Replacing Switches (Caution! Nerdy)

A bit more timkering, but you could also use this Intellitec 24 volt load controller- 6 switched loads, either switch per line, hi or low side, or multiplexed digital.

Tis entirely indeed a issue of wet bulb (ugh) dry bulb (yay) corrosion.

Condensation precipitates salt out of solution. So if dew does not accumulate it can DO no damage. This is why I allow the bus to heat up during the day. Cruising sailboat owners thought I was nuts mounting alternator voltage regulators a foot distant from water cooled exhaust jackets. But diesels have a habit of emitting a fine oil vapor and plus the heat, it keeps terminal boards shiny. That and mounting the regulator like I did on Quicksilver, on a square 12" piece of 1/4" aluminum plate using silver heat sink mounting paste. The plate sucks heat from the regulator like you cannot believe.

Hi Mex,

I thought that heat would increase the rate of any chemical reaction and increase both corrosion and oxidation. ISTR that the rule of thumb is a doubling of the reaction for each 10 degree C (18 f) that the ambient temperature goes up.

Or is this some sort of dew point issue?

Well I am definitely going to purchase those flip-flop switches that Gordon Three so kindly posted. Eight of them as a matter of fact. By virtue of them being tucked in the ceiling they will store at a higher temp than shade ambient and hopefully lessen corrosion and oxidation.

I have those two streetlamps soaking in acetone at the moment. 300 pesos/gallon = $15.31 US.

And tonight I retrofit yet another Megawatt with caliper dial 10-turn pot, and all the upgrades. Going web surfing for a 100 ma scale 4" Simpson ammeter. Going to put that Manganin shunt to work. Wish I had a 12" x 5" X 5" box to stuff it in.

Here's another one I heard:

Mañana does not mean tomorrow..
It just means Not Today

I like doing things once. I found years ago lazy engineers tend to make stuff that does not fail. A second design workup is too much needless work. It did not take me long in life to figure out a krap part with a lifetime warranty is only intelligent if the store is within walking distance of the failure, and the parts supply and store will be around forever. A three dollar socket returned using six dollars in gasoline or shipping is a stupid (excuse me, financially unwise) choice. Quicksilver, goes to Brenda and Jesús, which will end up being like an apartment. How they managed to hot galvanize dip a 38' bus I will never know, but if kept electrically isolated from earth ground. the coating plus 11 pounds of zincs will keep the steel from rusting. The salt air acts like a conductor for the zincs to protect.

When I rebuilt alternators 100% of them were superior in durability and lifespan to the original. Can't do that anymore - Transpo, and Renard stuff is made in China garbage now.

But this controller and the LED lights, I hope they all are operating in 2030 long after I am gone. Mexico is not the land of surplus electronics and exotic materials. Indeed the moniker for the country could read: Just - Get - By

Wow!!!
That was pretty slick. Your statement has enormous relevance to the subject, in terms of suitability of each particular item that will resist: Fungus , corrosion, push button life span, oxidized contacts, dissolving critical parts of switches and intolerable high humidity etc.

Sure, life in the tropics is tough. And you don't have to go very far. Just go to Hawaiian Islands south of Honolulu and you will experience it first hand. Outside the problem of deterioration of any man made material, locals had to contend with howling 150 mile-an-hour wind. Mosquitoes/flies that will almost lift you airborne off your comfy hammock.

But let's go back to the issue. All of the scenario you brought up should have been mentioned on your first question.
In it, you indicated that your criteria was to build something that will look like a finish product that is fit for a princess' living room: flashy flush mounted membrane switches, glow orange light, no visible oogly toggles and rockers etc.

Relevant response came forward and I thought they were fantastic. However, in the end you are telling everyone that you require specs that amount to building a battleship, replete with military specs and completely immune to harsh environment.

This goes as well for the 24 volt requirement (which you should have mentioned) in the first place.

I don't know if you've been in the service.

Twenty four volt vehicles , including buses (yes they they do have buses in the military base.) that shuttle military families inside the base to different areas like schoolhouse, gym, PX center etc., are ever present.

These 24 volt vehicles were adapted by the military to achieve compatibility among different vehicles like personnel carriers, amphibious vehicles, including humvees etc. These vehicles run on diesel.

Being high compression engines and effect of oil viscosity that they are, they require glow plugs before you crank the engine. 24 volts is very efficient for this purpose.

I had a diesel Mercedes sedan that had two batteries that supply 24 volts for glow plugs and then switches to 12 volt to match with equipment voltage for radio, ammeter and lights etc. In emergency situation you can even use a certain formulation of jet fuel that could run a diesel engine.

Not efficient but will get you out of a bind.

This is a forum that I consider a bastion of valuable information for Rver like me. It serves those newcomers as well-- albeit enormously.
The type of discussion (and people involved) that dwell on the “GOTCHA” premise, doesn't reflect the noble purpose of this site. This attitude flies in the face of: “I'm here to tell you something that nobody else knew.” camouflaged arrogance. Totally puerile and uncalled for.

I hope you are in better shape that would not require to push that “ Help, I've fallen and I can't get up.” SOS button.

Your inimical eloquence maybe of some help for some, but would be something that would be at the bottom of my priorities.

Membrane switches do poorly when tapped a hundred times a day. Push button lifespan suffers greatly in corrosive environments because they are not sealed. I had to use DeOxit blue on all my cutting edges because left on a table overnight an open window three feet away from the tools deposits a nasty sprinkle of corrosion on them. We have a perpetual sea breeze and water that never cools below 25c - a very trying combination. For my radiator fan on the car, I was replacing one relay every six months. Even in the dry, winter months. Pop the cap off the relay to find a pile of blue-green powder with a dash of iron oxide. That has been lessened with the use of genuine Tyco relays.

Even electric meter bases corrode to shards in a couple of years. Same for the housing. I am going to bring 24 cans of Rust-O-Leum bed liner my next trip north.

But household switches get eaten. I actually -pack- spec grade receptacles with silicone grease to extend their lifespan. I wish I could find "T Rated" house toggle switches. They have disappeared altogether. But Cole-Hersee to Pollack the rocker switches die, silver contact or no.

It's a tough life here in the tropics - but someone's gotta do it.

And you are correct if you guessed that spending seven dollars on a switch used twice drives me ballistic. Can't keep the windows closed as fungus would sprout and grow and no doubt become sentient.

I'm not big on membrane switches
I would use push button normally open, monetary contact
Same action more durable
Yeah times are nice, you have too install st the device pump light etc
A lot of residential lighting uses 2 way or 3 way switching
No timers no relays, just 'travelers' aka pairs of switched wires