Best Fridge Type

As long as it is propane/120v, I will be happy. If it happens to be propane/12v/120v, that is fine. I will just never run it solely on 12v.

I really like my 120v fridge. We have always camped with hookups, there just isn't much boondocking in the southeast. With 2 6v GC2 batteries we have done 12 hours on the road with no issues.
It cools really quickly, we can't keep the camper at the house (HOA) so we bring the camper to the house the night before we leave and load that night. The fridge is cold in a couple of hours.
Honestly, the fact it is not made by an RV parts supplier gives me more confidence in the fridge. I keep reading about issues with the Furrion fridge with the controls acting up, and the doors coming open in travel. You would think an RV fridge manufacturer would know they bounce around and the doors need to be secured.

My new trailer has a 12v fridge. We just camped 3 days 2 nights with one group 24 battery. It has a solar panel, but we were under trees.

However, my last trailer had an absorption fridge that is still flawless after almost 20 years, and could run most of the summer on a 30lb propane tank a little 12v juice.

My new Furrion 12v fridge makes quite a bit of noise when it periodically kicks on.

They work awesome but they suck down the battery when boondocking

Our latest fridge came with 12v compressor fridge. So far with 3yrs loving it:
- Easily 50% more interior space for the same cabinet space.
- Cools much more quickly (both on start up and when you put food in after shopping).
- Only draws about 50w when running (4amps@12v) and it doesn't run all the time.
- We have 2 - standard 12 batteries and it easily handles an overnight. If you want multiple days, solar can get you there but since we only boondock occasionally, charging from the truck while driving or running the generator for a couple hours does the trick.
- I wouldn't worry too much about getting parts. 12v compressor fridges are becoming the standard on new RVs, so if anything in 10yrs,absorption fridges will be more likely to have issues finding parts as they fade away.

A residential 120v AC fridge would be an option but then you need an inverter to run it while not connected to shore power.

May want to consider a residential fridge that would fit in the space. The area already has a 120-volt outlet there that you could change the power source to an inverter. If you all your time in shore power or generator a inverter and a good battery will carry you between hook ups. Fridge will be much cheaper, and you will not have to run a heavy gauge wire for a 12-volt unit.
I have a 120 unit in my cabin that runs off an inverter, battery and solar, have had propane in campers for years and just got a camper with a 12 volt. The new camper has 2 group 31 batteries charged by 2 190-watt solar panels anthe fridge has been running in the driveway for 6 days now.
In your case I would probably put in a propane unit. No changing wiring or running new stuff. Just install and go.

From what I have seen and heard, the newer 12V compressor models are the way to go. Especially if you don't boondock a lot. Just the increased cubic capacity and ditching all the issues that come with a Propane unit make it a winner for me. Most of the new TT's are equipped with these. Most are Norcold with service and parts readily available.

20 years and zero issues with any of the propane/120 Dometics we have had and they have the added bonus of having a backup system. No large draw from the batteries and it does not use much propane either. I may be a dinosaur but the only enemy of absorption reefers is the folks that own them. If you keep the flue and airway clear of webs and nests a unit will last a very long time. And perform well as long as it is not in a slide. JMHO.

I got a Dometic 12V fridge. It runs, but must have a special guage wire for it to run properly. Also, if something goes wrong, you might as well pray, cause you cannot get parts for it. I believe my thermostat is faulty, but can not get one unless I fork over $170 and wait 6 months. It runs well as long as it is on maximum setting. I am assuming all units that you look at that are made in China will have the same problem They are interested in selling them, but don't want to supply parts so one can repair it.