Adding Better Reverse Lights on a Camper

thundercloud wrote:
So if I go larger then the 20 watts do I wire directly to the camper batteries with a relay and tap into a reverse light that is already on the camper to activate the new backup lights?

Wire a relay into the truck's 12v system, unless you're mounting the lights on the camper itself. The objective is to not have to disconnect a bunch of stuff if you separate the two.

So if I go larger then the 20 watts do I wire directly to the camper batteries with a relay and tap into a reverse light that is already on the camper to activate the new backup lights?

skipro3 wrote:
My 2012 Lance camper comes with rear flood lights controlled with a rocker switch just inside the door. I discovered they also turn on when I put my truck in reverse!
So much for DOT and reverse lights not allowed to be manually switched....

They DOT rule may be that they can’t be switched from the drivers seat to prevent “flashing” the guy behind you but I don’t know for sure. They may also want to be sure it’s not left on by accident in which case any switch would count.

Since the camper is cargo, maybe the same rules don’t apply?

skipro3 wrote:
My 2012 Lance camper comes with rear flood lights controlled with a rocker switch just inside the door. I discovered they also turn on when I put my truck in reverse!
So much for DOT and reverse lights not allowed to be manually switched....

That's way cool. Kinda the best of both worlds. Did those come come stock with your camper?

Don't tell the DOT, but my lights are manually switched. I like to see behind the trailer, even if my trans is in park or drive, for purposes of lining up in a site for example.

My 2012 Lance camper comes with rear flood lights controlled with a rocker switch just inside the door. I discovered they also turn on when I put my truck in reverse!
So much for DOT and reverse lights not allowed to be manually switched....

In our state the REVERSE LIGHTS comes under the DOT SAFETY LIGHTS purview meaning they have to be DOT APPROVED. The lenses are required to have DOT ID numbers and of course I'm sure there is spec on how bright they might be. They also have to be wired in to operate from you going into REVERSE and not be wired to an individual ON-OFF switch.

I got around all of of this by mounting my back of the trailer lights to rear sides of the trailer. I can't see directly behind my trailer anyway so having side lights worked out just as good...

Not sure if your state has any problems with your planned install or not. Just passing along my licensed state would do...

Some guys have done rear trailer lights mods only to have to remove them to pass their required SAFETY INSPECTION... Checking with your local DMV/DOT would probably be a good idea before dumping monies into your project...

My 5th wheel has the 8-inch scare light mounted high on the side of my trailer which is no problem here in this state. This has a separate ON-OFF switch on the inside trailer wall.

Google image

My off-road Starcraft RT14 popup trailer has a single 8-inch scare light mounted on the front of the trailer to be used with the front deck and this has not been any problem. It has a separate ON-OFF switch on the inside wall.

Google image

Mounting brighter REVERSE LIGHTS under my RT14 trailer rear bumper had to be removed because they did not have DOT approved lens and also did not come ON when going into reverse from my truck...

Rear lights looked like these

Google image

Just passing on a couple of my experiences dealing with DMV/DOT inspections...

Roy ken

I have intended to do this with my car hauler trailer. I have also thought about on the camper. I feel, but don’t know because I haven’t tried, that it would be beneficial to mount them near the front, or half way along the trailer pointing out at a slight angle, so that the side of the trailer can be illuminated as well as the rear. That way you could see where your tires are and where you are steering the trailer

GordonThree wrote:

If you're looking at more than 20 watts of lights, consider using a relay to avoid taxing the existing lighting circuit.

So 20 watts is about the max you could go if you tap into the 7 pin harness? I was thinking of doing that but I was not sure if it would work or not.

If you've got package railing on the roof you can attach Docking lights to it.