Water Heater - On my last nerve

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Both brands have pros/cons.

On that... I fully agree with you.

I think I have a problem with the outside switch as well. I have checked the power all the way to the WH side of the internal switch, and all is well. How do I get in behind the outside switch to check out the wiring? And since I have an internal switch, can I simply remove the outside one and direct wire it?

On my Suburban WH outside switch, I gently pried is out using a flat head screwdriver. I was able to remove without any damage. I removed and reattached the connections and the problem resolved itself. Probably will have to replace the switch itself someday.

pewterman20 wrote:
I think I have a problem with the outside switch as well. I have checked the power all the way to the WH side of the internal switch, and all is well. How do I get in behind the outside switch to check out the wiring? And since I have an internal switch, can I simply remove the outside one and direct wire it?

Is inside switch for 'electric' also?

Do you have 2 switches inside......one for electric and one for propane?

If you have an inside switch for electric YES you can get rid of outside switch.

Outside switch just snaps in..usually end up breaking them when trying to pry them out.

wa8yxm wrote:
One of the differences between my Atwood and SOME (At least) Surburan models.

Every Atwood I have seen uses a SINGLE pair of Thermostats, (Main T-Stat and ECO or Emergency Cut Out) this same pair is used for both Gas and Electric operation via the control board.

Surburan may (on at least some models) use TWO different T-Stats. I know they have two over-temp Reset buttons on some models.

This too can be an issue.

Good luck.. Also, if you post specific model I can and will (If I return to this thread) Download and read the manual less you fix it first.

Atwood went to single set of t-stats during 2003. By doing so you need 12V DC power for electric and propane operation.

If the single set of t-stats fail/break/have issues....no electric or propane heating.
With Suburban you can still use one or other....provided you ave AC power.

Suburban uses straight AC power for electric operation....no DC power needed


Both brands have pros/cons.

One of the differences between my Atwood and SOME (At least) Surburan models.

Every Atwood I have seen uses a SINGLE pair of Thermostats, (Main T-Stat and ECO or Emergency Cut Out) this same pair is used for both Gas and Electric operation via the control board.

Surburan may (on at least some models) use TWO different T-Stats. I know they have two over-temp Reset buttons on some models.

This too can be an issue.

Good luck.. Also, if you post specific model I can and will (If I return to this thread) Download and read the manual less you fix it first.

There's at least one more thread about Suburban Water Heaters, the Outdoor Switch and relationship to the Anode Rod. Good practice when the Anode Rod is removed, which also DRAINS the Water Heater, is to turn that Outside Switch OFF. That way, nobody inside the coach can turn the electric side of the heater ON. Doing so when the tank was drained would burn out the electric element. Think of it as a failsafe.

I think I have a problem with the outside switch as well. I have checked the power all the way to the WH side of the internal switch, and all is well. How do I get in behind the outside switch to check out the wiring? And since I have an internal switch, can I simply remove the outside one and direct wire it?

This is just a good reminder to be aware that electrical connections in a severe environment need attention. The faulty switch in this case is located very close to both the water heater which gets drained and open to the elements of whatever weather is present.

I have no issues with any of the connections and switches inside my rig but anything outside is treated with an anti-corrosion spray. It is an easy maintenance task and doesn't require any continual attention. I am currently using Caig Deoxit Gold until a better solution is found.

Well after troubleshooting power from the breaker all the way the element I found it! Thanks for the nudge.

It turns out it was the SWITCH outside on the water heater. I am not sure whether the connection was to blame or the switch itself, but after fiddling with it, I am back in business. I will probably have to replace it eventually.

Gosh all the components in these campers are so cheap. After every trip I have a post it note filled with maintenance issues to address.

Thanks again.

Switch on the wall is for gas operation and switch at WH is for electric op - they are totally separate from each other.