Do Rvers use regular romex, or something more flexible?I plan to have separate outlets for inverter and shore, so I don't run something off battery unawarely. Can I open up the inverter and screw or solder onto connections inside? Does that void the warranty? Or do people just cut an extension cord, plug one end into inverter and wire outlets with the other? I'd anchor the cord, of course, but this method still seems rednecky.BTW, I found I can get outlets in more colors than I knew, to distinguish the inverter ones.

FROM THE INVERTER OUTPUTjust buy some 12ga SJ rubber cord at home depot etcget 4SQ box and mount outlets in it if you need more or make a long SJ run to where you want to mount the new outlets inside the RV, again with a boxthe inverter either comes with hard wire connection points or outletsopening it and soldering will VOID any warranty

Ok, flexible cord! Thanks :BI assume you mean any size and shape of boxes that fit what i am doing?

This coach is Romex, BUT.. all cable: DC & AC are sheathed with Slit-Wrap for abrasion protection. Anything I change or add is also in Slit-Wrap, including the indestructible Super Excelene 4/0 cable. Can't be too safe

I don't know about most people, but it's really easy to plug your shore cord in.I used Romex for a hard-wire job.

Naio wrote:Do Rvers use regular romex, or something more flexible?Can I open up the inverter and screw or solder onto connections inside?Why in the world would you open up the inverter? Most have at least 2 receptacles into which you'd plug standard 15 amp connectors so that's just what I did ...... running one SJ rubber cord to the outside world where I terminated the cable with a Leviton WetGuard receptacle ...... and another over to a junction box I installed nearby in the front pass through cargo compartment.In the box I connected 3 lengths of Romex - 2 of which I then ran to each side of the bed and connected to dedicated inverter duplex receptacles ...... and a third over to the galley where I located a third dedicated inverter duplex receptacle.The the run to the galley receptacle had to go underfloor so I enclosed it in protective wire conduit.Easy. :B

Wiring outlets, inverter and shore power | Good Sam Community

27 Replies

SoundGuy
Explorer
May 08, 2017
SoundGuy wrote:
... this commercial grade Leviton NEMA 5-20P Plug...

brulaz wrote:
... and now I have one in hand. Just what I wanted. Thanks again.

Cool! :B
brulaz
Explorer
May 08, 2017
SoundGuy wrote:

...
this commercial grade Leviton NEMA 5-20P Plug
...

How did you find that???
:h
Swear I looked all over. Guess my web searching skills are not what I thought they were. Thanks.

EDIT ... LATER: and now I have one in hand. Just what I wanted. Thanks again. And my apologies Naio for the thread hijack.
SoundGuy
Explorer
May 08, 2017
time2roll wrote:
Both 5-15P and 5-20P work fine in 5-20R
Why do you need 5-20P?

SoundGuy wrote:
Exactly. Lug weight in both versions are identical and have the ability to carry the same load, the only difference being the 20 amp has one pin turned 90 degrees to prevent it from being plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Electrically the 20 amp version offers no advantage over the 15 amp.

brulaz wrote:
As stated earlier, I want a 20A rated plug because my inverter can produce 16.7A continuous and has a NEMA 5-20R rated receptacle to deliver this current.

Just because both 15 and 20A plugs will fit in a 5-20R socket does not mean they are electrically equivalent. The prongs may well be the same dimensions and weight, but what about the body of the plug?

You're overthinking this ... Home Depot here in Canada sells this industrial grade Leviton NEMA 5-15 Plug and this commercial grade Leviton NEMA 5-20P Plug, either of which would serve your purpose just fine. :)
Naio
Explorer II
May 08, 2017
SoundGuy, thanks for the pics! I liked how you used shape, rather than color, of receptacle to distinguish inverter from shore power. Very classy.

I think I need color because I am liable to do something foolish when tired, and color is more likely to wake me up.

RoyB, I do not really get it about the rotary switch. Do you (or anyone) feel like explaining further?
Naio
Explorer II
May 08, 2017
theoldwizard1 wrote:
time2roll wrote:
Most 120v connectors are designed for solid wire so I would stick with that.
Fine stranded wire really needs a clamp plate under the screw.

CONCUR ! But if you look, these are not hard to find. They cost a few bucks more.

Is that a flat plate with a tiny edge folded to 90 degrees to hold the wire in? Is that what those are called?

Thank you everyone in this thread, for the advice and info.

I have a lot of leftover romex, so it's free, but I drive on rough roads, so I am not sure I want to rely on it staying on screws. It's so stiff.
MrWizard
Moderator
May 08, 2017
thats NOT the point is
is charger can draw over 15amps, thus he wants to use a 20amp receptacle , so he does not have to replace it it later , because the 15 was subject to abuse

i have a 20amp Duplex where my 70amp PD converter plugs in
time2roll
Nomad
May 08, 2017
5-20P is not needed unless the appliance itself draws over 15 amps.
Millions of homes have 5-15R connected in a string on a 20 amp breaker.
brulaz
Explorer
May 08, 2017
SoundGuy wrote:
time2roll wrote:
Both 5-15P and 5-20P work fine in 5-20R
Why do you need 5-20P?

Exactly. Lug weight in both versions are identical and have the ability to carry the same load, the only difference being the 20 amp has one pin turned 90 degrees to prevent it from being plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Electrically the 20 amp version offers no advantage over the 15 amp.

As stated earlier, I want a 20A rated plug because my inverter can produce 16.7A continuous and has a NEMA 5-20R rated receptacle to deliver this current.

Just because both 15 and 20A plugs will fit in a 5-20R socket does not mean they are electrically equivalent. The prongs may well be the same dimensions and weight, but what about the body of the plug?

I have a short, 12 AWG extension cord with a molded-on 5-15P plug. The 12 AWG cord can handle 20A, but can the plug?

Maybe, but I'm thinking a NEMA 5-20P plug would be a safer bet.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
May 08, 2017
time2roll wrote:
Most 120v connectors are designed for solid wire so I would stick with that.
Fine stranded wire really needs a clamp plate under the screw.

CONCUR ! But if you look, these are not hard to find. They cost a few bucks more.
BFL13
Explorer II
May 08, 2017
SoundGuy wrote:
time2roll wrote:
Both 5-15P and 5-20P work fine in 5-20R
Why do you need 5-20P?

Exactly. Lug weight in both versions are identical and have the ability to carry the same load, the only difference being the 20 amp has one pin turned 90 degrees to prevent it from being plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Electrically the 20 amp version offers no advantage over the 15 amp.

It is all about the 12 gauge vs the 14 gauge wires. Got to have the 12 for using the 20.