins inside the fridge? If so slide it toward the bottom of the fin.

Moving the thermister up causes more cooling.

Thanks guys!

I never knew that there was an adjustment inside the frig. The thermistor was all the way down. I slid it up and put a bottle of water in the freezer last night. Frozen water this morning! Frig is much colder too.

Thanks again as I was ready to call a mobile RV tech to have it checked.

You unit appears to be 12 years old and I suspect it might be at the end of it's useful life probably due to cumulative blockage of the boiler tube over the years. I would first try and check to see if it's actually cooling and probably the best way is to take and fill up the freezer with pre frozen food and put a remote reading thermometer with a high low memory in the very back against the back wall and record the high and low each day over say a 3 or 4 day period. This should give you a reasonable indication if the actual cooling system is working properly.

All the other suggestions are good, but if it can't keep ice frozen then you might have issue bigger than what has already been mentioned.

Larry

Also check your Door Gaskets. Not just that they're clean along with the surface they touch. Make sure nothing's holding a door even the slightest bit ajar. Do the Dollar Bill Test. Close the door on the bill and be sure there's resistance against pulling it out. All the way around.

A few years ago I thought we'd have to replace our Norcold N811. Then I found the doors weren't sealing on the corners up from (freezer) and down from (fridge) the latches. So I tried springing the doors so those corners touched first. That worked for one closing per door. So we developed The Gestures. The upper freezer door corner gets a palm of the hand push every time we close it. The lower fridge door corner gets a knee push.

I did, also, add two little 80mm computer fans on the outside coils about the same time as we figured out the Door Gesture plan.

Noticing you have a Fiver, IF your fridge is in a SLIDE, you MUST have a FAN on the outside. When fridge is not in a slide, its upper vent is through the roof and heat convection is far better than our the side wall. Get the Installation Instructions for your Fridge Make/Model. Make sure it doesn't have dead air space above it, and the ventilation is properly set up.

I took the inside freezer door off and it works great. You may need to add a cover or it may get to cold. I do not need to run it on high setting now. This is on a small Dometic.

Thank you, you are correct, my mistake raise it up.

Boon Docker wrote:
Is there a tab you can side up and down on the fins inside the fridge? If so slide it toward the bottom of the fin.

Moving the thermister up causes more cooling.

YC 1 wrote:
Check the drain tube on the back. If it is cracked or has been moved improperly it will allow warm air to enter.

The drain tube comes from the fridge area. If warm air entered the fridge area the freezer would become even colder than normal. The fridge area is where the thermostat is located, this controls the cooling of the whole unit.

Check the drain tube on the back. If it is cracked or has been moved improperly it will allow warm air to enter.

Is there a tab you can side up and down on the fins inside the fridge? If so slide it toward the top.

Edit to correct a mistake. :S