city water connection

I had my pump pressure drop off because of a clogged screen filter.

Try the water source faucet as ready suggested then each of the TT faucets including the drain pipes for flow.

You could remove the check valve and just seal the opening with a cap when using on-board water.

You can remove the guts from a city water inlet by punching it out. I did that and then enlarged the hole a bit with a drill. I replaced it with a commercial grade brass check valve I got from a plumbing wholesaler and it has better flow.

Inline pressure regulators are quite restrictive and if you look at one you will see a small diameter hole. I installed a Watts 263A regulator which are good for 4 - 4.5 gpm. CG water pressure can in some instances be as high as around 200 psi. I replaced the water inlet with one made from brass and then installed hard pipe up to the regulator to prevent blowing anything apart. I also installed a pressure gauge ahead of the regulator which has a tell-tale needle. At some unknown CG, psi has been as high as 140. I have the regulator set at 60 psi.

I bought a 5/8" dia. high pressure Valterra hose to replace the standard 1/2" hose.

I did what I could to improve flow and reduce pressure drop not only for the faucets, shower and toilet, but for a 3-stage filtration setup I installed. (Filters can be quite restrictive, and more so when in series).

The only time we have a pressure and flow problem is when the CG supply is low. I've wondered about the possibility of a booster pump but don't know how well that would work.

RTQuig wrote:
I worked for a water utility. The water, according to the AWWA standard can be no lower than 20 psi. On the other hand, taking readings at hydrants near plants, we put out close to 110 psi. The lowest in our system was 55 psi. Believe it or not, your insurance company can raise or lower your policy cost if the pressure near your home does not fall into those guidelines. Every year I had to take a representative out and do fire flow tests for insurance purposes.

Everything you said is true

The sprinkler control gauge at my work usually shows about 85psi coming in. Due to the nature of our business and the size of the plant, the Fire department comes and inspects our system quite often, and also lets us know when our pressure is low when a main line nearby is busted or being worked on

I worked for a water utility. The water, according to the AWWA standard can be no lower than 20 psi. On the other hand, taking readings at hydrants near plants, we put out close to 110 psi. The lowest in our system was 55 psi. Believe it or not, your insurance company can raise or lower your policy cost if the pressure near your home does not fall into those guidelines. Every year I had to take a representative out and do fire flow tests for insurance purposes.

Fill tank and use pump........pump should supply at least 45# and 2.5 gpm flow

If pump pressure/flow is better than city water then check valve is problem

Is it possible you are confusing pressure with volume?

ok, don't.

kitchen, bathroom and shower. seems like it will build some pressure then as water is flowing slowly goes down. How about if I fill the tank and try? Will it show me anything?

Check valve failing restricting flow.

You can remove the cheap plastic junk inside city water connection.
(Check valve used to prevent backflow from pump out city water connection----3/4" PVC plug when using pump)

You can replace...install new city water connection

Water supply pressure can be low or high......even fluctuate so it's best to have an adjustable regulator set to 50#