I'm looking for a solar system to use for battery charging, light a/c use such as charging ipad/phones, a couple hours of TV daily and a cpac machine. No microwave or a/c. This will be used in conjunction with two Trojan 6 volt 106s. This system was recommended by a local firm:Aims 1000 watt Pure sine wave inverter/charger. $675C35 Xantrex controller with LCD display and breakers. $275Three 100 watt panels with roof mounting. $210 eachLabor to install. $420A grand total of $2070. I can buy the Aims inverter/charger for a couple of hundred bucks cheaper on line but I don't have the skills to install. The guys seem very professional and have a good reputation in the area. They assure me they can install it so it looks like it came from the factory. Does this sound like a good system at a fair price for my needs.

Hi,Quality panels are under $1.00 per watt.The Aims is a bottom of the barrel inverter with no ability to be repaired post warranty. Xantrex makes a model that is better with larger capacity for $355.00I think you mean a Xantrex charge controller. It is not MPPT and could be replaced by an Ecoworthy for $30.00.I think you should find a different firm.

Sounds expensive. I decided to use one 24V nominal panel, 235W. I have a Morningstar MPPT controller and a Xantrex Prowatt 1000W inverter. Price of this gear was about $725. There were additional costs like the temp compensation cable, wiring, conduit, controller interface cable, battery monitor, aluminum for mounting, etc. I also have a fancy distribution panel with multiple switches, fusing, buss boxes, and cabling. I don't want to tally what that cost.:RThe solar system with 300AH of battery storage runs the 120V fridge, the entertainment gear, all the 12V gear, and occasional AC appliances. Solar is simply the easiest way to keep batteries healthy. You should do an energy audit to assess what size your system needs to be.

Labor looks good but component prices are high. But I assume the high price includes wire, fuses, boxes, sealant, connectors, mount brackets and general provisions.Do you need an inverter/charger? Do you need 1000 watt inverter? I am thinking 300 watt inverter only.If you charge with a generator... what converter do you have?Also verify where the panels will be mounted to avoid shade issues from vents, antenna and air conditioner. At least express your concern to them.Honestly self install is not that difficult but is a bit tedious.panels => controller => fuse => batteryBattery => fuse => inverter => transfer switch => single circuitTwo separate systems actually. Just connected at the battery.Forum Members Solar Installations With Pic

pianotuna wrote:Hi,Quality panels are under $1.00 per watt.The Aims is a bottom of the barrel inverter with no ability to be repaired post warranty. Xantrex makes a model that is better with larger capacity for $355.00I think you mean a Xantrex charge controller. It is not MPPT and could be replaced by an Ecoworthy for $30.00.I think you should find a different firm.They'll probably have a better luck with independent RV installers. Most "firms" are dealing with shore homes and have no clue as to RV installs. As SMK noted, one should keep an eye on that installer guy, be it firm or no firm. Or they would attach 40lb panel to EPDM roof with a sticky tape and no screws. They do this, no kidding.Yes, Xantrex are better inverters. I'm confused though, what model they are selling for $355: 600W or 1200W. Yes, I think they meant Xantrex/Tracer C35. With all due respect, Ecoworthy will barely cut it for 300W array. Xantrex C35 is a fine controller for this application, and $275 with display and "breakers" is reasonable, just make sure that installers won't skip on $20 remote temperature sensor.Good +200W 24V panels are indeed cheap, but 100W panels cost more per watt. "Quality" panels are rare this days, with influx of unknown quality products of Chinese origin. I agree that digging through this big pile of cr-ap one could find 100W panels for $100-120 :) ...I don't think the OP need to go for big +200W panels that would in turn necessitate $$$ MPPT controller. Ecoworthy MPPT a little small for this array. It costs $100, not $30.$1600 for 300W solar in parts alone, jeez... It cost me less to buy 500W and quite decent MPPT controller 2 years ago when prices were higher. My inverter is a cheap 175W, though.

Solar System Advice/Feedback for new Truck Camper

111 Replies

3_tons
Explorer III
Aug 01, 2014
Fubeca wrote:
Z brackets fasten to the bottom of the solar panel, then directly to the roof (or rack). If you use a Z bracket by itself to mount to an RV roof, you would have to undo the screws/glue from the roof if you ever want to remove the panel.

