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woodmn08's avatar
woodmn08
Explorer
Apr 23, 2015

bigfoot 2008 sewage valve repairs

Has anyone had experience in removing the bottom panel and repairing the remote operated sewage valve.
Mine has been acting up and this year needs a fix or a lub job

8 Replies

  • did get this completed,it was quite the chore
    Might be a point next time to move the valve so its more accessible and not remote control ,nothing wrong with the gate valve ,just seized dried up no lub even the cable was sticking
  • Well yours is definitely not like the 2500's.

    I did cut the gray water pipe from the tank to the valve assembly. I inserted a rubber coupler so there is no stress and allows the valve to move a bit as I slid it into place. That helped the clearance problem.

    My black and gray valve assembly is a integral piece. I can unto the black valve from the assembly, remove the clamp on the gray and the whole assembly comes out.

    Not sure if this can apply to your installation.

    Jim
  • I removed the bottom plate today about 16 screws took about 1 hr and the valve is out,screws are hard to get to
    The valve was dried out jammed,used oil on the rmote cable and silcone on the valve assembly did also give it wd40 which on the net is a NONO.
    Anyhow its good to go back but that can be a problem its tight working clearance and 2 remote bolts to re-apply 38 inches away
    And i need to spread the pipes to get the valve back with 2 seals.
    we'll see tomorow
    I was surprised to get this far,it would also be nice if this could be lubbed some how ---cable and gate valve
    My valve has a 39 in remote operating cable
  • woodmn08 wrote:
    sorry about the model ,mine is the 30C1002
    and i am hoping there is no water tank to remove


    I did a search for you and the only thing I could find was this thread and post from 54suds. He just says his is a 99 3000. On his he had to remove the plate and the valves were easily accessible.

    https://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28052054/gotomsg/28052342.cfm#28052342



    The 2500 valves are easily removed and repaired. I too had to cut the gray water tubing from the tank to the valve to get the assembly out. I then used a rubber plumbing coupler and reducer to match sizes... Not a big deal.

    Jim
  • sorry about the model ,mine is the 30C1002
    and i am hoping there is no water tank to remove
  • woodmn08 wrote:
    Has anyone had experience in removing the bottom panel and repairing the remote operated sewage valve.
    Mine has been acting up and this year needs a fix or a lub job


    Which model?

    Mine is a 2500 9'6" mfg in 2000. I did mine, replaced the gray water valve. Not too bad of a job. Removing all those screws to remove the bottom plate was the worse... hahaaaa

    Jim
  • Mine on my NL was really sticky (still have scars to prove it). One day after dumping and flushing the tank I thought that I would try something. I took a can of WD40 and sprayed up into the pipe to soak the flapper then I opened it and did it again. I also lubricated the little slide attached to the handle. Almost pulled it off when I was done as I went to yank it open and it worked perfectly, scared me as it was so smooth. Has lasted a couple years since I did that and still works good.

    I have heard from someone that toilet paper can get jammed in there. One person said to look up there with a flashlight to see if anything is jammed. Fortunately I did not have to stick my head up there :E
  • It probably depends somewhat on what model you have. I replaced the black tank valve a few years ago after it would not fully close. I replaced it with an electrically activated valve which works great.

    The process is something like this: remove the cover from the step inside the camper. (I needed axcess from above and below to get old parts out and new parts in.). Remove the bottom panel. Remove the fresh water tank. From inside the camper, cut out the old valve. With some difficulty, fit the new valve and use ABS cement to glue it in. Remove the old manual valve activating hardware. Install the electrical wiring for the new valve. Test the new valve. Reinstall the fresh water tank, the bottom cover and insulation, and the step cover. Done

    I opted to install a new electrically operated valve because the old valve had a poorly designed operating mechanism and I only wanted to do this once.

    Ask any other specific questions.