Water dripping from heater pressure relief valve

Huntindog wrote:
They do wear out. This can be the source of the water pump running at random when no fixtures are being used.

You can live with it or replace it. Last one I bought was about $12.

Yes it can, or could be a leak somewhere in the pluming & you wont know until the floor caves in.

The old GBM we had a few years ago, someone had installed a small pressure tank under the kitchen sink & when using water, it took a few seconds of drain down for the pump to come on & build back up to full pressure.

After having one of those pressure tanks in a rv, looks like all the rv MFGs would install them as a regular standard item.
Neil

We had a leak for most of the 6 months winter 2 years ago so after arriving home I removed the relief valve and soaked it in vinegar for 3 days and no leak for this last winters 6 months visit. I usually give the end of the valve a slight tap after doing the water chamber deal.

chevman

Clay L wrote:
Regarding the air pocket. The following is from the Atwood manual.

"To replace the air pocket start by turning off the water
heater, shut off the incoming water supply
and open the closest hot water faucet. Pull the
handle on the pressure-temperature relief valve
straight out to allow the water to flow from the top
part of the tank. Once the water has stopped
flowing allow the handle on the valve to snap shut,
close the faucet and re-engage the water supply."

Same info in Suburban manual.
Water expands when heated....air pocket allows for expansion

The Texan wrote:
No problem at all. it will "gradually" get worse, but there is NO hurry to change it. Also, it is a common item available at any hardware store, NOT RV specific. Just pull it so you know which model you have, there are 3 or 4 different ones and go to your local store to get a replacement. I was in the same boat and went a year before I changed mine.

They ARE RV specific. The Temp rod is shorter than a standard residential Pop Valve. So, make sure the Hardware store one has the shorter rod. Doug

mlts22 wrote:
I wonder if it might help to drain the water heater completely, then refill it. That way, the air pocket on top will get rebuilt, which should minimize the amount of water coming from the relief valve.

Very short answer: YES.

Somewhat longer answer: That is, in fact, the recommended first thing to try.

Let Water cool, turn off city water and open a faucet to bleed off pressure, Remove drain plug, If WH is a Surburan inspect anode (if so equipped) if Atwood, now is a good time to do a drain mod (Mods posted in other threads).

Open TPR valve using manual lever, Let drain, Use flush wand to flush out any debris in tank,, Close TPR,, Replace anode or plug (Depending on heater model) Re-charge water system.

Restore heat


Job done.

Regarding the air pocket. The following is from the Atwood manual.

"To replace the air pocket start by turning off the water
heater, shut off the incoming water supply
and open the closest hot water faucet. Pull the
handle on the pressure-temperature relief valve
straight out to allow the water to flow from the top
part of the tank. Once the water has stopped
flowing allow the handle on the valve to snap shut,
close the faucet and re-engage the water supply."

RJsfishin wrote:
While X2 for an accumulator tank, I sure don't know how that would stop a PV seepage. Mine has always seeped, and I have an accumulator tank.

smkettner wrote:
Get a small accumulator to resolve the issue.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-accumulator-tank/2290

Mine would consistantly leak when going full cold to hot without water use. It would cause a spike in water pressure because of the closed system. On mine it also caused a very difficult to find intermittant leak by the water pump due to a bad fitting.

Fixed the fitting, added the accumulator to provide space for expansion, no issues since.

If the accumulator does not resolve the issue then it is probably time to replace the valve. Or just ignor it as normal.

I lube the stem of my TPI valve with plumbers silicone grease, available at any plumbing supply house or Do It Center.

While X2 for an accumulator tank, I sure don't know how that would stop a PV seepage. Mine has always seeped, and I have an accumulator tank.

smkettner wrote:
Get a small accumulator to resolve the issue.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-accumulator-tank/2290