Wiring outlets, inverter and shore power

time2roll wrote:
Both 5-15P and 5-20P work fine in 5-20R
Why do you need 5-20P?

Exactly. Lug weight in both versions are identical and have the ability to carry the same load, the only difference being the 20 amp has one pin turned 90 degrees to prevent it from being plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Electrically the 20 amp version offers no advantage over the 15 amp.

Inverters come in two (or 3) types for this discussion.

1: built in outlet/outlets
2: "junction box" (also built in)
3: Both (The outlets are mounted on the face of the junction box)

In the first kind... I'd just plug in with a plug 20 amp if it will take it, else 15

On the others You can connect in the junction box.

Both 5-15P and 5-20P work fine in 5-20R
Why do you need 5-20P?

SoundGuy wrote:

...
Conventional NEMA 20 amp plugs and receptacles are sold at all the big box stores around here I've been to - Home Depot, Rona, Lowes -
...

I'll have to look again, but while the NEMA 5-20R receptacles are easy to find, the 20A NEMA 5-20P plugs, with one prong sideways, are more difficult, at least online.

hbillsmith wrote:
Isn't this good enough or should I be doing a permanent mount like some of the solutions previously described?

Good enough? Sure it is your RV. I got bored with the cords and junk so I wired mine in to connect to all the existing outlets. Always ready just push a button and power is right where you need it. I like it much better especially when the others can just get what they need without one more chore for me.

hbillsmith wrote:
Isn't this good enough or should I be doing a permanent mount like some of the solutions previously described?

Sure it's good enough, but kinda kludgy, especially if you do this all the time. I just like stuff neat and safe and not tacky looking.

Be much better if you wired up an outlet permanently.

The extension cord through an open window is great--except for all the mosquitoes. You already have a cord for that which does not require an open window or door, called the Shore Power Cord.

Just plug that into the inverter via 30/15, turn off the converter, put fridge and WH to gas

Not trying to hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question for the RV wire mentors now in this thread. I carry a small 750watt inverter with me for the sole purpose of watching TV when not on shore power (Walmart log, boondock, roadside, etc).

When I use it, I just attach the little guy directly to the trailers sole 95ah AGM battery using the lug cables that came with it (no way are these heavy duty like I would use for a permanent mount further from the battery). I then just plug a good-ole yellow heavy duty extension cord from Home Depot and drop it thru the window by my rear entertainment. It's there that I have a multiplug that has the LED TV and Dish Sat box plugged in.

That's usually good for about a couple of hours of TV and usually turn it all off before then.

Isn't this good enough or should I be doing a permanent mount like some of the solutions previously described?

Most 120v connectors are designed for solid wire so I would stick with that.
Fine stranded wire really needs a clamp plate under the screw.

Stranded wire for 120v:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-wire/flat-triplex-ac-boat-wire

brulaz wrote:
To support the full 16.7A I should probably replace that plug with a NEMA 5-20P, a 20A plug. These only seem available at specialty electrical shops.

Conventional NEMA 20 amp plugs and receptacles are sold at all the big box stores around here I've been to - Home Depot, Rona, Lowes - 'though you're unlikely to find speed box receptacles which you'd normally source from an RV dealer. If load is an issue you might want to replace questionable receptacles with Leviton commercial grade versions that will support their rated full load but require different mounting than speed box versions.