Most RV installs use some type of bracket that can be unfastened from the panel without removing the screws/glue/tape/sealant that fastens the bracket to the roof.

Exactly, Z brackets secure well but IF you later decide to remove a panel, its difficult to remove the underside of panel from the bracket (only 1" of working space to roof), so easier to R&R bracket from roof - though disturbing sealant.
Almot
Explorer III
Aug 01, 2014
Fubeca wrote:
Z brackets fasten to the bottom of the solar panel, then directly to the roof (or rack). If you use a Z bracket by itself to mount to an RV roof, you would have to undo the screws/glue from the roof if you ever want to remove the panel.

Yes, with a one-piece Z-bracket this is so.

With a 2-piece Z-bracket like in the link above you can remove the panel without removing the bracket from the roof. Though I don't like a single bolt joining 2 pieces of such a bracket, it might cause a play. I also don't like that height adjustment is provided by a vertical slot - the panel might slide up-down in this slot.

It's easy enough to make your own 2-piece Z-bracket. A piece of 1/8 or 3/16 aluminum angle, 2" long, so that you can put 2 bolts joining both parts together. Make it 3" long if you want 2 anchor screws in the roof per bracket. Size 2x2 or 3x3. Drill the holes - 1/4" for joiner bolts and #3/16" for #10 anchor screws. Done.
Fubeca
Explorer
Aug 01, 2014
Z brackets fasten to the bottom of the solar panel, then directly to the roof (or rack). If you use a Z bracket by itself to mount to an RV roof, you would have to undo the screws/glue from the roof if you ever want to remove the panel.

Most RV installs use some type of bracket that can be unfastened from the panel without removing the screws/glue/tape/sealant that fastens the bracket to the roof.
JiminDenver
Explorer II
Aug 01, 2014
I would think that Z shaped brackets are intended for use with a rack, not flat mounting on the roof.
hedge
Explorer
Aug 01, 2014
I would like to also add my thanks to the posters in this thread.

I have been following this thread like a hawk since I am also considering adding solar to my truck camper. I have also learned quite a bit, especially on the debate between PWM and MPPT controllers.

I'm still not sure I understand the issues with Z shaped mounting brackets though. It sounds like it makes it difficult to get to the bolts or something but I guess I can't visualize it.
Almot
Explorer III
Aug 01, 2014
Mike, I realize that a lot of this info was not too useful because your goals turned out to be modest.

What you want from solar sounds more like "battery maintenance", rather than "charging". You plan running a generator few times a day. There is no need to have a big solar to keep batteries topped up between those runs. A single 100W or 140W panel with any PWM controller will do the job. No parallel wiring, no beefy cable, no rooftop junction box. Simple.
mena661
Explorer
Aug 01, 2014
BFL13 wrote:
Hey Almot, good work on replies, especially about roof brackets etc. it takes some effort to give a thorough answer. BZ!
X2 great work Almot!
Mike3
Explorer
Aug 01, 2014
Thanks Almot, you have been very helpful as have others. I appreciate it!
BFL13
Explorer II
Jul 31, 2014
Hey Almot, good work on replies, especially about roof brackets etc. it takes some effort to give a thorough answer. BZ!
Almot
Explorer III
Jul 31, 2014
Mike@Asheville wrote:
I confess, I don't know how you determine to wire parallel or in series. For my needs what would be best?

Probably there is already too much info on 11 pages.

I wrote this before: with PWM controller you HAVE to wire panels in parallel.

Parallel wiring is better on your small roof, but you would need a beefy cable from panels to controller. And, possibly - rooftop junction box to transition from thin panel wires to that beefy cable. The only commercially available junction box: AM Solar. Vent-mounted box is $60, another one is $80 I think.

You might need Y-splitters for parallel wiring. 2*140W panels at Solar Blvd have 2 splitters included. This has been already mentioned before.

With your 280W it is possible - I think - to avoid rooftop box while doing parallel wiring. You use Y-splitters to transition from #10 pigtail wire of panels to #8 MC4 cable extension, run this #8 cable to inside, and install any $5 Home Depot junction box inside, to transition from #8 to #4 cable. #8 MC4 extension you can buy at Unlimited Solar, as mentioned earlier - don't remember on what page. Long threads are difficult to follow.

MPPT controllers - except for Eco 20 - give you a choice of parallel or series wiring. Series wiring allows a thinner cable, so you don't need the rooftop box.