A/C in 2006 trail cruiser 30' has no power

Lindsay Sorensen wrote:
We will double check that. It's hard to track the wire back as it goes behind the fridge and you can't see it or follow it . Not sure how to follow the wire without taking out the fridge to see it.

You can probably assume that the wires travelling behind the fridge are okay. If all else fails, then you will need to visually check later. For now concentrate on the junctions you can see. Verify that there is voltage leaving the main A/C breaker and that there is voltage arriving at the A/C unit as Bob suggested.

One other suggestion... there is a neutral bar inside your main fuse box. My 2004 Trail Cruiser 30QBSS started to act funny last year. It would trip breakers with just the slightest amount of load, and lots of heat from wiring and from the main panel.

When I checked the neutral bar, several of the wires were all burnt-up at the ends. The bar was made of aluminum, and without someone checking on it, eventually it loosened each set screw. The increased resistance of a not quite perfect contact caused higher amperage draws and a lot more heat. Try to inspect that bar and tighten each set screw while you're there.

Bob Landry wrote:

Nvr2loud wrote:

Lindsay Sorensen wrote:
We have checked all the fuses and they are all good. And have physically checked with a multi meter at the air conditioner unit and plugs and there is nothing.

Push the reset button on one of the plugs... likely the one inside the bathroom. That will most likely fix the outlet problem.

If the A/C still does not work, then you need to check the 12 volt fuses. I know you have already reset the 120 volt breaker and checked with a meter, but you need to check the 12 volt fuses. Pull them out and check with the ohm part of the meter.

The Op said in his last post, the one that you quoted, that he has checked all of the fuses. The button you are referring to wCI outlet and has nothing to do with the air conditioner. He needs to open the front of the converter and verify that the breaker is passing 120V(measured to neutral) and then go to the air conditioner and see if it's there. if it is not there, then there is an open or disconnected wire from the breaker to the AC. If both voltages are at the AC, then the circuit board on the AC is likely bad. Until these things happen, this thread is going to go in circles.

First Point: I did not suggest the GFIC had anything to do with the A/C problem. That is a second issue according to the OP

Second Point: I also stated that the OP had checked the fuses with a meter to ensure there was voltage. That test by itself does not indicate whether a fuse is good or not, especially when circuit boards are involved. I suggested pulling each fuse out and checking the ohm reading across the fuse. No ohm = open fuse = faulty.

After VERIFYING that all fuses are good then you can certainly proceed to other tests. I would have started with checking voltage at the places you described. I just wanted the OP to be sure that she had good fuses.

We will double check that. It's hard to track the wire back as it goes behind the fridge and you can't see it or follow it . Not sure how to follow the wire without taking out the fridge to see it.

One more thing.. Make sure all of the connections are tight at the power panel including neutrals. You could be getting 120V to the AC, but with no neutral to reference it to, you may not read it there.
There should not be any connections or wire splices between the panel and the AC.

It must be a broken wire as we have checked at the fuse and at the air conditioner. As there is 120v leaving the fuse and nothing at the air conditioner. Thanks for your help

Nvr2loud wrote:

Lindsay Sorensen wrote:
We have checked all the fuses and they are all good. And have physically checked with a multi meter at the air conditioner unit and plugs and there is nothing.

Push the reset button on one of the plugs... likely the one inside the bathroom. That will most likely fix the outlet problem.

If the A/C still does not work, then you need to check the 12 volt fuses. I know you have already reset the 120 volt breaker and checked with a meter, but you need to check the 12 volt fuses. Pull them out and check with the ohm part of the meter.

The Op said in his last post, the one that you quoted, that he has checked all of the fuses. The button you are referring to wCI outlet and has nothing to do with the air conditioner. He needs to open the front of the converter and verify that the breaker is passing 120V(measured to neutral) and then go to the air conditioner and see if it's there. if it is not there, then there is an open or disconnected wire from the breaker to the AC. If both voltages are at the AC, then the circuit board on the AC is likely bad. Until these things happen, this thread is going to go in circles.

Lindsay Sorensen wrote:
We have checked all the fuses and they are all good. And have physically checked with a multi meter at the air conditioner unit and plugs and there is nothing.

Push the reset button on one of the plugs... likely the one inside the bathroom. That will most likely fix the outlet problem.

If the A/C still does not work, then you need to check the 12 volt fuses. I know you have already reset the 120 volt breaker and checked with a meter, but you need to check the 12 volt fuses. Pull them out and check with the ohm part of the meter.

We have checked all the fuses and they are all good. And have physically checked with a multi meter at the air conditioner unit and plugs and there is nothing.

Check your 12V fuses. The AC runs on 120V, but needs 12V for control. The outlets that do not work are probably on a GFCI outlet. It will most likely be in the bathroom. The AC is going to be on it's own C/B, probably 20A, with nothing else attached, or at least there should not be.

Ya everything else works. Those are the only 3 things that don't have power to them. The fridge. Microwave. And all the other outlets work. And there's 120v coming out of the fuse that goes to the air conditioner