What's the fridge flame supposed to look like ?

I will let CloudDriver answer to that.

Otherwise the only adjustment is to verify no restrictions. Jet could also have issues. I was just pointing where to look.
I would just replace if I am removing it anyway. Maybe on the road I would attempt to clean it.

jetcare wrote:

CloudDriver wrote:
Adjust the air inlet - needs more air for the normal blue flame.

And just where is this air inlet adjustment?

smkettner wrote:

John&Joey wrote:

^^^ very near the propane jet.

Do you have a picture you could post?
Or a link to a manual?

:E

I'm sure he's thinking about the hot water heater, and not the fridge. :W

The holes are right there next to the jet.

Plenty more on google images

Glad to see that nice blue flame :)

I think what was in question is the air adjustment part, that the up arrows were pointing too. That can be adjusted on a HWH, not so much on a fridge, as your picture even shows.

I'm getting an occasional backfire out of it. I guess the next step is to blow it out again and maybe find a WC" meter to check pressures

John&Joey wrote:

^^^ very near the propane jet.

Do you have a picture you could post?
Or a link to a manual?

:E

I'm sure he's thinking about the hot water heater, and not the fridge. :W

The holes are right there next to the jet.

Plenty more on google images

Glad to see that nice blue flame :)

Looks like a new burner tub. :)

I'm in a very high salt area also. One of the things I've learnt is to watch the shaft that runs the fan on the AC unit. Some are nice and thick while others not so much. Salt air will rust that shaft down to the size of pencil lead before it breaks. A coat of never seize goes a long way in prevention.

Ready for another beach trip now. Salt air is corrosive.

WELL THIS IS BETTER....



Anii-seize on the joints, although salt corrosion is pretty nasty stuff. I think I'll swedge me up another flare tube and keep it handy for next time.

Chris Bryant wrote:
I always apply never seize to the outside if the aluminum tubing on those when installing. I also often remove the burner and tubing, if the valve end will break free.

Chris, a few years back you put out an excellent article on fridge maintenance. I tried to find it both with Google and this forum's search function to no avail.

Any hints on where that article may be hiding if it's still out there.

I always apply never seize to the outside if the aluminum tubing on those when installing. I also often remove the burner and tubing, if the valve end will break free.

SCVJeff wrote:
This gets worse.. I relied to remove it to clean tonight, but the aluminum tube between the valve and the burner has corroded onto their brass compression nuts at both ends. I tried to remove but all I am doing is twisting the tubing, so it's off to the parts store before the burner can be removed.

Salt air and beach trips will aggravate that chemical reaction. A properly oxygenated flame should be blue, have 2 flames within each other, one a very small pyramid at the bottom of the flame, another 10x the size of the small flame.

It should also have a bit of a "jet engine" or ripping sound to the flame, when properly oxygenated, just like a good laboratory Bunsen burner or Propane or Mapp gas tip.