Water heater plastic plug

wa8yxm wrote:

salem wrote:
I have an Atwood 6 ga. water heater. It uses a plastic plug as opposed to the Suburban heaters that use an anode rod. Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe." I'm certainly no expert, but I've never read on these forums that this is a good idea. Do any of you do this?

Not sure if this is high school chemistry or physics but it is HS science so we should all know it,, no need for a college degree (but I got one of those too)

Every element and every metal and alloy has a "Valiance" number.. Now It has been a long time since I took the class so I'd need to research it a bit to be detailed enough but I recall what they mean

Pretty much spot on, but - perhaps thou means
valance rather than valiance?
Dr Handler would be so proud of me ;) ;)

I run an anode in my atwood. Not real sure if it has saved my tank or not. But the water here will eat the anode almost completely in a single summer.

Now for my reason: Bought the camper and tank was frozen and split.
-welded it back together and pressure tested...
-I knew that I had changed the aluminum mixed with whatever else ppl say these are made with.
-So I ran with the anode just to try and make it last. $20.00 investment. I've spent more on crazier things.

“The plug is not plastic. It is nylon. Why do people constantly try to reinvent the wheel?”

Not nice.

I believe a 15/16 socket will fit the half inch "NYLON" plug.:B

Gdetrailer,

I'm on my third nylon plug and I do use socket for removal and replacement. I some times winterize 7 times between October and April. A valve might make that a bit more convenient, especially at -30.

I do know that there are plastic valves for Reverse Osmosis systems.

pianotuna wrote:
Does anyone know of a nylon plug that has an integrated drain valve? Thanks in advance.

They used to be readily available. I have one. When this thread started, I was quite surprised that they weren't mentioned. Then I searched. I guess they're no long made.

pianotuna wrote:
Does anyone know of a nylon plug that has an integrated drain valve? Thanks in advance.

:R

It isn't "rocket science", "brain surgery", require a Masters degree or even the need to stay in a "Holiday Inn" to remove and reinstall a simple little "nylon" (to keep in politically correct and not call it plastic) plug nor is it difficult to do so without causing damage or even being inconvenient..

Yes, the Attwood plug location is a bit of a pain to get to, but it CAN be done and you do not HAVE to drain it every day. ONCE A SEASON IS PLENTY or when extreme cold camping drain it before things freeze.

They DO make a special tool for removing and installing, it doesn' cost a arm or leg or you can use standard every day and easy to find socket and wrench with a short extension.

Absolutely no "need" for Anode rod, no need for drain valves or petcocks, in fact I absolutely HATED that lousy miserable brass drain petcock on the Suburban water heater my first TT had.. Blasted brass petcocks tend to get really stuck shut which requires using a pair of channel locks bending the ears and hopefully not snapping it off in the process.. And as luck had it, the Suburban petcock also was in such a place that even was a challenge to get channel locks into..

Buy the stupid NYLON PLUG and use either the special tool or a socket wrench with a short extension and move on.

The Nylon plug IS the proper tool for the job.. That is what the manufacturer designed to be used.

Does anyone know of a nylon plug that has an integrated drain valve? Thanks in advance.

SoundGuy wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
Anode rods are magnesium
Not steel

Not true - one can buy anode rods made of magnesium, aluminum, or zinc.

None of those 3 metals is steel

And my original post was a response to this statement

"anode rods are steel" nothing in that statement about plugs, or threaded end holders

I just put a new nylon drain plug in my WH

wa8yxm wrote:

salem wrote:
I have an Atwood 6 ga. water heater. It uses a plastic plug as opposed to the Suburban heaters that use an anode rod. Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe." I'm certainly no expert, but I've never read on these forums that this is a good idea. Do any of you do this?

Not sure if this is high school chemistry or physics but it is HS science so we should all know it,, no need for a college degree (but I got one of those too)

Every element and every metal and alloy has a "Valiance" number.. Now It has been a long time since I took the class so I'd need to research it a bit to be detailed enough but I recall what they mean

Different metals react differently.. The metal used by Suburban in their tanks is fairly reactive with most water so they use a SACRIFICIAL anode to protect it .. The metal used by Atwood is far less reactive. and thus the anode is not only not needed.... it voids the warranty.

NOTE brass will react with the metal of the Atwood tank so brass plugs ALSO void the warranty.. This is why they use Nylon.

Will a Sacrificial anode bother the Atwood.. not sure (do not think so) but it voids so don't do it.

Hummmmmmmmm.....
Brass
Atwood T&P Relief Valve is Brass.
Atwood heater element is steel

NYLON is used for drain plug for severals reasons....one being the frequency of removing/installing plug

Suburban......
They use a Steel tank that has a sprayed on glass-lining
JUST like residential water heater
Anode rod is nessecary to help keep steel tank from rusting out because glass-lining cracks & doesn't completely cover all surfaces
(I don't have a college degree---)