starting up refrig...lp or electric

Changed post thanks to redracers information

Going from 120 volts to 110 volts represents a power loss of 54 watts. My own fridge works well down to 100 volts (a loss of 101 watts, or about the heat of a candle).

Before I had my autoformer I would sometimes switch to gas--but that was to help compensate for low voltage when I was forcing the Magnum Hybrid inverter into doing not just load support, but voltage support (I do not recommend forcing the Magnum to do voltage support).

dougrainer wrote:

myredracer wrote:
If you have low voltage where you are (like below 110), I'd use propane because the output of the electric element can drop significantly. CGs are mostly where you can find low voltage and if at home, your voltage should be close to or at 120 and electric should be fine and won't notice a difference. Saving propane is never a bad idea!

I should have mentioned this. ALWAYS monitor your 120 line voltage with a Multimeter. ANY 120 voltage below 110 will yield inadequate cooling on 120. So, switch to LP when line voltages are too low due to demand in the CG. Doug

Depends on who is paying for the electricity.

I usually load my fridge in storage. We bring a cooler with the essentials, transfer the cold food and start the propane and hit the road. There is no real choice.

Back when storage was closer we would bring it home to pack. Still I would fire up the propane and let it precool some but still we were soon on the road so not going to bother to plug in.

I always just run my fridge on gas, even when plugged in.. Just cools better overall for me and I'd rather have the flame instead of a glow plug doing the work..

Just what I do and it works for me.. Don't care what other's do, nor what they think I should do.. :)

Good luck!

Mitch

myredracer wrote:
If you have low voltage where you are (like below 110), I'd use propane because the output of the electric element can drop significantly. CGs are mostly where you can find low voltage and if at home, your voltage should be close to or at 120 and electric should be fine and won't notice a difference. Saving propane is never a bad idea!

I should have mentioned this. ALWAYS monitor your 120 line voltage with a Multimeter. ANY 120 voltage below 110 will yield inadequate cooling on 120. So, switch to LP when line voltages are too low due to demand in the CG. Doug

I start mine up on auto which means elec since it is plugged into the garage on start up.

I don't notice the difference.

What Doug says

If you have low voltage where you are (like below 110), I'd use propane because the output of the electric element can drop significantly. CGs are mostly where you can find low voltage and if at home, your voltage should be close to or at 120 and electric should be fine and won't notice a difference. Saving propane is never a bad idea!

I prefer to do the cool down on electric so as to save the propane for the trip. My Dometic takes 5.5 hours before the first "cycle".

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU ..... AGAIN

Facts. LP will be about 10 minutes faster at cooling startup. The BTU of the 120 element and the LP burner is about identical. The reason LP will be 10 minutes faster at start up, is because the LP flame is hot enough to go up the flue immediately. The 120 element has to reach operating temp and then transfer the heat to the flue tube. That is the 10 minutes. 120 or LP, either one will cool identically. DOUG