RV Rooftop Solar Charger Question

5 watt charger? That's almost nothing.

Skip it. For the effort if you need solar get a minimum 100 watt panel.

AFAIK that solar was for the engine battery. If it is likely to go flat while you are parked on shore power, you can put the engine batt in parallel with the house batts. (Several ways to do that) A common MH problem.

A five watt panel is a "Sales gimmic"
If they have a controller. and not a just a diode get a larger panel and hook i up. You can get replacement panels in the 10-50 watt range at harbor Freight.

If you have electronics ability All Electronics (dot com) and wish (Dot com) and make your own panel Wish has a real nice panel but how good it is I do not know.

Cost of solar is dropping as more and more solar goes on line. There is a major solar farm a few miles east of me and another one .. Well the luddites are already screaming "What will it do to your property value" (It should increase it) and so on as the power company is talkign to land owners.

That panel was meant to keep a small charge on your chassis battery. If you can, replace it. The wire terminated up there somewhere. A small 5 or 10 watt panel will be under 50 bucks.

Do you have a solar system for the coach batts?

I have no other panels and am not planning on installing any. The wires to the battery are in the AC compartment. The original panel was attached to the top of the AC and the wire went into the AC and out along with the other wire cable for the AC itself.

Just not sure how/where to run the cable without drilling a hole in the roof or air conditioner. Unless I just get a totally different setup.

infogeek wrote:
I have no other panels and am not planning on installing any. The wires to the battery are in the AC compartment. The original panel was attached to the top of the AC and the wire went into the AC and out along with the other wire cable for the AC itself.

Just not sure how/where to run the cable without drilling a hole in the roof or air conditioner. Unless I just get a totally different setup.

Well, many just run the wire down the fridge vent. But from there you’ll have to get it to your chassis battery.

If you pull the inside grill off can you see the original wire pair?

Reisender wrote:
If you pull the inside grill off can you see the original wire pair?

Yes.

infogeek wrote:

Reisender wrote:
If you pull the inside grill off can you see the original wire pair?

Yes.

Okay. There are probably a couple ways to route that up to the top of the roof from that point. Not knowing your roof or the type of gasket I’m reluctant to advise how to get it back to the outside but a competent tech or maybe someone else on here can help with that. Once it’s outside then it gets easier. Either recycle the original panel or get something small and cheap and mount it on the top of the AC to avoid shadows. Newer panels will be bigger capacity If you go bigger than 15 watts you’ll need a regulator...so don’t. :).

In my opinion you will regret not having that trickle charger on your chassis battery. We added one to every vehicle we had in our squadron in my Air Force days. We never had dead batteries even though some sat for a long time without being used.

JMHO

The RV in the signature picture looks like a Fleetwood, Bounder
The 5 watt panel is just to tickle (yes tickle Not Trickle) the engine battery when the RV is in storage, if you use disconnect switches by the door when storing the RV,you probably won't even notice not having it
If you have shore power available or run the generator once a month for upkeep maintenance, the BCC will keep both house and engine batteries charged, it will also do this when the engine is running, BCC battery control center, black box under front hatch/hood with relays and fuses, the power center for 12v RV wiring that is not chassis and not part of living area, jacks, seats,steps,slides, etc..
A tree branch broke the wiring on my 5 watt panel, I full time, I have not bothered to replace that panel