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evy's avatar
evy
Explorer
Apr 12, 2016

Switch panel vs campervan's 12V DC system

Hi everyone,

I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250.



I've added some 27W LED lights :
4 top front, 27W x 4 = 108W/12V = 9AMP
2 lower front, 27W x 2 = 54W/12V = 4.5AMP
2 top side, 27W x 2 = 54W/12V = 4.5AMP
2 top rear, 27W x 2 = 54W/12V = 4.5AMP
(before you say anything, no I won't be using them on public roads, only in trails or at a campsite and when the van is running)

The lights are installed but I didn't wire anything yet.
I want to add them to the van's DC system but I have a couple of questions.

Instead of adding switches here and there with hidden fuses I want to add a switch panel (see pictures) somewhere easily accessible when I'm driving,

1-Do I run only two wires from the van's battery to the switch panel?

2-Do I need to add one main fuse for the whole thing?

3-These switch panels have 6 switches, as of now I only have 4 light circuits but I will probably add my rear view camera/monitor to it. so do I use the maximum wire gauge? (adding the fuse's amps)

4-If I'm correct the light inside the switch itself only lights up when you press it?

5-What kind of wire should I use on the outside, I red that Marine tinned wires are best?

6-What wire gauge? According to the internet I should be using 18 gauge wires for the 9AMP (4 top LED lights) if I have under 10' of wire, 16 gauge if I have longer.

7-What kind of connections should I do? end to end connectors with heat shrink? would that be water proof?

8-Do I need relays for each circuits?

Is there something else I should know? I've never done this before.

Thanks!







8 Replies

  • Just installed this, now I have to wire everything up, and add a main breaker.



  • So if I understand, according to this article, when the circuit is under 10amps I don't need a relay? can anyone confirm?

    http://www.fourthgen.net/automotive-relays-functions-uses.shtml

    Is that what you mean when you say "low amp" Kayteg1?

    Kayteg1 wrote:
    So those are off-road lights.
    25 or more amps going via add-on switch brings several concerns.
    The proper way would be use relays and short wires straight from fuse box to the lights and use the panel for low amp controls only.
  • So those are off-road lights.
    25 or more amps going via add-on switch brings several concerns.
    The proper way would be use relays and short wires straight from fuse box to the lights and use the panel for low amp controls only.
  • Yup. It got resettable breakers.

    My toad has a CREE 300 (actual) watt lightbar (5-watt CREE chips)

    PLUS

    A PAIR of 100-watt HELLA 9004 bulbs in the headlights.

    Pretty please folks, dip your headlights for me

    Or

    Suffer the consequences.
  • westend wrote:
    Fusing each circuit is much more elegant as a short of one device won't effect the others. The price is not that much greater. You could even install a small fuse block for ease of connection. The main feed to the switch panel will also require a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery.


    But doesn't that switch panel in the picture already have all the fuses for each circuit?

    B.T.W. thanks for the offer ;-)
  • 10 AWG to the switch panel. 14 AWG to the devices (lights). There is no good reason to complicate wire gauges and choose multiple gauges. Larger wire is more robust and less chance of problems.

    Heat shrink all connections with color coded heat shrink. In the event of a parted wire, replacement with the correct polarity will be much easier.

    Fusing each circuit is much more elegant as a short of one device won't effect the others. The price is not that much greater. You could even install a small fuse block for ease of connection. The main feed to the switch panel will also require a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery.

    Yes you will connect a (+) phase and a (-) phase to the switch panel. Each device's power will have a (+) phase from the switch panel and some means of connecting (-) phase connection. TYpically the (-) phase is connected to the vehicles body and hence, to the frame. An alternative is to capture all (-) phase and feed that back directly to the battery. That is a better system as it eliminates contact corrosion as a potential issue. It is also more work.

    If you were closer, I could make you a present of 1K ft. of AWG 14. I have a few reels lying about. As it is, a reel of THHN AWG 14 is about $40, stateside.
  • Kayteg1 wrote:
    I have a feeling that you mistook "equivalent" rating for real consumption.
    27W LED would be illegal even as headlight as it would be too powerful.
    That unless you have off-road lights with that power.
    Coming to panel, you will be drawing small amps for whole system, so I would tap 25 amp wire to main fuse panel (most of vehicles do have empty slot) and not worry about more fuses.


    there are 9 x 3W LED bulbs in each lights
    http://www.amazon.com/EN-JG-W091-S-SW-SERIES-SQUARE-REQUIRES-HARNESS/dp/B00U1WZ15G

  • I have a feeling that you mistook "equivalent" rating for real consumption.
    27W LED would be illegal even as headlight as it would be too powerful.
    That unless you have off-road lights with that power.
    Coming to panel, you will be drawing small amps for whole system, so I would tap 25 amp wire to main fuse panel (most of vehicles do have empty slot) and not worry about more fuses.